Ignition Switch Connector Remover Tool

[lqqk_out]

It seems as though my 2011 Ultra won't start (not even a click). Plus the fairing indicator lights and headlight do not turn on. Both the battery and the MAXI fuse test out good. I believe the problem is at the ignition switch housing. I'd like to remove the ignition switch housing and according to the HD factory service manual one needs to use a specialty tool (HD-45961) to remove the switch connector. What are people using if they don't have this specialty tool? Just to be clear, I am talking about the "Ignition Switch Connector Tool" and NOT the "Ignition Switch Alignment Tool"?
TIA

[mkd]

did you happen to wiggle the harness by the neck bearings where it goes from the frame to the fairing? also if you have a multitester to check continuity or bypass the switch you can see if the switch is the problem.

[markymark]

Not sure you need a tool just to unplug the connector.

[Coyote]

Not sure you need a tool just to unplug the connector.

How have you unplugged it?

[lqqk_out]

did you happen to wiggle the harness by the neck bearings where it goes from the frame to the fairing? also if you have a multitester to check continuity or bypass the switch you can see if the switch is the problem.

Haven't taken apart the fairing yet, but plan to this evening. I do have a multi-tester. I'm fairly certain the issue is the ignition switch housing. Motorcycle has over 145,000 miles. When I jiggle the switch, the oil pressure indicator lights up faintly for a second.
I was just trying to get my ducks in a row in regards to making sure I had the right tool to do the job once I have everything apart.

[fleetmechanic]

The large black connector has a lock tab on it that's hard to see.  A small screwdriver will depress it so the tab doesn't get broken off.

[Coyote]

A small screwdriver will depress it so the tab doesn't get broken off.

[mkd]

does the accesory side of the switch still work? if so swap the run side wire to the accesory side and see if it lights things up!  somerone mentioned this trick about softails switches if you get staranded somewhere!

[lqqk_out]

The large black connector has a lock tab on it that's hard to see.  A small screwdriver will depress it so the tab doesn't get broken off.

I tried a variety of different sized small flat head screwdrivers and I couldn't get the connector to release. I ended up just ordering the tool from George's Garage. I called a few of the local HD shops to see if they had the Ignition Switch Housing (71572-06) in stock. None of the four dealers near me had it on the shelf, so I just ordered it. Parts counter guy said normally the parts arrive in three or four days, but due to the Covid-19, parts ordered may take a couple of weeks.

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

Check the Main Relay - Swap it with another to see if you get power again.

George's Tools are great. You may want the alignment tool as well for the Key Wafers. They tend to get misaligned easily.

As far as parts, the Dealership should be age to get it in 3-4 days. Shippers are running way behind.

[lqqk_out]

Check the Main Relay - Swap it with another to see if you get power again.

George's Tools are great. You may want the alignment tool as well for the Key Wafers. They tend to get misaligned easily.

As far as parts, the Dealership should be age to get it in 3-4 days. Shippers are running way behind.

I don't think my motorcycle has a main relay. I do know that the MAXI fuse tested good.
Already have the Ignition Switch Alignment Tool. I purchased the Marc Parnes version since it was considerably less expensive.
http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm

[Coyote]

Your bike has 3 relays but based on what you say is not working, I think you are on the right track with the ignition switch.

[fleetmechanic]

In the last year I've replaced ignition switches on a 2008 and 2009 police FLHTPs due to erratic behavior.  When you see all the copper contacts and little springs and plastic inside one you can tell how they could wear out.

[lqqk_out]

Received the tool today from George's Garage. Using the specialty tool, I was easily able to pull out the connector. I've attached a couple of pictures to show what the cable connector and the connector in the ignition switch actually looks like.

The next issue I am running into is that I can't seem to remove the ignition switch. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance under the handlebar upper clamp. Do I need to remove the handlebar upper clamp to get enough clearance? The factory service manual doesn't mention the need to do so.

[attach=0]  [attach=1]

[fleetmechanic]

Once the two allen screws that hold the switch in place are removed you should be able to get enough of an angle with the switch body to work it out. Takes a bit of wiggling.

[lqqk_out]

Once the two allen screws that hold the switch in place are removed you should be able to get enough of an angle with the switch body to work it out. Takes a bit of wiggling.

This is very strange. I understand what you are saying, but there doesn't seem to be enough room to raise the switch enough to get the bottom portion of the "switch nipple" to clear the upper fork stem bracket. I'll probably just remove the upper clamp.

[attach=0]  [attach=1]  [attach=2]

[cheech]

Is it in the fork lock position? Take a screwdriver or the alignment tool if you received it already and take it out of lock if it is in.
I got my buddies '13 out 2 years ago without removing the handlebars. Been too long to remember exactly what I did.
I'm sure held my mouth just right. Maybe flex the bars in the bushings.

[lqqk_out]

Maybe flex the bars in the bushings.

Just got back from a motocamping adventure and I wanted to post a follow-up. Picked up the new ignition switch housing from the HD dealer this morning. To get enough room/space to remove the ignition switch housing, I loosened the bolts for the lower handlebar clamps and that gave me enough room to flex the bars in the bushings. I was then able to remove and install the new housing.