Top fork cap question

[Adam76]

There are some things that are safe to heat, and some not. If they are heat treated, applying a torch is going to take the treatment out. If it's a wear or strength surface, not good. If simply structural, no problemo. Forks are made from cold formed steel tubing, and not heat treated. They are chrome plated for corrosion and wear, and heat will mess up the color where you apply it, but not in the region of concern (at the sliders). Yep, that O-ring is gonna get toasted, but when rebuilding forks, you need to replace pretty much all the soft parts.

-JW

Yep, you were on the money.. Only thing to crack that son of a bitch was
Very tight pinch bolt
Heat to the top few inches of the fork with a heat gun
And a real good smack with an open end and a big mallet....
Finally got it loose. 
Thanks everyone for the tips. 👍

[jsachs1]

A fool proof deal I made years ago. 1 1/4" hex bar I used to make Jap Bike starter nuts from. Milled a slot to fit the fork tube. Tigged a band around it so the slot couldn't spread. Now you can nail it with an impact gun, and 1 1/4" socket. Works every time.
John
[attach=0,msg1347901]

👍  looks good. Dont think my skills are as good as yours. Might be an opportunity to practice my welding skills 😁

Another MAJOR advantage of this set up comes into play during re-installation. Very easy to start the cap straight, without cross-threading it due to heavy duty springs, or springs that protrude a lot.
John

[PoorUB]

If you heat it to thr point of discoloring you went too far!

[04rkryder]

Now that you got the nut off, the real test is getting the spring compressed to get it back in. Spent hours of cursing and bruised hands till I came up with a tool be do the job. Good luck....

[JW113]

I can't speak to heavy springs, don't believe in them. The stock springs are not so bad, I use a 12 inch long drift, put the pointed end in the threaded hole of the cap, push straight down, and use an open end wrench to get the fork tube threads started. One thing I find that helps is before putting the springs in the tube, take the cap and find the place where the threads "just" start to engage in the tube, and mark them both with a sharpie marker. Then when you go to put the cap on with springs, you know where it should start to engage and not have to fish around for it.

-JW

[Evo160K]

One thing I find that helps is before putting the springs in the tube, take the cap and find the place where the threads "just" start to engage in the tube, and mark them both with a sharpie marker. Then when you go to put the cap on with springs, you know where it should start to engage and not have to fish around for it.

-JW

Do that and put the nut in the vise with the threads up.  The weight of the tube assembly and pulling down, which is easier, will make it much easier to screw the tube onto the threads.

Btw regarding the stuck cap, on that model bike, will that tube go into the trees from the top, so the cap could be reached from below the lower tree?

[FSG]

Btw regarding the stuck cap, on that model bike, will that tube go into the trees from the top, so the cap could be reached from below the lower tree?

No

[Adam76]

A fool proof deal I made years ago. 1 1/4" hex bar I used to make Jap Bike starter nuts from. Milled a slot to fit the fork tube. Tigged a band around it so the slot couldn't spread. Now you can nail it with an impact gun, and 1 1/4" socket. Works every time.
John
[attach=0,msg1347901]

👍  looks good. Dont think my skills are as good as yours. Might be an opportunity to practice my welding skills 😁

Another MAJOR advantage of this set up comes into play during re-installation. Very easy to start the cap straight, without cross-threading it due to heavy duty springs, or springs that protrude a lot.
John

Thanks, that's great advice. Just starting to think about reassembly.
Cheers

[Adam76]

Now that you got the nut off, the real test is getting the spring compressed to get it back in. Spent hours of cursing and bruised hands till I came up with a tool be do the job. Good luck....

Thanks for the tip 04rk.
I have a set of std length progressives to go in and was wondering about how hard it was going to be to compress then enough to get the caps on.

Maybe I'm looking at a spring compressing tool now......

Lots of new tools this simple fork job is requiring!

[Adam76]

I can't speak to heavy springs, don't believe in them. The stock springs are not so bad, I use a 12 inch long drift, put the pointed end in the threaded hole of the cap, push straight down, and use an open end wrench to get the fork tube threads started. One thing I find that helps is before putting the springs in the tube, take the cap and find the place where the threads "just" start to engage in the tube, and mark them both with a sharpie marker. Then when you go to put the cap on with springs, you know where it should start to engage and not have to fish around for it.

-JW

Hey JW, thanks for the tips.
It's just a set of std length progressive springs going in.
Will I need a spring compressor tool?
Thanks

[FSG]

Will I need a spring compressor tool?

No

[FSG]

Do that and put the nut in the vise with the threads up.  The weight of the tube assembly and pulling down, which is easier, will make it much easier to screw the tube onto the threads.

[04rkryder]

This is what I came up with after hours of cursing.  Not shown but he fork cap is screwed into the the tube plug and sets on the spring. Then the cap socket on top of that. The top plate and long threaded rod are from a Inner Cam bearing installation tool. Just turn the threaded rod and the spring is compressed, simple as pie. Should have taken a pic of parts before it was compressed.
Pro Motion sells kit to do the same thing but pricey. I use what I have around.

[attach=0]

[FSG]

 

[Adam76]

Will I need a spring compressor tool?

No

Thanks FSG.
Looks like the previous owner had put ATF in the forks (has come out red color).. how thoroughly do I need to kleen this out before putting in good quality fork oil?
Cheers

[FSG]

this is a fence/gate clamp/hinge from Bunnings that I used to hold the leg in a vise




doesn't need to be squeeky clean

[rigidthumper]

Looks like the previous owner had put ATF in the forks (has come out red color).. how thoroughly do I need to kleen this out before putting in good quality fork oil?
Cheers

Stock HD type E fork fluid is red.

[jsachs1]

While we're on the fork subject, another tool I made was from a modified drag link socket # A-17 from Snap On. This socket along with a long extension(24") is used to prevent the dampener tube from turning when loosening, or tightening the external allen bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. Especially if the bolt was drowned in Loctite previously. John

[attach=0,msg1348537]

[JW113]

I leave the fork springs in so there is pressure on the damper, and use an electric impact with a long reach hex. They spin right out as soon as you pull the trigger. If I ever happen across one that doesn't, that tool there looks pretty handy. Thanks!

-JW

[Coyote]

I leave the fork springs in so there is pressure on the damper, and use an electric impact with a long reach hex. They spin right out as soon as you pull the trigger. If I ever happen across one that doesn't, that tool there looks pretty handy. Thanks!

-JW

That's how I do them as well.

[Racepres]

It occurs to me that Once ... long ago... i used a strap wrench to hold a tube that was ornery..