2016 FLSTC very noisy and clunky gear change

[Finn]

Yes, checking bike upright on mine as well.

Don't know whether it is a fluid type thing but I'll check if the Redline is available over here just in case.

[Ohio HD]

I wouldn't worry too much about the viscosity effecting the stator. HD recommends their 80w-140 Heavy Synthetic Gear Oil for primary and transmission on big twin bikes.

Heavy Synthetic Gear Oil

[Fat11Lo]

I had a Road King once that I couldn't get the clutch to stop dragging, it was very hard to find neutral and bike would creep while sitting in gear. I found this:

https://youtube.com/shorts/Pn1pOW_iOUc?feature=share

I replaced the clutch hub

Maybe something to check if you decide to take it apart

[IronButt70]

Yes, checking bike upright on mine as well.

Don't know whether it is a fluid type thing but I'll check if the Redline is available over here just in case.

Finn,
I have a 17 FLSTC and this post is from the FWIW dept. I have the SM for my bike and according to it the capacity for the primary is 34 oz. wet and 38 oz. dry. The owners manual calls for 32 oz. When I change my fluid 28 oz. brings it up to the bottom of the clutch basket which is what the owners manual says should be the starting point, adding more as/if needed. I can't imagine trying to fill it to even 34 oz. let alone 38. Your issues sound like what happens when the primary is overfilled. I use Redline primary fluid exclusively. Hope this helps.

[60Gunner]

Finn? My 07 HD SM blows past the detail on the bikes static position when adding fluids - especially to the primary. I did find it in another section eventually and learned it has to be upright for the primary fluid check. Yours?

Also a known good HD Factory-trained Tech in my area warned against heavy fluids in the primary. According to him, they'll take your Stator out from heat. Not sure of this as I never use anything but Redline Primary Fluid but thought I'd toss it into the ring for discussion.

Type F ATF. Specifically B&M Trickshift. Recommended by most clutch manufacturers. Smooth as butter.  'Nuff said.
Btw, one of them warns against using HD's F+.
Wonder if that's covered in the manual 🤔

Problem is people think thicker oil will save their POS compensators. Never considering the issue is splash lube. Or lack of it. Hence the paddle one compensator manufacturer instructs you to GLUE ON!
Now maybe, just maybe, THINNER is the answer. Better splash lube?  It sure is the ticket for better clutch operation for sure. And that's my main objective.

[72fl]

Finn I use BelRay Primary Oil some of them others will slip under a hard acceleration
 

[Finn]

Right.

I bought this bike three years ago and back then it had only around 5000 km on the clock. It had done very little every year and I recall I thought back then that the clutch was not working as it should.

It had Formula + in then after fresh service by the dealer but I don't know if they had adjusted the clutch itself.

After a while I put Belray in and IIRC the clutch was adjusted. I like to remember that this change made the clutch work better.

As I mentioned in the opening post clutch operation became worse and last week it started to be unbearable.

Found Redline V-Twin primary oil locally with -50% discount so naturally I bought all four quarts they had left. After fluid change and clutch adjustment the operation is slightly better but still 'hit and miss' ie. one time gear change is smooth as butter and next time with a huge "clunk".

I'm going to give the bike some time now with Redline but I'm suspecting that long standing periods during early years may have affected the clutch plates.

Is this even possible?

[60Gunner]

You sure wouldn't catch me running 80W140 gear lube in the primary cuz HD says so. It's  not smooth shifting/clutch operation they have in mind recommending that.

They recommend the crankcase breathers be routed to the intake too. Yet common sense says otherwise.

If you're looking for smooth shifting/clutch operation, listen to the clutch manufacturers.
I get no clunk ever. Not the slightest and neutral is easy.

[kd]

You sure wouldn't catch me running 80W140 gear lube in the primary cuz HD says so. It's  not smooth shifting/clutch operation they have in mind recommending that.

They recommend the crankcase breathers be routed to the intake too. Yet common sense says otherwise.

If you're looking for smooth shifting/clutch operation, listen to the clutch manufacturers.
I get no clunk ever. Not the slightest and neutral is easy.

If you are suggesting that Harley is responsible for the breather design you may want to reconsider.  The crankcase breather system is dictated by the EPA for environmental reasons.  "ALL" vehicle manufacturers MUST follow those demands.