Build progress and pushrod question

[FSG]

you have to remove the PR Tubes from the engine, chuck up the upper tube in a lathe or drill press vise then bore or drill

all upper tubes that I've come across, even those from S&S are distorted at the top from when the tube was compressed to provide the land for the O-Ring

[kd]

Pull the pushrods, chuck the tops of the tubes in a lathe and pass a 5/8" drill bit about an inch or so into the top end, done.  Re-assemble. While you have the pushrods out, lift out the rocker stands and drill / chamfer the drain hole.     

added later

I see FSG responded with his as usual excellent information. I'll post this any way.

[FSG]

I've also trimmed them down at the top so there's no excessive protrusion into the head

every little bit of clearance adds up to being good

kd    cheers   

[Adam76]

Ah, thanks. I see what you mean now. For some reason, because we were talking about opening up the oil breather hole in the rocker box,  I thought you had meant opening up the hole at the tip of the PR itself 😂😂
Then I was thinking,  hmmm how's that going to work.
Moving right along.
Idefinitely think what you're suggesting is great info, but I've just finished putting  the rocker covers on and things are progressing. I may end up taking them off again if I decide to do the tube mod.

Man that rear evo softail rocker cover is a job to get back in there without dripping the engine a little.

[FSG]

Moving right along.

  put it on your list of things to do in the future   

[Adam76]

I've also trimmed them down at the top so there's no excessive protrusion into the head

every little bit of clearance adds up to being good

kd    cheers   

Thanks FSG,  appreciate the pictures as well. Makes good sense and I'll definitley put it on the list for another day. 👍

[JW113]

All good advice, no doubt. But we are talking EV-27, a tic more than stock cam. Really?

I know I sound like a broken record player stuck in a groove. Adam, don't over think this crap. Build it, and sort it out later, if need be. It sounds to me like you are really going to enjoy the end result, a reliable and fun to ride machine. Looking forward to tossing back a cold one when you get this critter together and running. We are headed into winter here, but you blokes are facing summer. Get 'er done!


-JW

[Adam76]

All good advice, no doubt. But we are talking EV-27, a tic more than stock cam. Really?

I know I sound like a broken record player stuck in a groove. Adam, don't over think this crap. Build it, and sort it out later, if need be. It sounds to me like you are really going to enjoy the end result, a reliable and fun to ride machine. Looking forward to tossing back a cold one when you get this critter together and running. We are headed into winter here, but you blokes are facing summer. Get 'er done!


-JW

Thanks JW, yes I'll be cracking a cold one as soon as I get this bike up and running.

Yes you do sound like a broken record 😁 in a good way of course.  I am keeping it simple, as you can see by my last post, I just finished correctly adjusting the PRs, put the stock rocker covers back on with the stock PR covers.

Just finished putting the new clutch in,  next is the carb and breather gear, fuel tank, ignition and exhaust.
Almost there, thanks for the help. 👍

[thumper 823]

I went into a lot of detail here about my build and ended up using a Woods cam as per Hillside's recommendation. Even with 590 lift I don't have pushrod tube problems.

[Adam76]

Hey guys,
Starting reinstallation of fuel and ignition, and was wondering what a good base setting is for my Dyna2000i ignition and single fire blue streak coil.
There are the 4 different advance curves but with the instructions my build could fit a few of the curves- not very clear?
Voes off?
Adv curve 1 or maybe curve 4?

Also, I found a local company here in Melbourne that had been manufacturing their own Harley mufflers for 20 years, especially for the evils and shovels.

I ordered a set and the fit and finish is great but looking through the internal muffler body it seems super restrictive. I've posted a pic from the header pipe and muffler tip ends for you to have a look at and advise me on whether these restrictive baffle  design is going to hurt my performance. I've come this far in the performance area  - dome forged pistons, mild headwork, compression, ev27 cam etc... don't want a poor exhaust muffler letting me down.

Thanks for any tips👍

[rigidthumper]

Those look similar to the original Cycle Shack baffles, that worked extremely well in Evo builds. I'd bet they'll be good.

[kd]

What size is the diameter of the actual baffle?  The inlet end appears to have the equivalent of a simple lollipop device.  (BTW it looks to me like the one weld could use a touch up.) The lollipop device is a proven defense against low rpm torque loss in a free flowing exhaust like drag pipes.  I'm with rigidthumper.  It appears to to me to be way less restrictive  than the stock units so the device will be helpful (and somewhat tunable).

[Adam76]

Those look similar to the original Cycle Shack baffles, that worked extremely well in Evo builds. I'd bet they'll be good.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. 👍
I was a little disappointed when I received them,  but if they have a design liked the cycle shack mufflers then they should be fine From what I've read, the CS mufflers were excellent performers.
Do you think I should open them up just a touch? Or leave the baffle as it is?
Cheers

[Adam76]

What size is the diameter of the actual baffle?  The inlet end appears to have the equivalent of a simple lollipop device.  (BTW it looks to me like the one weld could use a touch up.) The lollipop device is a proven defense against low rpm torque loss in a free flowing exhaust like drag pipes.  I'm with rigidthumper.  It appears to to me to be way less restrictive  than the stock units so the device will be helpful (and somewhat tunable).

I'm not sure, but I'll measure the
size of the internal baffles late today. 👍

[Hossamania]

Those look similar to the original Cycle Shack baffles, that worked extremely well in Evo builds. I'd bet they'll be good.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. 👍
I was a little disappointed when I received them,  but if they have a design liked the cycle shack mufflers then they should be fine From what I've read, the CS mufflers were excellent performers.
Do you think I should open them up just a touch? Or leave the baffle as it is?
Cheers

Use them as is to start, modify as necessary. Don't make wholesale changes before even firing up the motor. Get it running, heat cycle it a few times, change oil, and start tuning. Again, don't make wholesale changes, change little things one at a time.

[Adam76]

Those look similar to the original Cycle Shack baffles, that worked extremely well in Evo builds. I'd bet they'll be good.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. 👍
I was a little disappointed when I received them,  but if they have a design liked the cycle shack mufflers then they should be fine From what I've read, the CS mufflers were excellent performers.
Do you think I should open them up just a touch? Or leave the baffle as it is?
Cheers

Use them as is to start, modify as necessary. Don't make wholesale changes before even firing up the motor. Get it running, heat cycle it a few times, change oil, and start tuning. Again, don't make wholesale changes, change little things one at a time.

Thanks Hoss,  will do that.  👍

[JW113]

Agree, those look very Cycle-Shack-like. Should work very well.

-JW

[Adam76]

Things are really starting to moved along now, very exciting.

I've hooked up the Ultima 2000i, new cool, plugs and leads. 

I have left the violet and the green wires in place but not connected -- because I don't have a tacho and I'm not using VOES.

Am I right in not using voes at all? Or should this be connected?

And what settings would you suggest I start with? Curve 3 is for mildly modified motors, if I'm reading the instructions right...

Just need to get it near enough, as it's getting a professional tune as soon as the engine is run in.

Thanks for the help. 👍

[Scotty]

Curve 2 or 3 but I recommend using a VOES but that's me.

[Adam76]

Curve 2 or 3 but I recommend using a VOES but that's me.

Thanks Scotty, I'll look into how to set up Voes.
Cheers 👍

[Adam76]

Made a little more progress yesterday.  Got the dyna 2000i and new coil installed and the wiring done. Had to go back in to hook the VOES back up. I haven't tested the switch, but I'm assuming it's still working. Got the carb back on, had a little trouble with the breather tube that runs up and over the carb - they don't like mikuni carbs apparently and had to hacksaw the top piece and run a hose in order to get the clearance needed.
I have the tank and new fuels lines and refurbished petcock ready for install. 

[Scotty]

You can actually get the banjo bits that go from the breather individually and run straight down and tee them up under the carb and run the hose to the ground. With yours currently since you already cut it just cut both sides evenly and point them downwards and do the same although you will have to block the double one off in one vent.
Also the mikuni is already tight under the tank I wonder if your breather will be rubbing on the tank if you leave it like that.
[attach=0,msg1370111]

[Adam76]

You can actually get the banjo bits that go from the breather individually and run straight down and tee them up under the carb and run the hose to the ground. With yours currently since you already cut it just cut both sides evenly and point them downwards and do the same although you will have to block the double one off in one vent.
Also the mikuni is already tight under the tank I wonder if your breather will be rubbing on the tank if you leave it like that.
[attach=0,msg1370111]

Thanks Scotty, that's a great idea.

I want really happy with the way the breather tube turned out.

EasyR has them.  👍

[Hossamania]

No, you don't run the hose to the backing plate. Plug the hole in the plate (make sure whatever you use doesn't come loose and get sucked into the carb!). I used a bolt and two nuts, red loctite.
Run the two hoses down around the bottom of the carb, tee them together, extend a single hose to the ground.
This keeps the carb from sucking the oil mist from the motor into the carb and getting it gunked up, and helps keep carbon from building up on the pistons.
Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads on how to do it. People also use catch cans to collect the water and oil blow-by.

[Adam76]

No, you don't run the hose to the backing plate. Plug the hole in the plate (make sure whatever you use doesn't come loose and get sucked into the carb!). I used a bolt and two nuts, red loctite.
Run the two hoses down around the bottom of the carb, tee them together, extend a single hose to the ground.
This keeps the carb from sucking the oil mist from the motor into the carb and getting it gunked up, and helps keep carbon from building up on the pistons.
Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads on how to do it. People also use catch cans to collect the water and oil blow-by.

Thanks Hoss,  I'll check it out.
Cheers 👍