April 19, 2024, 08:52:03 AM

News:

For advertising inquiries or help with registration or other issues, you may contact us by email at help@harleytechtalk.com


Can't find neutral while engine running

Started by Toomuchstuff, July 06, 2020, 01:16:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

thumper 823

I have not ever owned a twink or newer- But just for conversation-I have not ever been on an Evo or shovel that just clicked in and out of natural.
Well, out of Neutral into first or second but, Not the other way.
Sitting still and finding neutral is part of the HD legacy,  balky to say the least.

I guess my experience is different than most of you guys.
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

Hossamania

Even set at its best, I usually need to rev the motor a bit in order to find neutral with the clutch pulled in.

Quote from: Racepres on July 07, 2020, 08:14:15 AM
Quote from: Hossamania on July 07, 2020, 08:11:12 AM
Interesting, I do the opposite. Loosen cable all the way, set the pushrod 1/2 to 3/4 turn, then set cable play.
Think very carefully about What you are trying to accomplish... Try it... you'll like it..
Only on Ball and Ramp Set-up...

I will have to give it a try.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Toomuchstuff

I had a spare clutch cable so I changed it out.   I adjusted the clutch rod and cable and took the bike for a ride.   The clutch drag is worse than before.   The bike will idle at 1 mph with the clutch pulled all the way in.   

I tried to set the rod depth 3/4 turn out from the stopping point this try.   Is it possible that I am hitting a false stop point and not screwing the rod in enough in order to disengage the clutch fully?

Hossamania

Try readjusting it again now that it has been ridden. Again, how old are these cables?
Yes, it is possible you are getting a false adjustment, that is why I like to bounce the pushrod off the bottom a few times to try and get the ramp completely set at its base spot, even overtightening it a bit, loosen, bounce, then set.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Racepres

Quote from: thumper 823 on July 07, 2020, 08:46:16 AM
I have not ever owned a twink or newer- But just for conversation-I have not ever been on an Evo or shovel that just clicked in and out of natural.
Well, out of Neutral into first or second but, Not the other way.
Sitting still and finding neutral is part of the HD legacy,  balky to say the least.

I guess my experience is different than most of you guys.
A Shovel Clutch can be made to work very well indeed.. won't be "as stock" tho..or replace with something like the Pro Clutch... No more Neutral Problems.
I have Poor Luck with the '84 thru??? maybe '88 Clutch... That one just Sucks!!
the post '94 Clutch is a very good one IMO... In Between.. well again... gotta have the cable loose... gotta twist ramp adjustment until Balls are Seated and the clutch begins to Disengage.. then adjust freeplay... don't need much... then adjust ball/ramp adjustment to just shy of "Bumping"...


Quote from: Toomuchstuff on July 07, 2020, 10:02:57 AM
I had a spare clutch cable so I changed it out.   I adjusted the clutch rod and cable and took the bike for a ride.   The clutch drag is worse than before.   The bike will idle at 1 mph with the clutch pulled all the way in.   

I tried to set the rod depth 3/4 turn out from the stopping point this try.   Is it possible that I am hitting a false stop point and not screwing the rod in enough in order to disengage the clutch fully?
I know nothing of 3/4 of a turn... never did anything like that... Not Going to..
See above!!!

Julio

Quote from: Toomuchstuff on July 07, 2020, 10:02:57 AM
I had a spare clutch cable so I changed it out.   I adjusted the clutch rod and cable and took the bike for a ride.   The clutch drag is worse than before.   The bike will idle at 1 mph with the clutch pulled all the way in.   

I tried to set the rod depth 3/4 turn out from the stopping point this try.   Is it possible that I am hitting a false stop point and not screwing the rod in enough in order to disengage the clutch fully?

If you've checked and made sure all the other adjustments are correct, check your spring plate with a straight edge. It should be straight across. If it isn't, you'll have to remove it and place it on the right spot. I think there's like 3 or 4 different adjustments on the pressure plate.

cheech

Quote from: Julio on July 07, 2020, 11:15:22 AM

If you've checked and made sure all the other adjustments are correct, check your spring plate with a straight edge. It should be straight across. If it isn't, you'll have to remove it and place it on the right spot. I think there's like 3 or 4 different adjustments on the pressure plate.
:scratch:
If you don't mind give us a SM reference with this right spot and the "adjustments" you speak of?

Toomuchstuff, you'd advance your cause and this thread if you pulled your derby cover to get a picture of your clutch assembly and shared it here.
Disregarding the dry clutch in the early FXST, which I doubt you have, there are 3 variations of clutches in EVO's.
Only one has a so called spring plate, none as far as I know have a "right spot", Or  3 or 4 adjustments on the pressure plate.
Adjustable pushrod screw? Yes

remington007

Post up a pic of the clutch in question, they each have there own issues. As posted earlier there are 3 different evo clutches.

Deye76

July 07, 2020, 02:17:22 PM #33 Last Edit: July 07, 2020, 02:22:22 PM by Deye76
"I know nothing of 3/4 of a turn."
Manual reads 1/2 to one turn.
After adjusting the clutch push rod, squeeze the clutch lever (handlebar) 3 times to set the ball/ramp, then adjust cable. 
FWIW, Best thing I did on my 92' FXR was go to a 98'-06' assy. Have to change the starter ring gear, finding neutral from a stop is easy, holds 130 tq. The 92' assy. with a new extra plate clutch slipped badly.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

Toomuchstuff

Quote from: remington007 on July 07, 2020, 01:32:15 PM
Post up a pic of the clutch in question, they each have there own issues. As posted earlier there are 3 different evo clutches.
[attach=0,msg1353955]   

I just took the bike for another ride.   It changes gears ok with a bit of effort but not terrible and the clutch doesn't seem to be dragging anymore.  But still really difficult to find neutral. 

remington007

That is a 98 up style clutch. The steel plates could be warped or i have seen some aftermarket fibers cause clutch drag and neutral issues. I have had to take out new clutch sets for this same reason.

Dan89flstc

Quote from: Julio on July 07, 2020, 11:15:22 AM
If you've checked and made sure all the other adjustments are correct, check your spring plate with a straight edge. It should be straight across. If it isn't, you'll have to remove it and place it on the right spot. I think there's like 3 or 4 different adjustments on the pressure plate.

This is the diaphragm spring adjustment procedure for an `89 or earlier diaphragm clutch.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

JW113

One more time....

Go look at General / Overfill Primary. I just went through this same crap. I put a quart in, it soaked the clutch plates. I drained the oil, put in 24oz. I did not help at all. I pulled the primary, took the clutch apart, cleaned the plates in solvent, put all back together with 24oz of oil. Boom! Clutch works perfectly now.

You need to try the same, I would bet a nickel it will fix it.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Toomuchstuff

Quote from: JW113 on July 07, 2020, 03:47:37 PM
One more time....

Go look at General / Overfill Primary. I just went through this same crap. I put a quart in, it soaked the clutch plates. I drained the oil, put in 24oz. I did not help at all. I pulled the primary, took the clutch apart, cleaned the plates in solvent, put all back together with 24oz of oil. Boom! Clutch works perfectly now.

You need to try the same, I would bet a nickel it will fix it.

-JW

I am going to try this.  I am thinking that when i overfilled it with ATF which contains friction modifiers, that some of it may have gotten on the clutch plates.

I ordered a new shifter bushing since mine was worn.  When that comes in, i will pull the clutch plates and clean them. 

Since I dont know what kind of clutch plates are in there, i will probably refill the primary with oil instead of ATF and use the correct amount this time.

Thanks for everyone's help and I will update this post once I try this.


Deye76

Nothing wrong with ATF. Automatic transmissions are full of plates etc. Motor oil will be worse on your clutch plates.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

FSG

Quotetitled as a 2000 but I don't know what year lots of the parts are.   It's a harley 5 speed but not sure what year primary is on it. 

OK  you changed the clutch cable with a spare, how old is the spare, is it used or new, when you had the side cover off for the cable change  did you happen to notice what deg the ramps are as HD has a few different angles and there was a set of 15Degs that were used in the '90s

does it have one of those silly easy clutch do-dahs in there ?

it'd be worth knowing what ramps are in there

yes 98 up basket, fingers may be grooves and causing problems with the plate seperation

any adjustment left in the mid clutch cable adjustment or is it perhaps maxed out, perhaps a pic or three   :SM:

Julio

Quote from: Dan89flstc on July 07, 2020, 03:28:53 PM
Quote from: Julio on July 07, 2020, 11:15:22 AM
If you've checked and made sure all the other adjustments are correct, check your spring plate with a straight edge. It should be straight across. If it isn't, you'll have to remove it and place it on the right spot. I think there's like 3 or 4 different adjustments on the pressure plate.

This is the diaphragm spring adjustment procedure for an `89 or earlier diaphragm clutch.
That's right.
Now that the OP has posted a pic of his clutch, we can rule that out.

FSG

Quote from: Deye76 on July 07, 2020, 04:07:01 PM
Nothing wrong with ATF. Automatic transmissions are full of plates etc. Motor oil will be worse on your clutch plates.

:agree:    x 1000

Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Toomuchstuff

Quote from: Deye76 on July 07, 2020, 04:07:01 PM
Nothing wrong with ATF. Automatic transmissions are full of plates etc. Motor oil will be worse on your clutch plates.

I usually use ATF in the primaries of my bikes.  I have it in 2 other bikes now.  But i am thinking that I overfilled the primary with AFT and it sat for about 2 months that way. So the part of the clutch plates that were soaked in ATF during that time may have a different grip or friction coefficient than the portion that wasnt. 

Toomuchstuff

Quote from: FSG on July 07, 2020, 04:08:20 PM
Quotetitled as a 2000 but I don't know what year lots of the parts are.   It's a harley 5 speed but not sure what year primary is on it. 

OK  you changed the clutch cable with a spare, how old is the spare, is it used or new, when you had the side cover off for the cable change  did you happen to notice what deg the ramps are as HD has a few different angles and there was a set of 15Degs that were used in the '90s

does it have one of those silly easy clutch do-dahs in there ?

it'd be worth knowing what ramps are in there

yes 98 up basket, fingers may be grooves and causing problems with the plate seperation

any adjustment left in the mid clutch cable adjustment or is it perhaps maxed out, perhaps a pic or three   :SM:


The clutch cable i installed wasnt new but it was in good shape and worked well when i took it off.   I had the ramps out when i changed the cable but didnt pay much attention to the ramp angle.  And there was no easy clutch pull device installed.
I will check the fingers for grooves and the plates for flatness when i pull it apart.
Thanks

FSG

Quotedidnt pay much attention to the ramp angle

if you get the opportunity take a look, 15 deg ramps were/are a pain, I took them out of my Evo Tourer a long time ago

cables can look/feel/operate well when unhooked/removed but the outer jacket may collapse some when in operation and in doing so you lose plate separation

best way to tell is to slack the able then wind in the adjuster till you see plate separation,
then remove the slack from the cable,

then operate the clutch lever, any significant movement is a good indicator of the outer clutch cable jacket collapsing


JW113

Quote from: FSG on July 07, 2020, 06:07:46 PM
then operate the clutch lever, any significant movement is a good indicator of the outer clutch cable jacket collapsing

Can you expound on that a little? If you adjust as you've described, then watch where that red arrow is pointed and operate the clutch, it is definitely going to move outward significantly, no? Or are you saying it will move out, then start moving back in as you hold the clutch lever steady?

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

cheech

Quote from: Dan89flstc on July 07, 2020, 03:28:53 PM
Quote from: Julio on July 07, 2020, 11:15:22 AM
If you've checked and made sure all the other adjustments are correct, check your spring plate with a straight edge. It should be straight across. If it isn't, you'll have to remove it and place it on the right spot. I think there's like 3 or 4 different adjustments on the pressure plate.

This is the diaphragm spring adjustment procedure for an `89 or earlier diaphragm clutch.
:up:  Right, the straight edge against the diaphragm spring, then the adjuster plate, not the pressure plate, has 3 different depths.
Saying spring plate alludes to the 90 to 97 clutch. If in fact he did have one.

JW113

It appears to be the '98 to '06 clutch. Hence the problem with overfilling the primary to pre '98 specs.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber