Dresser battery

[76shuvlinoff]

 Michigan kept 2012 Ultra EG.

Starting begins dropping off at about 3 years on a "factory" battery. I don't notice right away but then I start seeing hot start kickback at the pump or slightly extended cold cranking times. (We're talking a couple extra revs).  The SE comp only has a couple years on it.  This time I put a new battery in right away, and my issues went away.  It was 3 years old to the week. I keep a tender on it in the winter.    Is 3-4 years on a battery about normal or just normal for me?

I was looking at a lithium but for the price I went with stock.

[No Cents]

   I would have to replace the agm batteries in my bagger that spins a 11.18:1 compression 124 over just about every other year because they would show the same symptoms you are talking about. They just grew weaker over time...even with maintaining them. I don't think I ever made it thru a 3rd year without having to replace it.
   The lithium battery that is my bike right now just went thru it's "5th" riding season and it is still spinning my engine over like the plugs are out of it. I'm very impressed with the lithium battery technology. I do keep it on a proper lithium maintainer in the cold winter months here in Ohio.

[motorhogman]

My stock box 01 FLHT was starting to experience hot soak issues at 2 years on a new battery. 

Got about 5 years out of the 1st OEM battery..down hill after that with each OEM replacement



Since I started using a tender and a Duracell battery it seems better.. 26 months now on this one and no sign of hot soak issues. Spins over good regardless of engine temp or how hot of a day it is.

[Ohio HD]

Michigan kept 2012 Ultra EG.

Starting begins dropping off at about 3 years on a "factory" battery. I don't notice right away but then I start seeing hot start kickback at the pump or slightly extended cold cranking times. (We're talking a couple extra revs).  The SE comp only has a couple years on it.  This time I put a new battery in right away, and my issues went away.  It was 3 years old to the week. I keep a tender on it in the winter.    Is 3-4 years on a battery about normal or just normal for me?

I was looking at a lithium but for the price I went with stock.

Easiest way to test it Mark, pull in from a ride long enough to get the motor hot, shut down, wait five minutes, jump start it. If it's good then, it probably getting week. Or you could take the battery after a charge to the auto pars store ask them to load test it.

If the compensator is quiet, all is probably well down there. If not, well the springs do wear out and get flat and weak.

[turboprop]

   I would have to replace the agm batteries in my bagger that spins a 11.18:1 compression 124 over just about every other year because they would show the same symptoms you are talking about. They just grew weaker over time...even with maintaining them. I don't think I ever made it thru a 3rd year without having to replace it.
   The lithium battery that is my bike right now just went thru it's "5th" riding season and it is still spinning my engine over like the plugs are out of it. I'm very impressed with the lithium battery technology. I do keep it on a proper lithium maintainer in the cold winter months here in Ohio.

I have the same experience with lithium batteries in my high compression big blocks. Cannot imagine a scenario where I would choose to run an AGM battery in one of my bikes.

[kd]

   I would have to replace the agm batteries in my bagger that spins a 11.18:1 compression 124 over just about every other year because they would show the same symptoms you are talking about. They just grew weaker over time...even with maintaining them. I don't think I ever made it thru a 3rd year without having to replace it.
   The lithium battery that is my bike right now just went thru it's "5th" riding season and it is still spinning my engine over like the plugs are out of it. I'm very impressed with the lithium battery technology. I do keep it on a proper lithium maintainer in the cold winter months here in Ohio.

I have the same experience with lithium batteries in my high compression big blocks. Cannot imagine a scenario where I would choose to run an AGM battery in one of my bikes.

  X2

My AG 970 CCA lithium battery has a 3 year warranty and all literature says if properly maintained, expect a way longer life.  In my mind that means equal or better dollar value along with 200% better performance.  I think the dollar value is there. (120 cu in / 11.3 : 1)

[Ohio HD]

Michigan kept 2012 Ultra EG.

Starting begins dropping off at about 3 years on a "factory" battery. I don't notice right away but then I start seeing hot start kickback at the pump or slightly extended cold cranking times. (We're talking a couple extra revs).  The SE comp only has a couple years on it.  This time I put a new battery in right away, and my issues went away.  It was 3 years old to the week. I keep a tender on it in the winter.    Is 3-4 years on a battery about normal or just normal for me?

I was looking at a lithium but for the price I went with stock.

Mark, also make sure that the compression releases are opening. A 103" when hot is pretty much why they added them.

[fleetmechanic]

On our escort bikes the DEKA ETX30Ls last usually 4 years and sometimes a little longer.

[Rusticwater]

I used to connect my Dyna AGM battery (which are smaller and less powerful than the touring batteries) to a tender just during winter, but changed to year round. Seemed to make a substantial difference. My last battery went something like 5 years and the only reason I changed it is because I accidentally buggered one of the terminals, it still passed a load test like it was new. I use the "Super Start" brand (Deka) from O'reilly's.

[Nebraskarider1]

At the first sign of a battery getting weak I charge it up with a my charger on medium like 10 amp, then I use my load tester and check it, if it's a little weak I test it about 4 times or till it drops a noticeable amount. Then I charge it up fully again, repeat the load tests again then charge and repeat, it comes up a little higher each time, after about 3 or 4 times it's usually as good as it's gonna get. The other thing I do is charge every battery too 100% before I install it. Learned that when I worked at a parts store with a guy that had been there 35 years, he said almost every battery installed in front of the store would come back in 12-18 months if they wouldn't let him top off the charge before they took it. I got my load tester from HF, WM has similar ones, about $25

Bottom line is I think new stuff starts so quick the batteries don't get loaded enough to boil anything off the plates, my theory

[calif phil]

Newer touring bikes, with security and stereos, three years is good time for a fresh battery.

I use the old battery for my zero turn mower. 

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks guys, maybe next time I'll look at Lithium.  Buddy of mine owns a Marina and was going to get me a good deal on one, Rona hit and shipments were delayed. I wanted a new battery before I headed North solo so I just stopped at the dealer and picked up another AGM.

Mark, also make sure that the compression releases are opening. A 103" when hot is pretty much why they added them.

Always seems to spin well except for that hot start thing at 3 years. Never bogs down like my shovel will.

[Hossamania]

I also charge them before first use, if not an emergency install. I use a regular Tender, but I also have a Battery Minder that reconditions older batteries. I seem to get extra life out of my batteries with it. It even brings back some dead batteries. My lawnmower battery is 19 years old and still spins over fine.

[attach=0,msg1362509]

[smoserx1]

I got about 4 years and a month out of a Duracell, which I believe is the same as a Deka.  It was getting pretty weak.  Found a Deka on ebay for about $115 + tax and almost got it but I got a Yuasa GYZ32HL for $20 more.  Right out of the box it tested 12.92 volts which is about 3 tenths better than anything I ever had before, even new.  The Duracell was down to 12.54 (same meter, sat for 24 hours or more).  This new battery spins my engine hard.  I hope it will last; never had a Yuasa AGM but used their wet batteries all the time long ago.  Good luck with whatever u get.

[Breeze]

3 yrs. is the average life my 2007 96in. Electra Glide gets from a battery. First indication of going bad in this bike is the heat soak kick back.

[tommy g]

Oddly enough the battery that came in my 09 Heritage is still giving good service. Mild comp tho at 10.8

[crock]

Oddly enough the battery that came in my 09 Heritage is still giving good service. Mild comp tho at 10.8

Should have never said that   

[tommy g]

Oddly enough the battery that came in my 09 Heritage is still giving good service. Mild comp tho at 10.8

Should have never said that   

You are right, is it too late to retract?

[Big Cahuna]

I just replaced my battery, a Big Crank after 6 years on the dot. Can't really complain. I always have it hooked to a tender when it's not out of the garage, but have had a problem with it I believe. 2 weeks ago I went out for a ride. The tender said it was charged 100% with a solid green light. Well, 3 starts later all I got from it was a tick. Had to get it towed when even a jump from a car didn't make a difference. Tried charging the battery at home, showed 12.8 volts and still nothing but a tick. Got a new 12 volt 30 amp hr, 420 cca battery and it started like the day it was made. Took it for a test ride with a couple of starts with no issue. Went home and hooked up the tender, and the red light switched from blinking to solid red, but never went to green. I bought it 6 years ago with the battery. Went on line an saw it had a 5 year warranty. Seems they know exactly how long these things will last. I did find a few u tube vids on how to fix them if they have a certain type of problem involving a bad capacitor.  But not mine with a continues charging issue.,,,

[Hossamania]

Check the charging system on the bike, at idle it should be putting at least 14 volts, preferably more, to the battery.
Also, buy a new tender, not a lot of money, you got your money's worth out of the old one.
I found when my tender seemed to take a long time to charge, still red in the morning from a ride the night before, that my bike's charging system had failed and my battery was way down but got me home.

[Fugawee]

I Found a Blown Fuse on the Tail Going to the Battery Once.  I Couldn't Understand Why the Charger wasn't Working Right.  Checked the Fuse.  Replaced It.  Tender Worked Fine, and Still Is.

[motorhogman]

I just replaced my battery, a Big Crank after 6 years on the dot. Can't really complain. I always have it hooked to a tender when it's not out of the garage, but have had a problem with it I believe. 2 weeks ago I went out for a ride. The tender said it was charged 100% with a solid green light. Well, 3 starts later all I got from it was a tick. Had to get it towed when even a jump from a car didn't make a difference. Tried charging the battery at home, showed 12.8 volts and still nothing but a tick. Got a new 12 volt 30 amp hr, 420 cca battery and it started like the day it was made. Took it for a test ride with a couple of starts with no issue. Went home and hooked up the tender, and the red light switched from blinking to solid red, but never went to green. I bought it 6 years ago with the battery. Went on line an saw it had a 5 year warranty. Seems they know exactly how long these things will last. I did find a few u tube vids on how to fix them if they have a certain type of problem involving a bad capacitor.  But not mine with a continues charging issue.,,,

I went through two battery tender plus models in a very short period of time.. We have a lot of thunder storms here in the South and even without a direct lightning hit it seems to fry them. I forget exactly how long, maybe 3 years or so.. I then went to HF and bought a Viking tender.. 4 amp if needed for a low battery.. It has a LCD which shows the actual voltage. Checked it against my digital multi meter and it's very accurate.  Cost was less than half of the battery tender.