Oil filter removal

[Ohio HD]

Sorry so cranky...I revised my post.

We're all getting cabin fever I think.   

[HogMike]

Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter 

I have a few different styles of wrenches for removing filters.
Depends on the model bike.
On the new cvo's there's a VR plug in the way along with other various parts . It's a tight fit to get it from the end but doable.
I have a smaller diameter filter on one of my bikes and have the gearwrench to fit that.
Sometimes the nut on k&n filters get stripped and you can't use the cap wrench style to get it off.
I think we have all had issues with them being over tightened at one tome or another.
I agree sometimes that the past mechanics probably used their 1/2" impact driver to install one!
Just my 2cents

[Tollbooth]

I use a strap wrench with a wrap of rough emery around the strap. The tighter the wrench gets, the more the sandpaper bites into the filter.

[kd]

Lot's of great suggestions here.  The best is to move the filter to a better (smarter) position.  There's no rocket science here.  Make it easy and cleaner.  The MOCO could do that easily but would lose out on all of the $ervicing dollar$ they get from frustrated owners that could otherwise do their own oil changes.

[Tynker]

The dipstick situation is resolved. It seems that when you drain the primary there's still oil on the engine oil dipstick.  I can't believe I did that. Maybe time for the old folks home. Oh well, the primary needed changing anyway.

Thanks for the tips on the filter. I don't think have a strap type wrench, but I'll check. I have plenty of time, since we're in for a week of rainy weather.

I have a metal oil filter removable tool(like a large socket) https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-65MM-14Flute-Oil-Filter-Cap-Wrench-Tool-07AAA-PLCA100-Fit-For-HONDA-ACURA/401602232861?hash=item5d815bc21d:g:RUMAAOSwcR9bo8VeI drilled a small hole in it and i put it on the filter,then use a small 1/8" sheet metal screw, through wrench and into the filter. Then using a long extension and ratchet the filter will come off, no problem.

[Hossamania]

Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter 

I like that idea!

[BJB]

Lot's of great suggestions here.  The best is to move the filter to a better (smarter) position.  There's no rocket science here.  Make it easy and cleaner.  The MOCO could do that easily but would lose out on all of the $ervicing dollar$ they get from frustrated owners that could otherwise do their own oil changes.

Absolutely.
I've done this on both my Dyna and Geezer Glide.

[Jim Bronson]

Jim has a 2015 TC touring bike. Most of those posted, including myself know that.

Thanks Ohio. Specifically a RK. I sometimes forget to list it. Sorry. I punched a hole near the bottom of the filter just to let the oil drain out if it and to avoid a bigger mess later. It doesn't look like channellocks will work, but I'll give it another try later before I punch holes and use the screwdriver method. Thanks all.

[rigidthumper]

Got a DA sander? One of those 6" sheets over the end of the filter will work, or if not, a 4X4 square of sandpaper, inside my oil filter wrench, usually does it.

[Jim Bronson]

Got a DA sander? One of those 6" sheets over the end of the filter will work, or if not, a 4X4 square of sandpaper, inside my oil filter wrench, usually does it.

I'll try that. Thanks.

[smoserx1]

This is what I use on my twin cam:

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-70-715-Bi-Directional-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000KKLK1I

However mine is very old and is very well made.  I have read the current ones are not so good.  Don't know, but the design makes the wrench bite into the filter as it turns and the wrench clears the crank position sensor.

[PoorUB]

Maybe I am more tolerant that others, but I have zero issues with where HD put the filter on the Twin Cam. It is the easiest oil filter to change on the motorcycles I own. You don't have to spend 10 minutes removing and replacing plastic body panels to get to it to change the oil and filter. Could it be easier, sure it could.

On the other hand my BMW the filter is fairly accessible after body panel removal, plus the recommended oil change is 6,000 miles, no primary, just the final drive and that interval is every other oil change, but it is wide open and easy. No three holes to change. Even with the body panel removal my BMW is the quickest motorcycle I have to service.

My Yamaha R1 needs panels removed, then the filter is hiding up and behind the exhaust pipes. Makes the Harley look easy!

[Jim Bronson]

Finally! I had to punch three sets of holes to break it loose, as it would only turn about 10° per hole pair without hitting something. I think I'll keep the mangled filter as a reminder to NEVER again let the dealer change my oil. Thanks HTT for the support.

[JW113]

Excellent! Proof that brute force and ignorance can overcome just about anything.


-JW

[kd]

Give it to the dealer's service manager. 

[Hossamania]

I would still recommend a steel strap wrench for future changes.

[76shuvlinoff]

This is what I use on my twin cam:

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-70-715-Bi-Directional-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000KKLK1I

However mine is very old and is very well made.  I have read the current ones are not so good.  Don't know, but the design makes the wrench bite into the filter as it turns and the wrench clears the crank position sensor.

That's what I have but mine's so old it was made in the US.   I also relocated the filter under the left passenger floorboard on my 12 Ultra EG and never regretted it.    IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.

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[hbkeith]

Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter 

I like that idea!

Yes , good idea

[kd]

76, so many poo poo the remote filter option.  That is until they do it and the wonder why they didn't do it sooner.     I am one so I know. 

[No Cents]

76, so many poo poo the remote filter option.  That is until they do it and the wonder why they didn't do it sooner.     I am one so I know. 

       100%
I have seen no down side to the remote filter...only pluses.   

[cbumdumb]

Of the four bikes I had in the last two years only one has been touched by a dealership . I will know soon enough whether the local dealership tech knew his rear end from a hole in the ground.


Words chosen carefully not to have post changed with potty mouth 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

   IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.

I agree... the flats on the nut are factory rounded off and tapered to guarantee a slip out of the socket. Only filter I even had to surgically remove was a K&N.... never again.

[Boe Cole]

Small point to consider, if the bike has an oil cooler, getting the old filter off after it was on so tight, may cause the cooler to rotate somewhat and cause a leak.  Just something to watch for.

[chaos901]

I think I have one of just about every option shown here.  Use the Rivco box wrench mostly, sometimes the cap socket, have had to use a screwdriver on a friend's bike.  Have also used some of the filters that have a hex head installed on them for the purpose.

[Jim Bronson]

   IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.

I agree... the flats on the nut are factory rounded off and tapered to guarantee a slip out of the socket. Only filter I even had to surgically remove was a K&N.... never again.

I've never had a problem removing a K&N filter as long as I use a 17mm socket. I only tighten the filter about 1/2 turn after it seats, and I've never had a leak. Also, the ones I use have small holes in two opposite flats of the nut, so I could use a small allen wrench with a piece of pipe for leverage. I'm hoping I won't ever need to do that. The trick is to not over-tighten.