2001 FI Fatboy won't start - Figuring out why

[Snakeoleo]

Fatboy has been trouble free. 17,000 on the odo as I own several bike. Last couple of years it was starting hard and getting worse. Had to crank the throttle in order to get it to fire. More than once, killed the new battery cranking it with no fire.

Cutting to the chase, appeared to be a fuel pressure issue. I have pretty much zero FI experience. So did some research and started down the troubleshooting path. I posted the following on another HD forum that does not have a lot of wrenching activity from what i've seen. So, thought I'd post it here in case it helps the next guy.

First order of business was to measure the male fuel connector that goes into the check valve/quick disconnect on the tank. It's an 11mm diameter. It is step one in confirming that connectors are available off the shelf for building a fuel pressure testing rig using a generic fuel pressure gauge. More on that later.

After measuring, I took a look up the check valve with a mirror and a light. I noticed something that looks like a shaving off an o-ring as I've seen stuff like this before in other systems. I fished it out of the groove with a dental tool and pulled it out with tweezers. Definitely a piece of the o-ring

With that done, moved to cycling the fuel pump and listening for leaks inside the tank. I swore I could hear fuel spraying on the tank wall, but could see nothing thru the filler neck. I decided to make a mirror that would fit into the neck. Side note for fellow wrenches. Tell your wife, girlfriend or if sworn off women, your female relatives to save their make-up compacts that have mirrors. They make great inspection mirrors. I had one in my tool box. Scored it with a carbide lathe tool and snapped off a nice little rectangle that would slip into the filler neck of the tank. Armed with that, some patience and a strong flashlight, I was able to look at the fuel line coming out of the pressure regulator and saw fuel flowing up and over the fuel line when the pump ran. That was all I needed to dive into the tank without measuring fuel pump pressure.

Pulled off the instrument console and removed the screws for the fuel pump assembly mounting plate. Pulled the pump assembly partially out of the tank to snip the crimped clamp and a hole worn thru the fuel line. By the way, the screws in the fuel pump plate were finger tight.

Needless to say, I was on the right track. Cut the clamp, pulled the line off the regulator and removed the pump assembly. With that out, I siphoned the rest of the fuel out of the tank so I could remove the check valve. Another side note, don't go thru the mess of pulling off the cross-over tube from the tank. With the pump assembly removed, you have plenty of room to use a manual siphon to drain the tank so you can remove the check valve with no gas spillage.

Removed the check valve and took the fuel line off the check valve. This is when I gave it a closer inspection and guess what?? MORE HOLES!! 2 more to be exact.

So here is the entire fuel line, with the ends identified and the pencils pointing to the two areas where the holes were worn thru from rubbing on the tank.
[attach=0,msg1365888]

Needless to say, I'm not impressed with the HD design. Bike has only 17K miles on it. I suspect that factory assembly can determine if the line rubs or not. This is why everyone does not have this problem. I'm going to try and figure out the right way when I reassemble. Another thought it to use a cloth sleeve over the line to give it a little more protection. Cloth wire loom might do the trick. High temp clothe sleeve is another option.

Utica HD had the lower fuel line. But it is an assembly that included the check valve. So, instead of a 5 dollar fix, it is a $55.00 fix. Plus they make you buy the hose clamp separately. Utica HD did not have the screws (supposed to use new) nor the top flange gasket in stock. Hylomar and Loctite 567 will solve those two problems.

Also noticed that the coating in my tank was starting to fail. Neck around fuel gauge was a bit rusty. Also the tubing running up to the gauge had blistering coating and there was narrow track of blistered coating on the tunnel. Might just let it go for now since the fuel pump has a filter sock over the intake. Bike is never left outdoors. But, there was a time when I had to run ethanol fuel because the People's Republic of New Yawk banned non-ethanol fuel for a few years. Only run non-ethanol now.

So that's it. I assume when I reassemble, bike will start instantly like it did when it was new.

Since I have a spare check valve now, the quest for over the counter fittings for a fuel pressure gauge adapter just became a lot easier. I think I'll also work on a technique to change the o-ring that does not require $100 worth of tools. Looks pretty easy at first glance. We'll see. I also want to look for an alternative fuel line. I want to believe that standard automotive fuel injection hose can be used. It might make inserting of the pump assembly a bit harder, but suspect it will hold up to wear better than that Tupperware hose that HD uses.

regards,
Rob

[Snakeoleo]

As a side note, had great difficulty posting pictures and decided to edit the post to eliminate all but one. Never had this problem before on any other forum site. Will try again tomorrow with the second chapter to this issue.

regards,
Rob

[Scooterfish]

Slit your old hose and wrap it around the new one for a protection sleeve .

[rigidthumper]

HD supposedly re-designed the new hose (made it shorter) to prevent this issue...

[Scotty]

Since I have a spare check valve now, the quest for over the counter fittings for a fuel pressure gauge adapter just became a lot easier. I think I'll also work on a technique to change the o-ring that does not require $100 worth of tools. Looks pretty easy at first glance. We'll see. I also want to look for an alternative fuel line. I want to believe that standard automotive fuel injection hose can be used. It might make inserting of the pump assembly a bit harder, but suspect it will hold up to wear better than that Tupperware hose that HD uses.

I change those o-rings upper and lower as there is 2 in there with a small blunt screw driver. Takes about 5 minutes and worth the effort to remove the tank from the bike. Don't need a tool to do it and viton o-rings are available for cheap.
Bottom o-ring is BS-905 and top o-ring is BS-109