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FLHS 2-1 Muffler replacement

Started by MortGarson, April 06, 2020, 12:53:44 AM

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MortGarson

I have a 2-1 system with a huge mack truck muffler, that is really loud and sounds a wee bit "Potty mouth". I have been thinking of grabbing a suppertrapp muffler with the disks, and getting a sheetmetal bloke to knock up an adapter to connect them. Anybody done that.
Cheers Glenn

MortGarson


thumper 823

Opinions and onion layers.
Truly it depends on your goals .
If you know not what your AFR is/ was, or if it is a mostly stock engine   (8.5 CR)  bolt anything you want on as it will not make too much difference.
Cones, torq tubes,  baffles, etc are all for cam compromises and only your dyno results will tell you what to do..

D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

MortGarson

It does have an EV3 in it and a more aggressive squish gap

Deye76

The ST muffler for a bagger system is shorter than the one you have, as the ST system primary pipes merge into the collector under the passenger board, so it likely won't reach the saddlebag mounting point, unless yours is different and doesn't mount there.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

Burnout

I hoard old exhaust and will buy some junk exhaust at the swap meets that I cut up to build custom pipes.

Is that an empty collector? We used to call those "Boom Tubes". If so,
I'd look at a simple baffle inside that, and/or maybe cut off the turnout and put an inverted 45° cone at the end.
A 45° cone at the exit tones it down and gets rid of the crackle like echo of a large collector, make the exit hole just slightly larger than a header pipe.

I like long tapered megaphones as they block reversion without creating back pressure.
A sound wave will not travel back into the motor as it gets squeezed by the cone.
The inlet to the megaphone (the merge of the two header pipes) should be just slightly larger than the header pipe so it creates a venturi that amplifies the scavenging effect.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

MortGarson

It does have a muffler inside. Unlike my SE tapered turbos on my sportster this has a hole that goes straight through. The sportster (which sounds great and pulls like a train) has the flow blocked by pipes with holes in them. You cant stick a wire up them. I might experiment with the reversed cone idea

vafatboy1

I bought a generic Stainless Steel Supertrapp muffler from Summit Racing (for about $130.00 or so 8 years ago) Had a muffler to saddlebags mount welded on, adapter made for muffler to header and married it up to a FatCat header.

Burnout

Quote from: MortGarson on April 06, 2020, 02:55:29 PM
this has a hole that goes straight through.

Yeah I've had pipes like that, but not for long, same as straight pipes.

QuoteI might experiment with the reversed cone idea

You might have to cut off the turn out to do something with that. Since it is straight through you probably should pull out whatever is in there.
Then make your baffle in the endcap?
A well perforated 1 7/8 pipe, about 2/3rds the length of the muffler (with the end closed off) mounted to an endcap of some type in the housing.
You might be able to use the core that is in the muffler now as it is likely perforated, just shorten it by 1/3 and close the inside end.
Put 3 "fingers" on the baffle to support it inside the housing.
This gets rid of the straight through path, but creates very little low pressure flow restriction.
Turning the flow to go through the baffle will calm it down considerably, it will take out the Crackle and make it Woof without hurting top end.
This will probably help lower RPM torque as well.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

MortGarson

Thank you for the detailed information. It will give me something to do during the lockdown.