Build progress and pushrod question

[14Frisco]

SCA 12V 2.5 Amp 3 Stage Battery Charger

3 stages: 1: Bulk (Boost) / 2: Absorption / 3: Float

[Hossamania]

You can use that charger, just disconnect it once it reads full charge.

[Scotty]

Get a CTEK charger/maintainer lots of places sell them and this is the model I use on the Harley
https://www.ctek.com/au/all-products/car/xs-0-8-aus

[kd]

I use a CTEK Lithium charger for my AG 970 CCA battery.  Like the one that Scotty posted it charges in stages and protects the battery from overcharge effect.  The lead acid one uses a low power ripple rate.  I have watched mine through the cycles and you can tell where you are at by the lamps.

[JW113]

I have two of these. Guaranteed not to fry batteries, and claims to de-sulfate.

https://www.pulsetech.net/store/12v-24v-battery-chargers/12v-maintenance-chargers/xc100-p-xtreme-charge-12v-battery-maintenance-charger-desulfator.html

-JW

[Adam76]

THANK YOU EVERYONE  FOR YOUR HELP ON THIS BUILD.

It's alive and running.
Tried to attach a short video of the first heat cycle, but file is too big even when compressed.

I'm really pleased with how it all turned out. For ask you folk that helped me with a lot of patience and understanding it's much appreciated.
Have a safe and happy Christmas and a blessed new year.
Adam

[Hossamania]

Congrats Adam, it's got to feel great to hear it running after all the work you've put in!
Enjoy your first ride, don't lug it or baby it, don't beat on it, and just try to wipe that grin off your face...

[JW113]

Adam that's awesome! Great news, and bro, DON'T FORGET THAT SMELL!! The smell of a fresh rebuild fire up is priceless!!! Can't wait for the report of the first ride, keep 'em coming!!!



-JW

[Scotty]

 

[Adam76]

Adam that's awesome! Great news, and bro, DON'T FORGET THAT SMELL!! The smell of a fresh rebuild fire up is priceless!!! Can't wait for the report of the first ride, keep 'em coming!!!



-JW

Thanks JW.  Yep, went for the first test ride yesterday. Put a huge grin on my face 

Even without re-jetting or setting the timing or anything it rode surprisingly well and very smooth. Shifted nicely all it needs is a little clutch adjustment to get the friction zone coming in earlier.

I won't be able to tell how she really runs until I have the full dyno tune and ignition set up and engine broken in.... But from what I can tell now, it's gonna be good!!

[Adam76]

Hehehe... yes group hugs and beers all round.    

Thanks Scotty

[Deye76]

  Good job.

"full dyno tune and ignition set up and engine broken in."
Have your dyno guy break it in on the dyno, = controlled environment.

[thumper 823]

I have not followed closely -But different ring p[acks require different break-in procedures.

[Adam76]

Good job.

"full dyno tune and ignition set up and engine broken in."
Have your dyno guy break it in on the dyno, = controlled environment.

Yeah, thanks deye76, sorry if that wasn't clear.  My dyno tuner is going to break in the engine on the dyno at the time of tuning - as per his advice. I think some people may not agree with the "break in on the dyno" process but I'm good with it unless advised otherwise.

Cheers and happy new year.

[kd]

They won't agree only if they don't understand 

[Hossamania]

Mine was broken in on the Dyno, when I got it back there was no "take it easy for 500 miles", it came out of the shop and immediately got hell beat out of it.
90,000 miles of abuse so far, uses no oil to speak of, still runs great.

[Deye76]

I've had 3 motors broken in on the dyno, excellent results.
Smart move Adam. 

[thumper 823]

I have learned the hard way a dyno is only as smart as the operator(S)
If they don't ask questions or dont pay attn to your situation your problems are in the mail.
We used to do (prolly still do) dyno days out on the West coast.
The operator would always interrogate us b4 the start.
It was a fun day for comparisons.
So, Does he know what kind of rings you have?
What type of hone finish was used?
Or is all the same treatment for everyone?  (that might be a clue)
To demonstrate my point- if you use brand X and someone else uses brand Y rings, there are material differences!
Then there is the universal theory nowadays of micro-welding at break-in. I am now a believer!
two times now i have come out with less than 3% leak dwn!
  Rings are the most neglected part of the engine!
Most people just throw them in, never giving them the love that they need.
Using rasp files, chain saw files, no ring expanders, never deburring them, never washing etc etc.
These people just make me flinch at their ignorance or arrogance ..whichever it is.
  Then they question why they have 10% leak dwn numbers!

[kd]

Having it on a dyno with strict control of the AF and timing is the key. Using a startup or so-called break-in tune flashed in is an unknown.  Each engine is different even with the same components.  Just the pipe can make the difference that can do irreparable damage.  To rich or too lean, I just want to take it for a short ride,  . All you need is a few (and only a few) short heat cycles to confirm no leaks olr strange sounds. That's the only thing a "break-in tune should be used for.  Many get away with it but the risk is high you'll kill the engine or longevity.  That is an expert opinion shared by many. 

If I am building an expensive engine and use a shop to tune it just because they have a dyno, shame on me. If you are sharp enough to research and build an engine you need to understand the importance of a comprehensive tune and where to find one. If a dyno operator was to tell me to go put 500 miles or more on it and bring it back, I would run as far away as I could.  The first part of a tune is setting the safe parameters having full control of all conditions.  As the tune progresses the light throttle and low rpm conditions, decel etc. are dialed in.  In effect that IS breaking in the engine.  The rings and hone are another discussion that is mostly mute these days.  I travel 9 hrs one way to the closest tuner that I can trust with my investment and he loves to make power.  Most try to find a dyno "machine" (and that's all it is) as close as possible and will end up defaulting to some sort of flash the operator uses to save time and money and a few WFO hard pulls for a fancy sheet of paper. No heat or knock tracking or AFR. 

Added later

Using a good lighter dyno oil like Rotella T 10/40 oil and new filter for the heat cycles then an oil and filter change to a 20/50 for the dyno is a good idea.  You're going to end up with 4 to 6 hrs and about 50 miles on the drum and I personally change it again to what I will be using (even if syn).  Time to ride it normally after that.

[JW113]

Just to keep the train on the tracks...

He has a 1996 Softail. There is nothing to flash or program. And I think we've been through a safe jetting for initial start up on another thread.

I would never argue against break in on a dyno with a competent tuner. That said, I've never done it personally. Every last engine build I've done, and there have been many, was done the old school method. And I can't imagine the end results were any different than if done on a dyno. But again, if you have the access and the money, go for it!

-JW

[kd]

   Damn, this may be the second time I lost track of what bike it was in this thread.    

Where I was coming from is EFI.  I think it's a different world with the EFI.  Canned tunes are troublesome and bad ones have been discussed here plenty. If it has to be tuned any way, as is the way it is with EFI, the tuner has to (should) be going through all of the same areas that will add up to a break in period.  It will be hooked up to the sensors and timing so it is possible to have a "no guess" safe map that is perfect. 

It doesn't really come down to having enough money.  A tune is part of the build cost and must be considered in the budget. I would have been a fool to build my 145 /150 120 and run it on the 103 OEM tune.  That is if it did run on it. I won't even admit what I put into the engine.  It was worth every penny and I expected it to cost as much for the quality of components used. 

[thumper 823]

Anyone and everyone should have their very own AFR gauge on the bike, esp for the first run up!  (unless of course, it is almost bone stock)
Knowing the AFR,
Knowing heat cycles is the battle to be won to win the war.
The first few startups according to people brighter than most of here is the key to well-seated rings.



 

[JW113]

KD, I'm with you there. FI is indeed a whole nuther ball game, and unlike a klunky old carburetor that will run OK if it's just in the ball park, a bad FI map has the potential to destroy the motor. So yes, I agree with you 100% on that.

Which goes to explain why I don't own a FI bike, and hopefully, never will!


-JW

[kd]

Ha Ha,    You can do wonders with a screw driver, plug wrench and a hand full of needles and jets.   

[thumper 823]

One can fix a carburetor in the middle of nowhere,
FI cant be fixed in the middle of anywhere.