Build progress and pushrod question

[Scotty]

Use a multi meter and probe each wire and see if the switch activates that way if it does then the wiring is wrong and if it doesn't then the switch is buggered.

[Adam76]

Use a multi meter and probe each wire and see if the switch activates that way if it does then the wiring is wrong and if it doesn't then the switch is buggered.

Thanks Scotty, you're a legend.

I did this and found that I had 12V going to the switch and then it cutting in and out when depressing the switch plunger - so my switch was good.

Then I traced my wiring right back to the connector and turns out one of the wires just wasn't quite pushed in deep enough into the connector!! 

Back in business.
Cheers

[Scotty]

Also for your side lamps/spot lights they get their power from the lo/hi beam white and yellow wire and that runs to one side of the switch. Check if you have power there at the switch and if not work your way back.

[Adam76]

Also for your side lamps/spot lights they get their power from the lo/hi beam white and yellow wire and that runs to one side of the switch. Check if you have power there at the switch and if not work your way back.

thanks.  My spotlight switch only has the two grey  wires from the spotlights themselves and one singe black wire from the headlight - both going to the spotlight switch?

[Scotty]

thanks.  My spotlight switch only has the two grey  wires from the spotlights themselves and one singe black wire from the headlight - both going to the spotlight switch?

Check that black wire in the headlight then as it carries the power so should have 12v power when ignition on.

[kd]

Use a multi meter and probe each wire and see if the switch activates that way if it does then the wiring is wrong and if it doesn't then the switch is buggered.

Thanks Scotty, you're a legend.

I did this and found that I had 12V going to the switch and then it cutting in and out when depressing the switch plunger - so my switch was good.

Then I traced my wiring right back to the connector and turns out one of the wires just wasn't quite pushed in deep enough into the connector!! 

Back in business.
Cheers

Adam, I have found several problems internally in those plugs.  It seems the pins (and sockets) are sometimes not latching inside properly.  Although it may have been working previously once unplugged and then re-connected, one wire will push the other back out of the connector.  If a pin in the group doesn't line up with the corresponding socket one or the other is forced out of its position.  I look at the end to make sure they are all at the proper depth and hold the wires at the back of the plug when reinstalling to make sure they all slide together as intended.

[Scotty]

Adam, I have found several problems internally in those plugs.  It seems the pins (and sockets) are sometimes not latching inside properly.  Although it may have been working previously once unplugged and then re-connected, one wire will push the other back out of the connector.  If a pin in the group doesn't line up with the corresponding socket one or the other is forced out of its position.  I look at the end to make sure they are all at the proper depth and hold the wires at the back of the plug when reinstalling to make sure they all slide together as intended.

Once clicked into place correctly and the locking wedge put in they should not be able to move.
In the photo below you can see the locking wedges in place.
[attach=0]

[kd]

"
Once clicked into place correctly and the locking wedge put in they should not be able to move.
In the photo below you can see the locking wedges in place."


Scotty, I get that.  I even bought new pins and connector blocks (not expensive) to cure the problem. I even have some common spares now. The key word is "should" but you don't know if it was assembled "by force" the previous time or not. They "should" click into the lock in the holder, and they "should' line up on assembly but sometimes they don't. The male pin is very pliable in it's position and that side can bend off center and if not noticed can be a problem finding it's mate.

[Adam76]

Use a multi meter and probe each wire and see if the switch activates that way if it does then the wiring is wrong and if it doesn't then the switch is buggered.

Thanks Scotty, you're a legend.

I did this and found that I had 12V going to the switch and then it cutting in and out when depressing the switch plunger - so my switch was good.

Then I traced my wiring right back to the connector and turns out one of the wires just wasn't quite pushed in deep enough into the connector!! 

Back in business.
Cheers

Adam, I have found several problems internally in those plugs.  It seems the pins (and sockets) are sometimes not latching inside properly.  Although it may have been working previously once unplugged and then re-connected, one wire will push the other back out of the connector.  If a pin in the group doesn't line up with the corresponding socket one or the other is forced out of its position.  I look at the end to make sure they are all at the proper depth and hold the wires at the back of the plug when reinstalling to make sure they all slide together as intended.

Thanks kd, I think I was experiencing this exact problem on the left side hand controls connector. That one works now after resetting all the pins in the connector.
Cheers 

[Adam76]

thanks.  My spotlight switch only has the two grey  wires from the spotlights themselves and one singe black wire from the headlight - both going to the spotlight switch?

Check that black wire in the headlight then as it carries the power so should have 12v power when ignition on.

Thanks Scotty, I'll do this today and report back. I have a feeling this somehow may be a problem.
Cheers

[Scotty]

"
Once clicked into place correctly and the locking wedge put in they should not be able to move.
In the photo below you can see the locking wedges in place."


Scotty, I get that.  I even bought new pins and connector blocks (not expensive) to cure the problem. I even have some common spares now. The key word is "should" but you don't know if it was assembled "by force" the previous time or not. They "should" click into the lock in the holder, and they "should' line up on assembly but sometimes they don't. The male pin is very pliable in it's position and that side can bend off center and if not noticed can be a problem finding it's mate.

I suppose if a ham fisted person had played with it before but I pull them apart all the time and have the proper tool for crimping DT & DTM and I have never had a wire back out.

[kd]

    

[Adam76]

Thanks guys, all wiring fixed now...

Last part of the puzzle was the grey wire giving power to the aux spot lights had pulled loose inside the spotlight bucket itself 😖
So now all is well.

Now for the fun part - fuel tank is going on,  exhaust on and ready to fire it up for the first time.

[Scotty]

Thanks guys, all wiring fixed now...

Last part of the puzzle was the grey wire giving power to the aux spot lights had pulled loose inside the spotlight bucket itself 😖
So now all is well.

Now for the fun part - fuel tank is going on,  exhaust on and ready to fire it up for the first time.

There you go you fixed it. But did you know in the wiring diagram that grey/black wire is white for Australia and yellow for every other country.
[attach=0]

[Adam76]

Thanks Scotty,  I didn't see that in my FSM -  the printing was faded and the writing extremely small. But good to know.
I tried to exactly match the wiring colours that were already on the bike as it was all working before the disassembly and reassembly. 

[Hossamania]

Thanks Scotty,  I didn't see that in my FSM -  the printing was faded and the writing extremely small. But good to know.
I tried to exactly match the wiring colours that were already on the bike as it was all working before the disassembly and reassembly. 

I have two or three magnifying glasses in the garage for these situations, and the camera on your phone can be your friend here too.

[98fxstc]

Getting close Adam 

[rigidthumper]

Still on the lift? 1 more recommendation; Spark plugs out, in high gear, rear wheel elevated, roll the back wheel forward through a dozen engine rotations to make sure everything feels alright. If so, back to neutral, use starter, in 10 second bursts, to rotate engine long enough for the oil light to go out. If all of that seems OK, plugs back in, restore all connections, and do the first heat cycle.

[Adam76]

Getting close Adam 

Yes, thanks to all the kind and knowledgeable folks here.   

[Adam76]

Still on the lift? 1 more recommendation; Spark plugs out, in high gear, rear wheel elevated, roll the back wheel forward through a dozen engine rotations to make sure everything feels alright. If so, back to neutral, use starter, in 10 second bursts, to rotate engine long enough for the oil light to go out. If all of that seems OK, plugs back in, restore all connections, and do the first heat cycle.

Thanks rigidthumper, I've already done the few dozen rotations with the rear wheel off the lift and all seemed smooth.  Now I'm ready to do the 10 second bursts with no plugs. Is that just to get oil pressure up?
Thanks

[Scotty]

Is that just to get oil pressure up?

Yes do it until the oil pressure light goes out.
It does not take long but can pickup a problem with pump flow before you start.

And don't do it 10 times and then realize you forgot to put oil in 

[rigidthumper]

 

[Adam76]

Is that just to get oil pressure up?

Yes do it until the oil pressure light goes out.
It does not take long but can pickup a problem with pump flow before you start.

And don't do it 10 times and then realize you forgot to put oil in 

Yeah, I put oil in all 3 holes a while back just to be sure. 😂

[Adam76]

Last day on the lift before the first heat  cycle 😁

Merry Christmas to everyone, all the best and thanks again for all the help and advice on this build.
God bless.

[Hossamania]

Looks good, getting exciting now!