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Next Step?

Started by chaos901, July 05, 2020, 03:01:19 PM

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chaos901

2010 CVO Ultra / 110 / 56,000 miles / stock but tuned with SERT.   

This weekend on a four day trip the bike used about a quart of oil on two lane roads with no long runs on the expressway at high speed, which is unusual.  When I got home I did a compression test, 135 on the front and 152 on the rear (did the front twice).  Did a leak down test, rear was 48/50 and the front was 36/50.  Ran the engine around to TDC again and did the front a second time, same results.  Even had the pushrods uncovered where I could twist them on the front to be sure. 

I suppose the next step is to pull the heads to see if a valve is sticking.  Could hear some air at the exhaust but it was fairly faint. 

Thinking while writing this, would I hear air at the oil fill if it is the rings or cylinder? 

Now my wife wants me to get a new engine, but I don't want to make that leap yet.

Basically, looking for some assistance on direction.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Hossamania

I doubt a new engine is in order, worst case scenario a new top end rebuild.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Scotty

2009 up for a couple of years had very suspect exhaust valve guides which came loose and can be fixed quite easily by a good workshop.
Either way you are going to have to remove the heads and have a look I think.

Hillside Motorcycle

We witnessed those cylinders out-of-round on some of those, causing unwanted oil useage.
Precision valve/seat work at the same time, and back in the wind.
Otto Knowbetter sez, "Even a fish wouldn't get caught if he kept his mouth shut"

prodrag1320

im sure theres no reason for a new motor,rebuild top end & you`ll be fine

rigidthumper

A known issue ( besides the ones already mentioned) is inner cam bearing failure on the early 110 CVOs, but before tearing the cam cavity apart for that, re-do the compression tests with the ACRs unplugged.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

chaos901

I did not unplug the ACRs for either test, will redo. 

I did change the cam bearings about a year ago.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

les

I can't remember what year, but I recall discussions about the cylinder sleeves slipping/shifting upward on early 110 engines.  I have a close friend that this happened to.

Coyote

Quote from: les on July 06, 2020, 06:46:17 AM
I can't remember what year, but I recall discussions about the cylinder sleeves slipping/shifting upward on early 110 engines.  I have a close friend that this happened to.

2007-2008

harpwrench

I had one just like yours a few years ago, wish I would have hung onto it! Anyway, I did a top end on it and ended up tearing it completely down for a crank about 5 thousand miles later. The reason it needed the top end was because the rod bearings were shedding metal and squirting it on the pistons. I figured the scoring was from the prior owner running it hot and wasn't looking close enough to see what was going on, it wasn't showing up on the drain plug yet the first go around.

chaos901

FWIW, I did check my run-out when doing the cam bearings.  I don't remember the number but it was well within tolerance; least it was back then.  Since it seems that I will be getting fairly deep into it again, I will verify the run-out again. 
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Screamin beagle

Everybody is missing the biggest key here...his wife said get a new motor lol. Hes got a hall pass to go nuts, so what kind of friends are we to talk him out of it? Do it right the first time, rebuild it from the crank up. Darkhorse crank, case work to go 124. I'd get in touch with one these great engine builders on here and make a game plan...good luck with the bike

kd

Quote from: Screamin beagle on July 07, 2020, 06:08:42 AM
Everybody is missing the biggest key here...his wife said get a new motor lol. Hes got a hall pass to go nuts, so what kind of friends are we to talk him out of it? Do it right the first time, rebuild it from the crank up. Darkhorse crank, case work to go 124. I'd get in touch with one these great engine builders on here and make a game plan...good luck with the bike

:idea:
KD

chaos901

Now you see the light....but I'm still likely not going that direction because I like my engine they way it is....go figure.

I've sent out emails to folks here about doing my heads, no responses yet.   
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

chaos901

July 09, 2020, 06:29:25 AM #14 Last Edit: July 09, 2020, 06:33:31 AM by chaos901
Getting bike apart, got the front head off last night.  Should have time to get rear off tonight.  Sending heads to Larry in Chicago.  Cylinder appears OK, will verify bore, change rings, lifters, check runout, possibly change oil pump.  Will have some time while the heads are gone.   

  [attach=0,msg1354214]
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

chaos901

Front Cylinder

[attach=0]
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

les

You mentioned that you will "change rings".  Does that include de-glazing the cylinder walls too so the rings will properly break in?

RTMike

Your all ready there,rebore new pistons and rings to suite your cam and head work. Talk to Larry he will point you in the right direction on your project.

chaos901

Do plan to de-glaze, but do appreciate the comment.  Some decisions I'm waiting on the outcome of my run-out.  It has been OK before and I like my 110, but if it is bad I suppose I will bite the bullet and go bigger.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Hossamania

July 09, 2020, 07:20:54 AM #19 Last Edit: July 09, 2020, 07:26:57 AM by Hossamania
Your choices will be determined once the cylinders are measured. If too far out of round, perhaps a slight overbore to clean up, new pistons to fit, not a real increase in size. I'm not sure how far the 110 cylinders can be bored, not my area of expertise. If too far gone, a new set of 110 cylinders, reuse your pistons, or possibly new. No real need to go crazy with a big motor, clean yours up as cost efficiently as possible, and go. Staying 110" with the the heads cleaned up and a good tune will be a nice running machine. With any luck, a deglaze and rings will be all you need.
Just my two cents worth while I kill time this morning.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

FLDavetrain

110 cylinders can be bored to 113ci
currently 510ci on tap

aharp

110 top ends definitely have room for improvement in the fitment department.
Speed costs money. How fast do you want to spend?

chaos901

July 11, 2020, 10:30:43 AM #22 Last Edit: July 11, 2020, 10:38:22 AM by chaos901
Got it apart, runout was acceptable, started to put the cam chest back together and ran my fingers around the cam lobes and found a bad place.  The front cam (right in the photo) has a place that is real rough and pitted. 

Granted the front cylinder was the one that failed the tests, but what causes something like this to occur?

[attach=0,msg1354548]

EDIT:  I did have the cams out last year when I changed the cam bearings, did not notice anything then, but maybe missed it.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

rigidthumper

The cams, lifters, and inner cam bearings on CVOs take a beating from the big valve springs.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

FXDBI

Lifter rollers look shot to.  Why don't you get it all apart and CLEANED and inspected before you assemble anything?   Dis-assemble and clean and inspect it all first. When you say run out was acceptable it doesn't tell what it is? If you were already re-assembling that cam chest it is filthy and needs to be much cleaner. Cleanliness is next to godliness and a requirement of proper engine work.  Bob