Rocker arm removal question

[Adam76]

Another picture. Doesn't look too good to me?

[turboprop]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

[Adam76]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

Thanks turboprop. I haven't looked into the oil pump yet. Where exactly should I be looking?
Cheers

[turboprop]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

Thanks turboprop. I haven't looked into the oil pump yet. Where exactly should I be looking?
Cheers

In the cavities where the gears turn.

[choseneasy]

 The breather bore looks like crud was caught in it. How did the inside of the breather look? Was there metal in it on disassembly?

[Adam76]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

Thanks turboprop. I haven't looked into the oil pump yet. Where exactly should I be looking?
Cheers

In the cavities where the gears turn.

Cavities, oil pump drive gear  and shaft appear to be clean and in good condition.

It's more the oil pump pinion shaft gear that looks the problem?

[Adam76]

The breather bore looks like crud was caught in it. How did the inside of the breather look? Was there metal in it on disassembly?

Breather was good and clean.

[turboprop]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

Thanks turboprop. I haven't looked into the oil pump yet. Where exactly should I be looking?
Cheers

In the cavities where the gears turn.

Cavities, oil pump drive gear  and shaft appear to be clean and in good condition.

It's more the oil pump pinion shaft gear that looks the problem?

There are four gears inside the oil pump in addition to the two that you see inside the came chest. The oil pump will have be removed in order to be inspected for particles and for damage to the pump body, cover and gears.

[Adam76]

If that oil pump driver gear is as it appears in the picture, yes, it is a problem. The bare minimum is the gear will have to be replaced. At the other end of the spectrum is a complete teardown. Have you looked inside the cavities in the oil pump where the gears turn?

Thanks turboprop. I haven't looked into the oil pump yet. Where exactly should I be looking?
Cheers

In the cavities where the gears turn.

Cavities, oil pump drive gear  and shaft appear to be clean and in good condition.

It's more the oil pump pinion shaft gear that looks the problem?

There are four gears inside the oil pump in addition to the two that you see inside the came chest. The oil pump will have be removed in order to be inspected for particles and for damage to the pump body, cover and gears.

Ok, thanks heaps for the advice. Didn't expect that after the bike has only done 20K....

[Scotty]

Ok, thanks heaps for the advice. Didn't expect that after the bike has only done 20K....

Problem with older bikes of that vintage is swapping in a low km speedo is very very easy.
The 92 FXR I bought only had 8900 km's on the speedo but the one on it previously had stopped working at 42k.......BUT riding without a speedo could have been going on for quite a while.
Unless you personally know the guy who bought it new you really have no way of knowing how many km's it's done.
Point in case mate owns a Harley tour ride thing here in Adelaide and racked up near 190,000 kms on his 2007 Road King but the bike still looked very very good because he took care of it. Sold it to a guy from Victoria who 1 month later had it for sale on Ebay with a speedo saying 26,000 kms.
Yes there are pricks out there who will screw you with a smile on their face as they pretend to be your best mate.

[Adam76]

Ok, thanks heaps for the advice. Didn't expect that after the bike has only done 20K....

Problem with older bikes of that vintage is swapping in a low km speedo is very very easy.
The 92 FXR I bought only had 8900 km's on the speedo but the one on it previously had stopped working at 42k.......BUT riding without a speedo could have been going on for quite a while.
Unless you personally know the guy who bought it new you really have no way of knowing how many km's it's done.
Point in case mate owns a Harley tour ride thing here in Adelaide and racked up near 190,000 kms on his 2007 Road King but the bike still looked very very good because he took care of it. Sold it to a guy from Victoria who 1 month later had it for sale on Ebay with a speedo saying 26,000 kms.
Yes there are pricks out there who will screw you with a smile on their face as they pretend to be your best mate.

Yeah, I know these things happen.... just never to me.
I just hope it's not as bad as it seems and I don't have to rebuild the bottom end. What kind of signs should I be looking for our checking to see whether it's a high like bike and I need to pull the motor out?
Thanks

[JW113]

I wouldn't jump down that rabbit hole just yet. You're already doing a top end, yes? After the jugs & pistons are pulled, see how tight the rods are on the crank pin. Should have very little side to side/up & down movement. If OK, then good to go.

It's possible the oil pump drive gear got damaged during assembly at the factory, or when the prior guy put the EV46 in it. About all you can do at this point is make sure any chips didn't end up scaring the inside of the oil pump. If it looks good, then replace that funky gear, and good to go. Don't fret it anymore than that. You'll need the special socket to get that pinion gear nut off.

-JW

[cheech]

You'll need the special socket to get that pinion gear nut off.

-JW

That has the hex pinion nut, not the 2 flat nut.

[cheech]

And to clear up, your first concern was the 2 markings behind the pinion gear and the oil pump gear?
I take it you were referring to these 2 paint assembly markings as I see them?
These circled?
No issue with those. 
  [attach=0,msg1354862]

And I guess Turboprop was referring to the oil pump gear having the "torn" wear to speak? Circled in the below.
[attach=1,msg1354862]

[Scotty]

Yeah, I know these things happen.... just never to me.
I just hope it's not as bad as it seems and I don't have to rebuild the bottom end. What kind of signs should I be looking for our checking to see whether it's a high like bike and I need to pull the motor out?
Thanks

At this point I would just change out that that gear and make sure pump is clear and no damage to teeth and run it.
I was just pointing out that maybe it has a few more k's than what you realise but why worry about that now as you own it.

[Adam76]

I wouldn't jump down that rabbit hole just yet. You're already doing a top end, yes? After the jugs & pistons are pulled, see how tight the rods are on the crank pin. Should have very little side to side/up & down movement. If OK, then good to go.

It's possible the oil pump drive gear got damaged during assembly at the factory, or when the prior guy put the EV46 in it. About all you can do at this point is make sure any chips didn't end up scaring the inside of the oil pump. If it looks good, then replace that funky gear, and good to go. Don't fret it anymore than that. You'll need the special socket to get that pinion gear nut off.

-JW

Thanks JW, I was starting to stress.

Oil pump disassembly and check is next on the list.

Thanks again for the help.

[Adam76]

And to clear up, your first concern was the 2 markings behind the pinion gear and the oil pump gear?
I take it you were referring to these 2 paint assembly markings as I see them?
These circled?
No issue with those. 
  [attach=0,msg1354862]

And I guess Turboprop was referring to the oil pump gear having the "torn" wear to speak? Circled in the below.
[attach=1,msg1354862]

Hey cheech, yes those first two markings/ scratches you circled were actually the first things I was concerned about - it is like the surface/ coating of the metal has been chipped off..... But if you think there is no problem there that is good news.
Cheers

[Adam76]

You'll need the special socket to get that pinion gear nut off.

-JW

That has the hex pinion nut, not the 2 flat nut.

Thanks cheech,  does this nut take a normal socket and undo lefty loosy?

[JW113]

I think I mis-spoke. I see that you have a hex nut on there. Me sooooo sorry....

-JW

[Adam76]

I think I mis-spoke. I see that you have a hex nut on there. Me sooooo sorry....

-JW

😁😁  all good.

[cheech]

Thanks cheech,  does this nut take a normal socket and undo lefty loosy?

Yes Sir.

[Adam76]

And to clear up, your first concern was the 2 markings behind the pinion gear and the oil pump gear?
I take it you were referring to these 2 paint assembly markings as I see them?

Yes cheech,  my bad.  After giving them a clean they eventually came off, so obviously paint marks. 

[Adam76]

I wouldn't jump down that rabbit hole just yet. You're already doing a top end, yes? After the jugs & pistons are pulled, see how tight the rods are on the crank pin. Should have very little side to side/up & down movement. If OK, then good to go.

** I did have a quick look at that and one of the rods has a bit of play side to side... more than I would have expected. I'll have to measure it?

It's possible the oil pump drive gear got damaged during assembly at the factory, or when the prior guy put the EV46 in it.
-JW

** Yes, first thing on the list is replacement of that oil pump  drive gear.

[Adam76]

Yeah, I know these things happen.... just never to me.
I just hope it's not as bad as it seems and I don't have to rebuild the bottom end. What kind of signs should I be looking for our checking to see whether it's a high like bike and I need to pull the motor out?
Thanks

At this point I would just change out that that gear and make sure pump is clear and no damage to teeth and run it.
I was just pointing out that maybe it has a few more k's than what you realise but why worry about that now as you own it.

Thanks Scotty.
When looking at the oil pump, what is the procedure? Just pull it off, have a good look inside for wear or chips on the gears and any debris and put it back together? I'm assuming I need new gaskets.
Thanks

[JW113]

I did have a quick look at that and one of the rods has a bit of play side to side... more than I would have expected. I'll have to measure it?

The front (knife) will be have more side to side than the rear (fork), that is normal. If the rear has much side to side wiggle, then measure it. But what I do for a quick check is to pull up on the rod with one hand, and pound the top of it with the other hand. If you can feel any movement (i.e. knocking against the crank pin) it might have too much roller clearance from wear. Usually you can feel no movement at all. But the reality is, these roller bottom ends, if not abused and maintained well, last a long, long time.

-JW