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EV27 ok at 9.9 static compression?

Started by Adam76, April 09, 2020, 05:52:52 AM

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Adam76

Quote from: JW113 on April 10, 2020, 08:57:42 AM
:agree:

Adam I looked through your prior posts and maybe I missed it, but I did not see that you stated what model bike this is. If it is rubber mount (FL, FXR, Dyna), then no worries about high rpm cams. If you are working on a rigid mount softail, my advice would be to stick to the low/mid rpm torque cams. That is, unless you like breaking chassis bolts and parts falling off...

-JW
Sorry JW, is a 1996 heritage softail.  Not a light bike by any means, but not a touring bike either.  Low and midrange is what I'm looking for, just trying to get the best package together if I'm going to be pulling the engine down for pistons and some head work..... only want to do it once, my pockets aren't deep 😁

Adam76

April 10, 2020, 05:37:39 PM #51 Last Edit: April 10, 2020, 06:05:13 PM by Adam76
Quote from: Hossamania on April 10, 2020, 08:47:44 AM
If you do not have concrete plans for the future, then build it properly now.
Horsepower is in the heads. Pick your cam, set the heads for it.
Your riding style has me recommending the 27, heads to match.


If I'm ONLY doing the heads to match the 27 cam,  what exactly do you suggest that headwork includes?

Thank you  😆

Adam76

April 10, 2020, 05:39:26 PM #52 Last Edit: April 10, 2020, 05:44:20 PM by Adam76
Deleted

Adam76

Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 08:03:52 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 07:47:14 AM
Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 07:25:41 AM
An EV27 with the proper compression is a better choice than a 46 without added compression. I have done a bunch of EV27 build heads by just milling .060 and they use a cometiic .030 or the blue james gaskets.
Thanks HD, I agree the 27 is tree better choice set up correctly.
I'd rather not take .060 of the heads because then I'm stock with small combustion chambered heads ruling out possible future builds?

I'm thinking that I could possibly get away with just the 27 cam, dropping in a 10.1 Wiseco piston and leaving everything else virtually stock except for the. 030 HG and new base gaskets..... NO head work, NO cc'ing heads, No zero decking jugs...

Is this a risky option?  Or something that it or has been done hundreds of times?

Thank you

Yes by all means but use the KB920C piston
Sorry, I misunderstood your reply. So you're suggesting that if all I'm going to do to support the ev27 cam is simply drop in a high compression piston and leave the heads stock and deck height at whatever it ends up being,  I should go with the KB 9.5 rather that the Wiseco 10.1  ?
Thank you

Arseclown

Mate have you considered just changing the cam, cam bearing (and pushrods with adjustables if easier and/or required) and nothing else. Less money and stuffing about for a nice little bump in performance.

I don't know what work has been done to my evo and happy not to open it up to look but mine goes really well as is for me and from roll on acceleration tests with a mate who had some work done to his evo which is also much younger than mine mine goes noticeably better.

Adam76

Quote from: Arseclown on April 10, 2020, 06:05:20 PM
Mate have you considered just changing the cam, cam bearing (and pushrods with adjustables if easier and/or required) and nothing else. Less money and stuffing about for a nice little bump in performance.

I don't know what work has been done to my evo and happy not to open it up to look but mine goes really well as is for me and from roll on acceleration tests with a mate who had some work done to his evo which is also much younger than mine mine goes noticeably better.
Hey mate, yes I had considered that, but always keep hearing about how much better tne evo motors go with a bit more compression. Especially when a cam is instated.

I've got a mate with two evos, one had the 27 cam installed and no other mods. And the second has recently been rebuilt also had the ev27 in it but in the rebuild he got some 9.5 KB pistons put in and he reckons three is a very significant difference between the two.....

What is your set up exactly? 
Cheers

Arseclown

April 10, 2020, 06:39:56 PM #56 Last Edit: April 10, 2020, 06:53:14 PM by Arseclown
Fair enough I understand. I don't have a lot of evo experience and know much more about twin cams.

Bought my evo on a whim and sight unseen when I was living overseas. I wanted a bike to ride when I was home on holidays. Mate had a 1996 evo bad boy springer and checked out this 1989 softail springer and he said it was better than his in every way despite mods to his.  Funnily enough his bad boy springer came from Perth and was a well looked after club bike. Mate and I are on the east coast though.

So bought it. It was imported from the USA about 6 years ago or so. Had all the import paperwork and was complied and registered here. Has 20k miles on it and the only non stock part about it was the dash surround. Still has oem headers. All ive changed is handle bars to mini apes and indicator lenses. It has slash cut mufflers which I'm gonna change over to tapered turbo mufflers. It has the original air cleaner cover but a k&n filter inside. Unsure if it's had a cam change or not but it goes really well. I haven't inspected the carb but can only presume it likely had jet changes because it runs so well with the stage 1 changes.

I think 1989 was the first year for the cv carb. And the oem camshaft used in later evo engines were changed and inferior, perhaps for emissions.

It's for sale on gumtree at the moment if you want to look. Don't really want to sell it but I don't have space for all my toys. I reckon it might take a while to sell in these times because lots of people doing it tough right now. I'm lucky I've still got work and money coming in as many don't.


Adam76

Yeah, tough times right now for all....

I think I'm going with most people's advice and not go too crazy and complicated.

I'm going to put the ev27 in it and swap out the pistons to 9.5 comp to get the best out of the motive and the cam and call it a day. Probably the most bang for the buck and gave a very nice streetable easy to ride bike.

Arseclown

Sounds good Adam. Good luck doing the work and hope it comes out ok. Guys here are so knowledgeable and helpful as long as you take the differences with our climate and fuel into account which probably aren't gonna matter much with your more basic plan now. I'm sure you'll keep us all updated on the work and outcome. All the best.

Adam76

Quote from: Arseclown on April 10, 2020, 06:49:09 PM
Sounds good Adam. Good luck doing the work and hope it comes out ok. Guys here are so knowledgeable and helpful as long as you take the differences with our climate and fuel into account which probably aren't gonna matter much with your more basic plan now. I'm sure you'll keep us all updated on the work and outcome. All the best.
👍👍

thumper 823

We want to spend your money!
As I said it is a very slippery slope
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

cheech

Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 06:45:49 PM

I think I'm going with most people's advice and not go too crazy and complicated.

I'm going to put the ev27 in it and swap out the pistons to 9.5 comp to get the best out of the motive and the cam and call it a day. Probably the most bang for the buck and gave a very nice streetable easy to ride bike.
IMHO At the end of the day, you do this, you'll have a good strong running tolerant bike, Your butt will be satisfied, anything above and beyond such as head work or whatnot might net some more numbers on the dyno.
You do have to draw the line either with budget or just simply saying this is good enough.

hbkeith

Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 06:45:49 PM
Yeah, tough times right now for all....

I think I'm going with most people's advice and not go too crazy and complicated.

I'm going to put the ev27 in it and swap out the pistons to 9.5 comp to get the best out of the motive and the cam and call it a day. Probably the most bang for the buck and gave a very nice streetable easy to ride bike.
JMHO , the best bang for buck is deck the heads ,have them ported , leave the stock 200000 mile pistons in the bike , EV27

Adam76

April 11, 2020, 06:15:53 AM #63 Last Edit: April 11, 2020, 06:51:22 AM by Adam76
Hi, thanks.
Yes decking and porting the heads is definitely a tried and true method that gets good results.
Exactly what kind of headwork would be done to compliment this cam only upgrade with the sick pistons??
Thanks.
I guess it's always something l could add in later stage down the track.

Don D

Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 05:42:58 PM
Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 08:03:52 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 07:47:14 AM
Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 07:25:41 AM
An EV27 with the proper compression is a better choice than a 46 without added compression. I have done a bunch of EV27 build heads by just milling .060 and they use a cometiic .030 or the blue james gaskets.
Thanks HD, I agree the 27 is tree better choice set up correctly.
I'd rather not take .060 of the heads because then I'm stock with small combustion chambered heads ruling out possible future builds?

I'm thinking that I could possibly get away with just the 27 cam, dropping in a 10.1 Wiseco piston and leaving everything else virtually stock except for the. 030 HG and new base gaskets..... NO head work, NO cc'ing heads, No zero decking jugs...

Is this a risky option?  Or something that it or has been done hundreds of times?

Thank you

Yes by all means but use the KB920C piston
Sorry, I misunderstood your reply. So you're suggesting that if all I'm going to do to support the ev27 cam is simply drop in a high compression piston and leave the heads stock and deck height at whatever it ends up being,  I should go with the KB 9.5 rather that the Wiseco 10.1  ?
Thank you
I prefer the KB pistons and their hastings rings in that motor. Your wiseco will be fine however.
9.5 is a good number for the EV27. Headwork? Well all I typically do on those is a good valve job on the Serdi, the guides are usually not worn, and fix the ridge under the intake seats and a little work on the short turn. This is a $275 job I call a "Blueprint" and a little more if I CC the heads and/or replace the guides. They make 80hp and 90tq with a strong torque rise every time even with a stock CV rejetted. An adjustable ignition is a big bonus such as the Daytona Twin Tec 1005. Single fire with a 2,5 curve to start. No need for the VOES.

Adam76

Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 11, 2020, 06:53:14 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 05:42:58 PM
Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 08:03:52 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on April 10, 2020, 07:47:14 AM
Quote from: HD Street Performance on April 10, 2020, 07:25:41 AM
An EV27 with the proper compression is a better choice than a 46 without added compression. I have done a bunch of EV27 build heads by just milling .060 and they use a cometiic .030 or the blue james gaskets.
Thanks HD, I agree the 27 is tree better choice set up correctly.
I'd rather not take .060 of the heads because then I'm stock with small combustion chambered heads ruling out possible future builds?

I'm thinking that I could possibly get away with just the 27 cam, dropping in a 10.1 Wiseco piston and leaving everything else virtually stock except for the. 030 HG and new base gaskets..... NO head work, NO cc'ing heads, No zero decking jugs...

Is this a risky option?  Or something that it or has been done hundreds of times?

Thank you

Yes by all means but use the KB920C piston
Sorry, I misunderstood your reply. So you're suggesting that if all I'm going to do to support the ev27 cam is simply drop in a high compression piston and leave the heads stock and deck height at whatever it ends up being,  I should go with the KB 9.5 rather that the Wiseco 10.1  ?
Thank you
I prefer the KB pistons and their hastings rings in that motor. Your wiseco will be fine however.
9.5 is a good number for the EV27. Headwork? Well all I typically do on those is a good valve job on the Serdi, the guides are usually not worn, and fix the ridge under the intake seats and a little work on the short turn. This is a $275 job I call a "Blueprint" and a little more if I CC the heads and/or replace the guides. They make 80hp and 90tq with a strong torque rise every time even with a stock CV rejetted. An adjustable ignition is a big bonus such as the Daytona Twin Tec 1005. Single fire with a 2,5 curve to start. No need for the VOES.
Thanks HD, that's great to know -- I wish you were around the corner from me to drop my heads off for some work.

I do have the programmable Dyna 2000 ignition and coil so that will help. But l would definitely go for the $275 headwork if l had the option. The best head porter I know is 3000 kms away and freight is a big cost in the equation....

Cheers and happy Easter all.

thumper 823

Unshroud your exhaust valves, move the seats up, narrow them, deburr the ports, take about 0.50 to.70 of the heads. (virgin)
But remember performance mods is linear to overhaul schedule.
Notin is for free.
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

Don D

Everything you describe I do at the price I stated. It is nothing special, just a machine form tool valve job and top cut on the exhaust opens the wall up to unschroud the valve. Cutter looks similar to the one I attached but not the exact same.
The OP wants to use pistons instead of milling, OK fine too, it is a small dome and works well.

Adam76

Thanks guys, if l can find some one local to do the basic headwork that you are describing l will seriously look into it. Nothing fancy, just a clean up while the heads are off 😁

thumper 823

You can buy hard seat stuff used pretty cheaply here as fewer and fewer people do it.
Not sure about there..
A pilot, stone facer a few stones and the motor.
Prolly less than 300 bucks here.
A valve facer is almost not necessary anymore but I like to check the face even with new valves, plus I don't run 45 deg seats .
I refuse to use used valves as they live in proverbial hell.
A good machine if you look hard can be had for under 600 here.
These old Sioux machines may not be as nice as 200K dollar machine but it has worked for me for 50 years .
I have gradually moved up from dry stones to wet.
I started with dry when i was in my 20s   but about 30 years ago switched to the oil bath.
As I said it is all a slippery slope.
Once you take that step ....
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

Hossamania

I don't think Adam is looking to buy a machine and start working on heads...
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Don D

As far as quality seats, valves and even the guides on most year evos are very high quality. If the margin is sufficient and stems not worn I have no issue grinding them on my Sunnen VR6500. I was told the exhaust valves are Inconel but have not verified that.

JW113

Adam, just my 2 cents. If I read this correctly, you have a softail that's just a reliable daily rider, and you want a little more kick when you twist the wick, rarely taken above 4500rpm. Point A to Point B with a little fun in between. This pretty much describes my '92 softail. Mine is also 9.5:1 done via 50 thou off the heads, using a Crane 300-2B cam which is more or less like an Andrews EV-13. No fancy port work, if you are not going to be reving it up, it doesn't need it. Not saying it will hurt, but it doesn't really add anything either. A HP or two, in the noise, unnoticeable in the real world. I say listen to your new Aussie pal Arseclown, keep it basic, ride it and have fun.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

thumper 823

HEY!
We want to spend his money!  LOL
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

Hossamania

Well we had him up to a $3500 top end on an Evo!
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.