Build progress and pushrod question

[Pete_Vit]

No, you don't run the hose to the backing plate. Plug the hole in the plate (make sure whatever you use doesn't come loose and get sucked into the carb!). I used a bolt and two nuts, red loctite.
Run the two hoses down around the bottom of the carb, tee them together, extend a single hose to the ground.
This keeps the carb from sucking the oil mist from the motor into the carb and getting it gunked up, and helps keep carbon from building up on the pistons.
Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads on how to do it. People also use catch cans to collect the water and oil blow-by.

that's kinda how I did the Sporty, but instead of teeing i connected one of those breather filters under the carb conencted in the middle, but the same idea - the Springer I did something like what you suggest works well 

[Adam76]

No, you don't run the hose to the backing plate. Plug the hole in the plate (make sure whatever you use doesn't come loose and get sucked into the carb!). I used a bolt and two nuts, red loctite.
Run the two hoses down around the bottom of the carb, tee them together, extend a single hose to the ground.
This keeps the carb from sucking the oil mist from the motor into the carb and getting it gunked up, and helps keep carbon from building up on the pistons.
Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads on how to do it. People also use catch cans to collect the water and oil blow-by.

that's kinda how I did the Sporty, but instead of teeing i connected one of those breather filters under the carb conencted in the middle, but the same idea - the Springer I did something like what you suggest works well

Thanks, I thought about joining the 2 breather hoses with a breather filler sitting just below the carb - but then I thought that oil may drop on the motor?

[Hossamania]

No need to spend money on that. Turn the breather tubes down, cap the extra barb, Run the hose down below the carb, tee them, continue single tube below the frame, whichever route you want, front or back of the motor. I don't filter it, some guys do, many run to a catch can and empty it occasionally. Some worry about the oil getting on the back tire, some don't. I don't. Not much comes out, especially while running. Mostly on startup. Many, many posts on this site with different solutions. I think my brass tee cost a couple dollars, couple small hose clamps, $2 in 3/8 hose.
I'll try and post some up other threads here.

[Hossamania]

Try this one, post #18 has a pic.
https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,100230.0.html

[Adam76]

No need to spend money on that. Turn the breather tubes down, cap the extra barb, Run the hose down below the carb, tee them, continue single tube below the frame, whichever route you want, front or back of the motor. I don't filter it, some guys do, many run to a catch can and empty it occasionally. Some worry about the oil getting on the back tire, some don't. I don't. Not much comes out, especially while running. Mostly on startup. Many, many posts on this site with different solutions. I think my brass tee cost a couple dollars, couple small hose clamps, $2 in 3/8 hose.
I'll try and post some up other threads here.

Thanks, I have just read a bunch of threads..... I have the brass T piece and a 1/4" hose routed down to under the engine. No filter on the end currently.
👍

[kd]

I'll suggest you avoid placing the end of the hose in a position where the wind when traveling can reach it.  It can set up a low pressure at the tip of the hose and draw from the vent line.  This can introduce oilier air direct from the heads and increase the discharge.  Well placed there often is less than an occasional drip from a healthy engine.

Some of the members here mentioned that their filter became contaminated to the point it wouldn't vent anymore.  No filter = no problem.

[Adam76]

I'll suggest you avoid placing the end of the hose in a position where the wind when traveling can reach it.  It can set up a low pressure at the tip of the hose and draw from the vent line.  This can introduce oilier air direct from the heads and increase the discharge.  Well placed there often is less than an occasional drip from a healthy engine.

Some of the members here mentioned that their filter became contaminated to the point it wouldn't vent anymore.  No filter = no problem.

Agreed.  👍   can you please suggest the best point for the end of the tube to exit under the bike?  See my post below. 
Thanks

[Adam76]

This is currently where mine is. It's the larger tube exciting with the smaller tube that vents from the carb itself.

[Hossamania]

That's about where mine is as well.

[kd]

I would be tempted to pull it up out of the air stream for the reasons I mentioned. The same with the carb vent. The ones I have that don't go to a catch can end farther back near the fuel tank and battery vent lines directly behind the transmission and up out of the direct air flow. It'll pass easily under the transmission case and can be terminated without turning it down. 

[Adam76]

I would be tempted to pull it up out of the air stream for the reasons I mentioned. The same with the carb vent. The ones I have that don't go to a catch can end farther back near the fuel tank and battery vent lines directly behind the transmission and up out of the direct air flow. It'll pass easily under the transmission case and can be terminated without turning it down.

Ok,  just when I have everything plumbed in and zip tied  😁

At least I've sorted out the breather and it's a lot better than what I started with. I'll see if I can get some longer hose to go behind the transmission.

[Hossamania]

Looks good. Because I'm kind of a nut job, I painted the tee and clamps black. And of course I had to orient the clamps so they all went the same way. OCD is a bitch sometimes.
Getting close to firing that thing up!

[Adam76]

Looks good. Because I'm kind of a nut job, I painted the tee and clamps black. And of course I had to orient the clamps so they all went the same way. OCD is a bitch sometimes.
Getting close to firing that thing up!

Yes,  I did think about the black paint.... for about 3 minutes and then couldn't be bothered.

And yes, getting close to firing it up 😁
Thanks to all the great help I've received from you kind folk. 👍

[lumberjacklloyd]

I would be tempted to pull it up out of the air stream for the reasons I mentioned. The same with the carb vent. The ones I have that don't go to a catch can end farther back near the fuel tank and battery vent lines directly behind the transmission and up out of the direct air flow. It'll pass easily under the transmission case and can be terminated without turning it down.

Ok,  just when I have everything plumbed in and zip tied  😁

At least I've sorted out the breather and it's a lot better than what I started with. I'll see if I can get some longer hose to go behind the transmission.

What air cleaner set up is that?

[Pete_Vit]

No, you don't run the hose to the backing plate. Plug the hole in the plate (make sure whatever you use doesn't come loose and get sucked into the carb!). I used a bolt and two nuts, red loctite.
Run the two hoses down around the bottom of the carb, tee them together, extend a single hose to the ground.
This keeps the carb from sucking the oil mist from the motor into the carb and getting it gunked up, and helps keep carbon from building up on the pistons.
Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads on how to do it. People also use catch cans to collect the water and oil blow-by.

that's kinda how I did the Sporty, but instead of teeing i connected one of those breather filters under the carb conencted in the middle, but the same idea - the Springer I did something like what you suggest works well

Thanks, I thought about joining the 2 breather hoses with a breather filler sitting just below the carb - but then I thought that oil may drop on the motor?

it didn't on my Evo Sporty, since the bike is now on the stand and waiting to get a new life, I may reroute it based on other's idea's 

[Adam76]

I would be tempted to pull it up out of the air stream for the reasons I mentioned. The same with the carb vent. The ones I have that don't go to a catch can end farther back near the fuel tank and battery vent lines directly behind the transmission and up out of the direct air flow. It'll pass easily under the transmission case and can be terminated without turning it down.

Ok,  just when I have everything plumbed in and zip tied  😁

At least I've sorted out the breather and it's a lot better than what I started with. I'll see if I can get some longer hose to go behind the transmission.

What air cleaner set up is that?

It's one that I thought was an S&S but sadly isn't. It's got "Eagle Iron" or similar stamped on it and it's been difficult to work with.  The backing plate didn't really fit, the mounting tabs and components needed modification to make it work / fit. It only takes one particular special shape/ type air cleaner element that I couch find a replacement for, and is not compatible with any S&S parts or components. 
I stuck with it, cleaned the element with a recharge kit and after much swearing and busted knuckles it's all mounted and looks good to go.
Cheers

[Scotty]

It's one that I thought was an S&S but sadly isn't. It's got "Eagle Iron" or similar stamped on it and it's been difficult to work with.  The backing plate didn't really fit, the mounting tabs and components needed modification to make it work / fit. It only takes one particular special shape/ type air cleaner element that I couch find a replacement for, and is not compatible with any S&S parts or components. 
I stuck with it, cleaned the element with a recharge kit and after much swearing and busted knuckles it's all mounted and looks good to go.
Cheers

I have the same air cleaner but mine is now modified and mounted with another bracket and way easier to setup if it comes off.

[Adam76]

After all that, I got the electrical gremlins.... 

Turned the ignition on and got the neutral and oil lights and I thought I was doing great. But no headlight, no high beam, no horn, rear brake light only activated by the foot pedal and no right side turnsignals (front or rear) the only things that did work were the left side turnsignals, the rear park light and the rear brake light - from the foot brake pedal...

Good thing I didn't put the fuel tank back on!    I had just finished all the internal handlebar wiring and was thinking how neat it all looked. I used the NAMZ  plug and play extension kit,  so no splicing and soldering. I really spent a lot of time and effort to make sure I didn't have to go back in and pull it all apart..... Checked the fuses and they're all good. Guess I'll be getting my multi meter out tomorrow for some continuity checking. 

[kd]

When you have your meter out, go through the fuses again for continuity.  Seeing is not necessarily believing when it comes to those fuses.  I've had them look good but are actually open.  You also have enough different circuits involved you may be able to find the leads common to them only and focus there.

[Adam76]

When you have your meter out, go through the fuses again for continuity.  Seeing is not necessarily believing when it comes to those fuses.  I've had them look good but are actually open.  You also have enough different circuits involved you may be able to find the leads common to them only and focus there.

Thanks kd, will check the fuses.

What/ how do I check an individual circuit? I take one look at the wiring diagrams in the FSM and it looks like Egyptian hydroglyphics 

[Scotty]

What/ how do I check an individual circuit? I take one look at the wiring diagrams in the FSM and it looks like Egyptian hydroglyphics 

reading a wiring diagram just takes a bit of time to learn but in the meantime check that you extended the wires in the correct colour and that they match up to the plugs where then go in the main harness (under tank)
You really do need a bright light (sunlight is best) to make sure you have the right colours matched.
Believe me brown and red mix up easy in dull light and white and white with a stripe are also easily mixed.

[Adam76]

What/ how do I check an individual circuit? I take one look at the wiring diagrams in the FSM and it looks like Egyptian hydroglyphics 

reading a wiring diagram just takes a bit of time to learn but in the meantime check that you extended the wires in the correct colour and that they match up to the plugs where then go in the main harness (under tank)
You really do need a bright light (sunlight is best) to make sure you have the right colours matched.
Believe me brown and red mix up easy in dull light and white and white with a stripe are also easily mixed.

Thanks Scotty,  yes the white with the two different coloured stripes was a fun one 

[Adam76]

Ok, seems my main problem was the wires in one of my connectors were not pushed in far enough.

So now I have everything working except can't get the aux spot lights to come on in any setting. Not with low beam or high beam.

Also still have no front brake lever to rear brake light activation - so the small brake light switch at the controls must have got damaged, even though I took extra care when removing and installing the lever and m/c ?

[Scotty]

Ok, seems my main problem was the wires in one of my connectors were not pushed in far enough.

So now I have everything working except can't get the aux spot lights to come on in any setting. Not with low beam or high beam.

Also still have no front brake lever to rear brake light activation - so the small brake light switch at the controls must have got damaged, even though I took extra care when removing and installing the lever and m/c ?

Check the brake light switch is not jammed against the inside of the right control and has the little wedge holding it in place tight.
[attach=0]

[Adam76]

Ok, seems my main problem was the wires in one of my connectors were not pushed in far enough.

So now I have everything working except can't get the aux spot lights to come on in any setting. Not with low beam or high beam.

Also still have no front brake lever to rear brake light activation - so the small brake light switch at the controls must have got damaged, even though I took extra care when removing and installing the lever and m/c ?

Check the brake light switch is not jammed against the inside of the right control and has the little wedge holding it in place tight.
[attach=0,msg1371568]

Thanks Scotty, took apart the front switch housing and the actual brake switch and it's components look ok... the wiring looks good.

From my understanding, when you break/damage  the front brake light switch, the symptom is that the brake stays ON.
My problem is that the  brake light does NOT come on at all with the front brake switch pressed in or out?? I'm even pushing the front brake light switch in and out manually with my finger and still cannot get the rear brake light to illuminate on at all?

Am I supposed to be hearing a relay clicking when I'm doing this?