Shift shaft o-ring 11117.

[RedFXR2]

1999 Evo.   Every 3-4 years or so I replace the shift shaft seal (HD o-ring 11117) when it starts leaking.  And every time I buy several 11117 o-rings from the dealer because it seems to take several tries before finally I get one to seal....and then it's good for several years again.  Inconsistent HD product, I guess.  Several years go I replaced my inspection cover thinking something was wrong with the bore where the o-ring seats (there was nothing evident but I did it anyway).  Nothing changed with the new cover.

I wonder about all those o-rings at the hardware store.  Could one of those be ever so slightly fatter so as to seal my shaft on the first try?  Or maybe one of the aftermarket gasket companies (Cometic?) makes a better version?  Or something else?  Anybody ever discover a better solution?  Thanks.

[JW113]

Are bushings or shifter shaft worn to the point they allow too much axial movement, squishing the o-rings?

-JW

[RedFXR2]

Are bushings or shifter shaft worn to the point they allow too much axial movement, squishing the o-rings?

-JW

Not that I can tell.  I would think that if that was true, I couldn't get one to seal at all.  Or at least, that they wouldn't last as long as they do, once I find a good one.

[Hybredhog]

  those Orings on the black plastic shaft tube are odd balls size wise, and the 11117 is pretty much what fits. But because they are so small diameter, they don't have a lot of wall tension and do wear out fast. If a primary is pressurizing, in those FXR's that is the weak point, so check the vent hose. You could also turn in the grooves of the shaft tube for bigger OD orings (or more), for more wall tension. Fxr's shifter arrangement do have a tendency to vibrate & bounce a lot, so some wave washers could help too. Otherwise it is kind of the nature of the beast,

[Deye76]

 I think the plastic tubes lose shape over time. I replaced that with a aluminum tube which comes with o-rings, no leaks in 4 years. You can get  one here, https://www.fxrdivision.com/fxr. Look under FXR parts. N-A Performance Aluminum FXR/Dyna Shifter Tubes.

Note: All the OE plastic seem to be a little different in length, every one I measured (only 3 LOL)  was different. The alum tube I got was about 3/8" longer on the back side where it fits into the recess in the inner primary. Easily turned down to the length I needed.

[turboprop]

Not mentioned yet is the alignment of the outer o-ring to the cover. The stack height of the inspection cover varies depending on the thickness of the gasket used between the inner and out primary case and the gasket used between the the outer primary case and the inspection cover. Irrelevant of label on the package, these gaskets come in two thicknesses. There is the foam covered metal gaskets and the fiber gaskets. The fiber type is much thicker than the metal type. The individual variances in the tube, inner and outer covers, and the inspection covers will dictate which combination puts the o-ring inside the bore.

My red FXR requires one thin and one thick gasket. Not by design but it currently has a thin metal type between the two cases and a thick fiber gasket between the outer case and the inspection cover.

My blue FXR seems to be alright with two thin gaskets.

The OP should probably look at where that o-ring on the shifter tube is aligning with the cover and adjust if needed. 

[RedFXR2]

I think the plastic tubes lose shape over time. I replaced that with a aluminum tube which comes with o-rings, no leaks in 4 years. You can get  one here, https://www.fxrdivision.com/fxr. Look under FXR parts. N-A Performance Aluminum FXR/Dyna Shifter Tubes.

Hmmm.  Compressor??   Anyway, I checked FXRdivision but they say "sold out'.  However, a company called Vulcanworks offers the same thing that looks like a good idea.  I'm just trying to avoid taking the primary apart.  Next time I go in there, I might replace the plastic sleeve with one of theirs.

Not mentioned yet is the alignment of the outer o-ring to the cover. The stack height of the inspection cover varies depending on the thickness of the gasket used between the inner and out primary case and the gasket used between the the outer primary case and the inspection cover. Irrelevant of label on the package, these gaskets come in two thicknesses. There is the foam covered metal gaskets and the fiber gaskets. The fiber type is much thicker than the metal type. The individual variances in the tube, inner and outer covers, and the inspection covers will dictate which combination puts the o-ring inside the bore.

My red FXR requires one thin and one thick gasket. Not by design but it currently has a thin metal type between the two cases and a thick fiber gasket between the outer case and the inspection cover.

My blue FXR seems to be alright with two thin gaskets.

Turbo:  Good idea.  I presently have Cometic in both places.  I've checked where this makes the o-ring fall within the bore on the inspection cover and there should be no issues.  Well within the flat diameter bore walls.  I am presently narrowing down aftermarket o-rings of nearly identical sizes but with very slightly fatter cross sections.  Either silicon or Viton instead of (whatever) rubber the HD ones are made of.  I'm thinking that if one of these can squish more, therefore putting more material between the plastic and the bore, and hopefully retaining rebound qualities against the bore, then my problem may be solved.  I'll let everyone know how my experiment turns out.

[yankee dog]

Remove the old O-ring. Clean the surfaces the O-ring comes in contact with and the recess the O-ring fits into.

Apply thin a layer of this on the O-ring:

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/

Apply it to the O-ring, the recess the O-ring fits onto, and the surface that the O-ring presses against. Let sit for a few minutes then reassemble. It never sets up, it stay tacky, it seals O-rings, threads, and minor imperfections.

It is cleaned up with brake clean. It is not a silicone sealer. It is not a gasket maker, it is a gasket dressing. I have used it on the exact same setup you have on my bike for 6 years now. Same O-ring for 6 years, and primary and inner primary have been removed multiple times using those very same O-rings with no leaks, ever.

Can get it at any auto chain store for about 8 buck.

[Deye76]

RedFXR2, one and the same.

[RedFXR2]

Update:  Hoping maybe this will save somebody else some hassle.

I got close dimensionally with a silicon O-ring but it was no improvement.  Plus, it had some rather low limits on temperature tolerance.  But my problem wasn't with the o-ring, anyway.  I was with the bore in the inspection cover that hosts the shift shaft sleeve.

Yankee dog:  I was going to try Hylomar or even high-temp RTV but I wanted to make sure I had to.  I've had occasion to replace this o-ring in the past but it's never been a problem until now.

I kept changed the leaking, new o-rings, HD and Cometic, and each time discovered that the o-ring was damaged.  A very small piece had been almost surgically cut off of the outside diameter and was hanging loose.  At first I blamed either a cheap O-ring, or myself for not being gentle enough with installation.  Close inspection of my inspection cover revealed two things.  First, these things have a ramp, or funnel type area leading up to the cylindrical bore where the o-ring sits.  On mine, there seemed to be a rather sharp angle/edge between the slanted surface and the the cylindrical bore.  After that, the first small bit of the cylindrical bore had failing chrome.  Not peeling, but bubbling a tiny bit and a few areas of copper showing through where the chrome was gone.  Enough to feel with my finger.  The cylinder area also had some traces of rubber ground into the metal.  I used a domed screwdriver handle wrapped in fine sandpaper to gently shape a more gradual transition from the ramp to the cylinder.  Then 0000 steel wool and my finger to gently finish that area plus smooth out the slightly rough weakening chrome surface in the bore and remove the rubber traces.  Much smoother so I tried again.  New 11117 O-ring, moistened with motor oil, moisten the inside of the cylinder area of the inspection cover, then G-E-N-T-L-Y ease the inspection cover on over the O-ring and shift shaft sleeve.  It went on easier and smoother by feel.  Test ride today indicates no leaks.

Hopefully this will save somebody some headaches.

[Deye76]

  Good deal.