96CI crank

[07BlackDyna]

Hey guys quick question for the wizards, I currently have a 2007 96Ci Dyna with a stage 1 about 12k miles . The bike runs good no complaints but i want to move to getting a set of cams,cam plate and oil pump upgrade then from there 107 or 110 i haven't decided then do some head work. my worry is the deal with crank runout that I've been seeing online. i don't race the bike i just F around with buddies, Is this something i should be worried about at this state? I'm afraid of doing this work and blowing the motor. Do i spend the money and get the crank done and put the stock jugs and heads back on until i can put money aside for the 107 or 110?   what do you guys think?   

[Don D]

Wait and do it all.

[PoorUB]

Check the crank runout then decide. If it is way out and I don't mean within Harley's spec, get the crank rebuilt  and do whatever you want to the rest. If the crank is good I would take the chance do your build and run it.

If you can't afford to do it all then wait.  Why tear it apart twice?

Start buying parts now and when you are ready rip into it, but be prepared for the extra expense of a crank rebuild.

[harpwrench]

A good place to save money is skip the camplate and oil pump, stock is good enough. A baisley bypass valve and spring are good cheap upgrades for the stock system

[sfmichael]

As with many things in life, the choice often involves compromise.

Unlimited budget? New aftermarket or re-worked stock crank with better rods - no brainer

On a budget? I would check runout as others have suggested, but equally important is to rotate the crank and rods with the cylinders off and see if there are any tight spots or binding / resistance felt while rotating the crank.

I read & hear about lots of failed cranks but have never seen the problem first hand. I worked at a dealer for about a year (not very long I realize) and we did lots of engine builds and not one crank failure. Twin Cam stuff only.

I'd do a 110" drop on cylinder kit with cams and cam bearings. Too many cams will work to recommend - so many good choices.

Head work is high on my list if you can afford it, but not mandatory by any means.

You could upgrade to a 103 for almost nothing but the juice isn't worth the squeeze in my book. I probably have a few sets of low mileage take-offs in my storage unit.

The tune is the biggest player here - all the bolt-ons in the world won't do much without a really good dyno tune.

[Hossamania]

Exhaust also plays a big part.

[sfmichael]

Exhaust also plays a big part.

[Don D]

2007 was not a good year for twin cam cranks and they had the shorter rods which put the pistons down in the hole further.

[Ohio HD]

'99 to '06 TC used 7.667" rods, '07 to '17 TC used 7.659".

Dark horse uses 7.670" on their TC H-beams.

[MikeL]

A friend of mine has a 06 dyna. The crank scissored. That means crank rework or replace. He went replace. S&S 4.00 stroke. I tried to persuade him to go to at least 4.3/8 and bore the cases for 4.125. Anyway it's a 95cid. It's very reliable but no wow factor. He wishes he would have listened to me.
07, if your crank is bad and you have to go for a rework or replace, for what it costs to open up the case to accept 4.125 piston to make it a 117cid. is well worth it for the wow factor. As was said keep the cam backing plate and oil pump.

                                                                                                                                                                   MIKE

[Hossamania]

A 95" with no wow factor means it wasn't set up to have the wow factor. Mine is a 95" and it still makes me say wow once in a while.

[Buglet]

  It depends who's WOW Factor scale you use. It's just like a dyno.

[Hossamania]

That's a tough call on trusting the crank. On the one hand, it would probably be fine. If you ride hard, the odds go down.
110 drop on is probably the best bang for the buck.
But, if you really want a well built, reliable, fast motor, then as suggested, save up your money and do it right. And don't forget the old adage, horsepower is in the heads.
And don't forget the other adage, there is no replacement for displacement.

[07BlackDyna]

thanks for all the responses, i will probably check the crank runout and go from there.   

[1workinman]

 My first bike had 96 inch in it and it was ok I guess pretty reliable motor . Reminded me of my old 1.6 vw diesel .  If I had one I just add a cheap 255 take out cam add a tune and ride it . May be a set of decent lifters .  You can spend a lot of coin on these motors .  Depends on what you want . I really like ridding my scooters in the cool weather lol . If I did not have ether of my bikes I might just buy a new street glide and add the 131 or what ever it is lol

[Appowner]

thanks for all the responses, i will probably check the crank runout and go from there.

Smart move.  But if the crank is anything but near perfect, I'd be inclined to say screw it and save for a complete build.

[autoworker]

Good luck.My 2007 FXD crank had .0088 in. runout on the pinion side.It had low miles and was not abused or ridden hard at the time.

[Ohio HD]

Yeah, no gear drives unless a reworked performance crank or an S&S. And truthfully, unless you're going to wring the life out of the motor, gear drive isn't any advantage. Chains hold up pretty well.

[jamminhd2000]

07 Dyna streetbob with 60k miles. Pinion shaft run out. .0065 and tight rods... jimmy

[autoworker]

07 Dyna streetbob with 60k miles. Pinion shaft run out. .0065 and tight rods... jimmy

That's the risk when the race is the rod and not a separate element.

[autoworker]

Yeah, no gear drives unless a reworked performance crank or an S&S. And truthfully, unless you're going to wring the life out of the motor, gear drive isn't any advantage. Chains hold up pretty well.

Early Twin Cam engines (pre 07 big twins and pre 06 Dynas) with true cranks work well with gear drive cams.The advantage is true and consistent valve timing over the life of the engine.No chain stretch.
True cranks with gear drives set up with proper backlash work extremely well.

Anyone want to FUBAR a crank? Just lock up the rear wheel with the clutch engaged.The higher the engine speed the better.

[autoworker]

-