April 18, 2024, 07:09:11 PM

News:

For advertising inquiries or help with registration or other issues, you may contact us by email at help@harleytechtalk.com


clutch

Started by david lee, May 11, 2020, 03:10:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

david lee

a mate said he woulld just replace the fibre plates instead of cleaning them.any thoughts.and cleaning process what would a set of stock plates cost thanks

guppymech

I'm using Alto Red Eagle fibers, made in USA.  They work good and don't shed metallic debris like the Barnett plates I had.
'84 FXE, '02 883R

kd

It's so easy to spend someone else's money.  We do it here all the time.  :hyst:

IMO clean the fibers and steels in solvent. Tape a sheet of 400 on a sheet of glass and give the steels a figure 8 rub down.  Inspect them for signs of warpage by the de-glazing  marks and damaged dogs.  Replace if not true or damaged.  Do the same to the fibers being careful to just deglaze. Keep the paper clean and not clogged with dust. If the fiber pads look OK and the dogs are not deformed too bad soak them in some AT oil for a bit and reassemble. 

While it's apart check the basket and hub for wear from the dogs on the steels and fibers too.  Sometimes a light touch-up on flared edges of the basket or disc dogs with a fine file will allow the plates to slide better and the clutch release is better.
KD

Racepres

Quote from: kd on May 11, 2020, 08:15:13 PM
It's so easy to spend someone else's money.  We do it here all the time.  :hyst:

IMO clean the fibers and steels in solvent. Tape a sheet of 400 on a sheet of glass and give the steels a figure 8 rub down.  Inspect them for signs of warpage by the de-glazing  marks and damaged dogs.  Replace if not true or damaged.  Do the same to the fibers being careful to just deglaze. Keep the paper clean and not clogged with dust. If the fiber pads look OK and the dogs are not deformed too bad soak them in some AT oil for a bit and reassemble. 

While it's apart check the basket and hub for wear from the dogs on the steels and fibers too.  Sometimes a light touch-up on flared edges of the basket or disc dogs with a fine file will allow the plates to slide better and the clutch release is better.
I haven't bought Clutches in Years... I like the above method... except for Shovelhead clutch... figure 8's on the concrete floor, and No Oil.. Shovels are designed as a dry Clutch, and I find that oil contamination causes problems..

kd

I used to peen a bit of the oval out of the holes in the clutch fibers of the old style clutch. Sometimes it was worthwhile to replace the studs when the got grooved up too.  I kinda miss the jingle of a loose dry clutch at idle with the clutch in.
KD

Racepres

Quote from: kd on May 11, 2020, 08:36:52 PM
I used to peen a bit of the oval out of the holes in the clutch fibers of the old style clutch. Sometimes it was worthwhile to replace the studs when the got grooved up too.  I kinda miss the jingle of a loose dry clutch at idle with the clutch in.

Me too... why I like a Belt... I have done my share of "pin replacement" on that old Bugger... got one waiting for "service" right now!! Grooved pretty badly..

Reddog74usa

I went Rivera- Pro Clutch and never looked back. IMHO one of the best upgrades you can do to a Shovel.
RIDE IT LIKE YA STOLE IT

Hybredhog

Quote from: Reddog74usa on May 12, 2020, 09:14:49 AM
I went Rivera- Pro Clutch and never looked back. IMHO one of the best upgrades you can do to a Shovel.

:up: :up:  But I'm not to sure of Rivera's longevity, they've been having some problem. But Alto & Barnett are make replacement plates, so that should get you to your grave. :embarrassed:
'01 FXDXT, '99 FXDL/XRD, '76 FLH

JW113

If my stock clutch didn't work perfectly, which it does, I'd give this a shot:

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/630-407/sifton-diaphragm-clutch-conversion-kit?redirectedKeyword=630-407&totalResult=1

Probably junk, only one way to find out. I've thrown more money away on bar tabs, so what the heck.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Reddog74usa

Sifton = V-Twin = JUNK I just ordered some new lock tabs for my Rivera direct from them with no issues whatsoever and still made in USA. I have returned so much stuff to V-Twin I won't even look at ANYTHING they have. It's not worth the aggravation as the quality is non existent and nothing fits or works.
RIDE IT LIKE YA STOLE IT

david lee

thanks all. what has interested me is it was mentioned to put transmission oil in the primary not engine oil.a mate said when i take the trike for a ride when my broken foot heels the clutch should free up but im not sure.if not im keen to pull the plates out for inspection and find out how much and what type of oil is in there

JW113

Reddog, I don't disagree. I've had essentially the same experience with them, and I don't even bother to return it. It goes in the trash where it belongs. The only reason I'd give that clutch assembly a look is that I've heard others on some of the other forums give positive reports. No doubt, it would be a gamble. But for $150? Not a big gamble, relatively speaking.

Dave, if you mean Automatic Transmission Fluid, that is all I have used for decades in my various primaries. Maybe aftermarket clutch suppliers also recommend it over the HD primary oil. Definitely do not use engine oil in a sealed primary! It worked in the stock Shovelhead set up because there was almost none in the primary, it was dribbled in on the chain and sucked back out the bottom into the oil pump. When they talked about a dry clutch in those bikes, they really meant DRY. Running a sealed primary you have run a small sump of oil in there for the chain. Some of it will find it's way on the clutch, the ATF seems to have a negligible effect on clutch drag or stiction.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

david lee

Quote from: JW113 on May 12, 2020, 06:29:27 PM
Reddog, I don't disagree. I've had essentially the same experience with them, and I don't even bother to return it. It goes in the trash where it belongs. The only reason I'd give that clutch assembly a look is that I've heard others on some of the other forums give positive reports. No doubt, it would be a gamble. But for $150? Not a big gamble, relatively speaking.

Dave, if you mean Automatic Transmission Fluid, that is all I have used for decades in my various primaries. Maybe aftermarket clutch suppliers also recommend it over the HD primary oil. Definitely do not use engine oil in a sealed primary! It worked in the stock Shovelhead set up because there was almost none in the primary, it was dribbled in on the chain and sucked back out the bottom into the oil pump. When they talked about a dry clutch in those bikes, they really meant DRY. Running a sealed primary you have run a small sump of oil in there for the chain. Some of it will find it's way on the clutch, the ATF seems to have a negligible effect on clutch drag or st

-JW
the previous trike owner never ran oil in there at all as he said it just leaks out as the bottom front inner primary bolt was not installed due to the bolt holes slightly mis aligned and he used to take off the inspec cover and spray lubricant on the chain.my hd mech fixed all that but curious to see what oil he put in there and how much.thanks jw someone said to drill the holes in the plates to make them slide better on the studs. any thoughts on that

JW113

I think there are a lot of tricks that can be done to improve the clutch action. It all depends on the condition of the clutch parts, and whether or not you're having clutch drag problems. The only mods to my clutch are a Ramjet retainer, an aluminum pressure plate, a matched set of springs, and a sealed primary with ATF. I have zero problems, the clutch works beautifully. No slip, no drag or creep, and easy lever pull. I have not needed to drill the plates, but if you are having problems and everything else checks out, it sure is worth a try.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

kd

By drilling the holes bigger you are actually doing to it what happens when the clutch wears out (the drive holes not the fibers) and you have to replace it.  It sounds to me like it's more about contamination than anything else.  If you want to drill them out you have to disassemble it first.  Why not clean them up as described and retry it before you screw it up by making the holes oversize.
KD

crock

Quote from: JW113 on May 12, 2020, 08:01:16 PM
I think there are a lot of tricks that can be done to improve the clutch action. It all depends on the condition of the clutch parts, and whether or not you're having clutch drag problems. The only mods to my clutch are a Ramjet retainer, an aluminum pressure plate, a matched set of springs, and a sealed primary with ATF. I have zero problems, the clutch works beautifully. No slip, no drag or creep, and easy lever pull. I have not needed to drill the plates, but if you are having problems and everything else checks out, it sure is worth a try.

-JW



My exact setup. I use these sprigs " http://www.barnettclutches.com/cart/cart.aspx " and have zero issues behind my 98" riding 2 up
Crock

kink04fxd

There's nothing wrong with running motor oil in your sealed primary. Been doing it for years. Never a problem. It only takes a few ounces, don't get carried away. Up to the bottom of the clutch basket while on the side stand.
2000 FLHTCI (now carb)<br />1982 FLH

Burnout

May 15, 2020, 07:52:42 AM #17 Last Edit: May 15, 2020, 10:26:10 AM by Burnout
I use 10oz of ATF. (3 primary oil changes in one bottle.)
ATF has a better release, less sticky.
ATF has a different color, is if there is a leak it's easy to determine what is leaking.
ATF doesn't have motor oil additives that might mess with clutch operation (minor).

Many(?) aftermarket clutch MFGRs recommend ATF.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

kink04fxd

Use a motorcycle specific oil with no friction modifiers. ATF works good too.
2000 FLHTCI (now carb)<br />1982 FLH

david lee

May 15, 2020, 04:19:31 PM #19 Last Edit: May 15, 2020, 08:11:20 PM by david lee
i thought id drain the oil and see what oil is in there .

cheech

This is in the Shovelhead forum, all the replies are in regards to the dry 3 stud hub clutches. That's an Evo.
And I recall you were asking about a reverse for that with a 5 speed.

So that should be a wet clutch with the splined hub correct?

david lee

May 15, 2020, 06:26:31 PM #21 Last Edit: May 15, 2020, 08:10:48 PM by david lee
the reverse is fitted. early 5 speed.

76shuvlinoff

My Rivera has over 30K miles on it, no issues yet . She's kinda stalled there as I became sissified and the shovel is no longer my primary ride. Maybe 3 tanks of gas in the last 2 years. Yes,  I am dutifully ashamed.
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

bump

I have been running stock clutch in 78 shovelhead with belt primary in closed case for almost 40 years. Adjusted clutch according to manual, the lever that clutch cable hooks to set at 1/2" from starter like picture in manual. I don't run any oil in primary expect what leaks through a seal some where every 6 or 7 years. Don't have primary vented except where the oil lines were taken off. Clutch lever is not hard to pull in, about same as my twincam. Belts last 8 or 10 years.

david lee

Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on May 16, 2020, 03:32:48 AM
My Rivera has over 30K miles on it, no issues yet . She's kinda stalled there as I became sissified and the shovel is no longer my primary ride. Maybe 3 tanks of gas in the last 2 years. Yes,  I am dutifully ashamed.
me too