Rebuild Bottom End 1970s 74in Shovelhead

[tinkering]

Calgary, Canada
1976 FLH 74CID
Whole bike in pieces.

I'm starting with the bottom end now. I was thinking about doing the bearings etc. and true and balance myself, unless I can't find the time. I can't remember if it was line bored last time or not. Is line boring absolutely required? What about all the HD motors that went together before we had access to all that?

[Ohio HD]

We've always had the tools to line hone the pinion bearing race. Harley has used this method as long as there have been V-Twins. I've never replaced a set of bearings without first honing the race round, and in line with the Timken bore. Then see what oversize rollers are needed.


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[tinkering]

I was thinking about the old prairie dogs stuck on the farm in the old days who didn't have any of those tools. How much is the honer etc? I would like to study up on the line bore process. Do you know if there is a good article or YouTube video that lays it all out nice? I don't want to bother you with that much time.
Thanks

[tinkering]

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[Ohio HD]

Well, to be honest, how that set of wheels looks, tells me the race should probably be replaced. I would bet it's rusted and pitted. The pinion rollers won't have much life if they're installed in a poor environment.

The factory service manuals go into detail on line honing, it's not very difficult to do. If you don't want to buy the tool, take it to some one who has one, after you have a new pinion shaft, sprocket shaft and crank pin in the cleaned up flywheels. The rods will need to be reconditioned as well. If you don't have access to the tools to precisely measure, and to hone the races (rods and pinion) I'd honestly take it to one that does. 

[Ohio HD]

Also 1970 had some issues with the pinion and sprocket shaft tapers in the flywheels. Not allowing a good truing of the wheels. Sometimes lapping the tapers fixed that, sometimes new wheels were needed.

[fbn ent]

Well, to be honest, how that set of wheels looks, tells me the race should probably be replaced. I would bet it's rusted and pitted. The pinion rollers won't have much life if they're installed in a poor environment.

The factory service manuals go into detail on line honing, it's not very difficult to do. If you don't want to buy the tool, take it to some one who has one, after you have a new pinion shaft, sprocket shaft and crank pin in the cleaned up flywheels. The rods will need to be reconditioned as well. If you don't have access to the tools to precisely measure, and to hone the races (rods and pinion) I'd honestly take it to one that does.

   No tools + no experience = a problematic engine needing a teardown. Experience in 5 piece cranks is a necessity. I'd get a time tested friend or shop to do the cases/crank....

[Hybredhog]

   From what I'm seeing, your going to be way out of time, money & patience if you take that on yourself. You'd probably save money by just buying a new S&S crank (about $1200), as you'll need shafts, probably rods, bearings & bushing, ect.... Another issue could be the cases, the casted in races need to be checked for looseness let alone honing, do I hear Darkhorse calling. With something that rusty, odds are virtually every steel part in that motor is toast, and that doesn't even address aluminum fatigue. I'd be taking a glance at a  create engine just to keep things in prospective. But if your stubborn, and or have deep pockets, have fun.

[JW113]

 

Especially about the case insert. My shop guy says he can't remember working on an old Shovelhead that didn't have the insert loose in the case. Saw a cool article by a guy that installs a Timken conversion for Twin Cams into Shovelheads to fix that problem.

-JW

[Buglet]

   If you want a good job find some one with the Sunnen set up to do the cases. There's no to many shops the in know of that of that has the Sunnen set up.

[tinkering]

Well, to be honest, how that set of wheels looks, tells me the race should probably be replaced. I would bet it's rusted and pitted. The pinion rollers won't have much life if they're installed in a poor environment.

The factory service manuals go into detail on line honing, it's not very difficult to do. If you don't want to buy the tool, take it to some one who has one, after you have a new pinion shaft, sprocket shaft and crank pin in the cleaned up flywheels. The rods will need to be reconditioned as well. If you don't have access to the tools to precisely measure, and to hone the races (rods and pinion) I'd honestly take it to one that does.

I have the shop manual. I was expecting to replace all or most of the bearings, races, and bushings etc.. I never thought of the shafts needing it too but all of them would be rusty too I would agree.

I have some of the tools, dial guages and micrometers etc. but it will boil down to whether I feel like I have more time or money. Buying the rest of the tools will all add up too. I would like to do it myself but weigh that against the extra work. I will need to find a good builder that's close to home preferably (Calgary). I'll see what the damages would be. Thanks

[tinkering]

Also 1970 had some issues with the pinion and sprocket shaft tapers in the flywheels. Not allowing a good truing of the wheels. Sometimes lapping the tapers fixed that, sometimes new wheels were needed.

The cases were from a 1972 I think. The rest was from 1976. I could handle all this stuff but the tiiiiime.

[tinkering]

Well, to be honest, how that set of wheels looks, tells me the race should probably be replaced. I would bet it's rusted and pitted. The pinion rollers won't have much life if they're installed in a poor environment.

The factory service manuals go into detail on line honing, it's not very difficult to do. If you don't want to buy the tool, take it to some one who has one, after you have a new pinion shaft, sprocket shaft and crank pin in the cleaned up flywheels. The rods will need to be reconditioned as well. If you don't have access to the tools to precisely measure, and to hone the races (rods and pinion) I'd honestly take it to one that does.

   No tools + no experience = a problematic engine needing a teardown. Experience in 5 piece cranks is a necessity. I'd get a time tested friend or shop to do the cases/crank....

I'm a journeyman motor mechanic (not telling you I am the best) 63 years young. I've got a bunch of tools but not so many HD specialized tools. I put this motor (the whole bike) together the first time 30 years ago. I wouldn't get in a hurry and do a bunch of things without plenty of thought and discussion.

[tinkering]

Skimming through the motor section of the manual I am reminded of all the time and expense it will be to do it myself. Today? I am leaning on finding a shop. I don't know where to find my time tested HD friend anymore.

[tinkering]

Especially about the case insert. My shop guy says he can't remember working on an old Shovelhead that didn't have the insert loose in the case. Saw a cool article by a guy that installs a Timken conversion for Twin Cams into Shovelheads to fix that problem.

-JW

Know where a guy could start looking for that article?

[tinkering]

   From what I'm seeing, your going to be way out of time, money & patience if you take that on yourself. You'd probably save money by just buying a new S&S crank (about $1200), as you'll need shafts, probably rods, bearings & bushing, ect.... Another issue could be the cases, the casted in races need to be checked for looseness let alone honing, do I hear Darkhorse calling. With something that rusty, odds are virtually every steel part in that motor is toast, and that doesn't even address aluminum fatigue. I'd be taking a glance at a  create engine just to keep things in prospective. But if your stubborn, and or have deep pockets, have fun.

I hear you.
I'll do as much of it as I can without being rediculous. Do you know any good shops in Calgary? I know of a good builder in Strathmore, Sammich Sycles, but that is a heck of a drive from here. Where do you order S&S cranks?
Thanks

[fbn ent]

That's jeffscycle...he's in Montana. I'll see who I remember in the South of the Province...

[tinkering]

That's jeffscycle...he's in Montana. I'll see who I remember in the South of the Province...

Hi Hinton! I think I got that straightened out now. Apologies all around for that. Do you know any good shops in Calgary? I know of a good builder in Strathmore, Sammich Sycles, but that is a heck of a drive from here.
Thanks

[FXDBI]

That's jeffscycle...he's in Montana. I'll see who I remember in the South of the Province...

Hi Hinton! I think I got that straightened out now. Apologies all around for that. Do you know any good shops in Calgary? I know of a good builder in Strathmore, Sammich Sycles, but that is a heck of a drive from here.
Thanks

Welsh Cycles in Edmonton pretty sure George done a shovelhead or 2 he has been around long enough.  Bob

[fbn ent]

Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.

[FXDBI]

Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.

If you can get him to do your shovelhead engine he is the guy. Been years since I worked with him at Sulzer. The man is a awesome machinist and was set up to build engines at home.  Bob

[fbn ent]

    He's MY man!!!

[tinkering]

Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.

I think I've heard of Ray Lazlo. I would like somebody in Calgary though. In case in need to get back and forth.

[tinkering]

Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.

Too bad he's not in Calgary. Thanks though.

[tinkering]

Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.

If you can get him to do your shovelhead engine he is the guy. Been years since I worked with him at Sulzer. The man is a awesome machinist and was set up to build engines at home.  Bob

What is Sulzer? I might wind up seeing if I can find him but I will try Sammich Sycles in Calgary first. Thanks