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Riding the clutch

Started by electrajohnt, September 28, 2020, 10:18:35 AM

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PoorUB

why are aftermarket levers for a Harley $120 and aftermarket levers for my Yamaha R! are $20??
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Admiral Akbar

The slip/assist clutch sucks.  I replaced mine with a Scorpion.

Hossamania

Quote from: Admiral Akbar on September 29, 2020, 06:28:43 PM
The slip/assist clutch sucks.  I replaced mine with a Scorpion.

:up:  I agree, it sucks. It's not needed.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

harpwrench

On my 16 flhtk I put the top of the fork tubes about 10mm above the upper tree, this makes the chassis feel much more neutral and helps a lot in low speed situations.

Hossamania

Quote from: harpwrench on September 29, 2020, 07:52:08 PM
On my 16 flhtk I put the top of the fork tubes about 10mm above the upper tree, this makes the chassis feel much more neutral and helps a lot in low speed situations.

That's an interesting fix, I had not heard of that before.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

electrajohnt

Hossamania said" I was a wreck when I got to the top" They are the ones you remember best!
JohnT

Ohio HD

Quote from: Hossamania on September 29, 2020, 08:00:34 PM
Quote from: harpwrench on September 29, 2020, 07:52:08 PM
On my 16 flhtk I put the top of the fork tubes about 10mm above the upper tree, this makes the chassis feel much more neutral and helps a lot in low speed situations.

That's an interesting fix, I had not heard of that before.

Sliding the forks in the trees has been around since the early motocross and enduro days. You fine tune the rake and trail for different riding conditions.

Hossamania

Quote from: Ohio HD on September 30, 2020, 03:12:45 AM
Quote from: Hossamania on September 29, 2020, 08:00:34 PM
Quote from: harpwrench on September 29, 2020, 07:52:08 PM
On my 16 flhtk I put the top of the fork tubes about 10mm above the upper tree, this makes the chassis feel much more neutral and helps a lot in low speed situations.

That's an interesting fix, I had not heard of that before.

Sliding the forks in the trees has been around since the early motocross and enduro days. You fine tune the rake and trail for different riding conditions.

That part I knew about, I just hadn't heard it being done on an Ultra.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

harpwrench

The way they clamp on the Rushmore bikes makes it super easy, earlier ones wouldn't be. A little adjustment can make a big difference, 10mm works for me 2up with a trailer but might be too much for someone else- simple to tune it to your needs if you wanna try it.

electrajohnt

Quote from: harpwrench on September 30, 2020, 07:06:01 AM
The way they clamp on the Rushmore bikes makes it super easy, earlier ones wouldn't be. A little adjustment can make a big difference, 10mm works for me 2up with a trailer but might be too much for someone else- simple to tune it to your needs if you wanna try it.
Harpwrench. Minimum for effect and what is the effect. Say 5mm pulled through the yokes (triple clamps) what impact will that have on the steering/handling.
JohnT

harpwrench

September 30, 2020, 03:52:37 PM #35 Last Edit: September 30, 2020, 03:56:38 PM by harpwrench
Too much weight on front will make it steer heavy, not enough feels tippy approaching stop signs and wants to fall to the inside of turns on blacktops. When it's balanced it holds a line better in curves/turns, feels more planted in general, and at stop signs. I think it has more to do with weight distribution than rake/trail. This is just my experience with it, not a chassis expert but I've put 90k on my '16 and it hasn't caused me any problems. 5mm will feel different enough for you to know you did something, good place to start and you can tune from there.

CVOThunder

Quote from: ziggy24 on September 29, 2020, 05:35:24 AM
and there is this: https://rekluse.com/product/slave-cylinder-assembly-hd/

If you have the Rekluse Torq-drive clutch plate kit, the other slaves will not work, as the slave travel is not enough to completely disengage the clutch.  Ask me how I know.

Went that route on my 2020 as part of the 131 build. Never rode the bike in stock form, it kicks a$$.
Photons by the bag. Gravitons not  shipped outside the US.

Nastytls

Just the clutch disks, or did you add a lock up, like the AIM?


Quote from: CVOThunder on September 30, 2020, 11:39:13 PM
Quote from: ziggy24 on September 29, 2020, 05:35:24 AM
and there is this: https://rekluse.com/product/slave-cylinder-assembly-hd/

If you have the Rekluse Torq-drive clutch plate kit, the other slaves will not work, as the slave travel is not enough to completely disengage the clutch.  Ask me how I know.

Went that route on my 2020 as part of the 131 build. Never rode the bike in stock form, it kicks a$$.

Bigs

I have a 17 RK and I had problems with the clutch. I couldn't turn around in the street with the stock clutch, making slow turns was very hard. I got a Aim clutch slave and it made all the difference, now I have no problems making slow turns or turning around in the road. It was well worth the money.
   Bigs

BigT

Quote from: Nastytls on September 29, 2020, 04:57:13 AM
Does anyone know if the AIM or Muller works with a Barnett or Bandit clutch on the M8?
I tried running the AIM slave unit with the Bandit clutch. It was super easy to pull in the clutch lever in but I couldn't find neutral with the bike running.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: BigT on November 28, 2020, 05:08:55 PM
Quote from: Nastytls on September 29, 2020, 04:57:13 AM
Does anyone know if the AIM or Muller works with a Barnett or Bandit clutch on the M8?
I tried running the AIM slave unit with the Bandit clutch. It was super easy to pull in the clutch lever in but I couldn't find neutral with the bike running.

Remove the damping spring.

kd

Quote from: BigT on November 28, 2020, 05:08:55 PM
Quote from: Nastytls on September 29, 2020, 04:57:13 AM
Does anyone know if the AIM or Muller works with a Barnett or Bandit clutch on the M8?
I tried running the AIM slave unit with the Bandit clutch. It was super easy to pull in the clutch lever in but I couldn't find neutral with the bike running.

With a cable clutch assist like the Muller unit you have to set the pushrod and cable play to a fine minimum to achieve adequate separation.  Any device to lighten pull (cable or hydraulic) does it by changing the ratio (lift). That results in less travel.  Bandit wants to see .070 but mine worked with (IIRC) with just over .050.  I eventually messaged mine to .065ish after wearing in the new clutch cable, using a return spring on the cable in the cover, and securing the outer cable position. I may even get a bit more after a season on that cable. 

I know you are talking hydraulic but my point is you need to set the pushrod at minimum clearance.  As it warms up that clearance grows so you'll be OK.  With pretty well 0 free play cold I get good minimum free play as it warms up.  Try to take up all of the mechanical slack you can and that will pay you back with equivalent extra plate separation.  Check your free play cold and then when hot and you will see it happening. Use a dial gauge on the plate to measure lift and check for square lift. .  My Bandit pressure plate also had to be indexed when installed.  It will fit off of the mark but doesn't work well.  I believe the instruction sheet points it out.

What you are struggling with is normal and some throw in the towel.  Others have stuck with it and got great results.
KD