Looking to buy 2008 96 cube RKC - crank runout concern?

[Adam76]

Are they just taking a big gamble?

....On a mild build I wouldn't worry about the crank, confirm it is good at the time of the build and run it....

......Life's a gamble, you just need to study the odds....

Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers

[PoorUB]

Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers

So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.

Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way. There are hundreds of thousands of nearly stock Harleys that run many miles that are oblivious to the condition of the crankshaft that never have an issue.

IMO, the crankshaft deal is over blown. It needs to be looked over and considered during a build and consider how you ride and how much HP you plan on twisting out of it, but there are 100 times more Harleys out there with the stock crank that is working just fine than ones with rebuilt or S&S cranks.

[Adam76]

Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers

So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.

Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.

Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂

[PoorUB]

Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers

So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.

Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.

Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂

Sure, what what about this comment,

"However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder.."

So, like I asked, no build until you can afford a crankshaft? Because you won't know until the engine is torn down.

[Hossamania]

Ride it for a while, cam and tune once it seems to be a good running bike (or leave it stock) and enjoy it.
Then go full build when you have the money. Or sell it and buy another.
Luckily you have a 2nd hot rod bike to get it out of your system!

[Adam76]

Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers

So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.

Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.

Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂

Sure, what what about this comment,

"However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder.."

So, like I asked, no build until you can afford a crankshaft? Because you won't know until the engine is torn down.

I guess it's just like life then,  just going to have to take that gamble and hope it all holds together 😁.... if not, oh well so be it. 

[Adam76]

Ride it for a while, cam and tune once it seems to be a good running bike (or leave it stock) and enjoy it.
Then go full build when you have the money. Or sell it and buy another.
Luckily you have a 2nd hot rod bike to get it out of your system!

Wise advice!  Yes I probably would look at the CR-5702 cams and a good tune to keep me happy for a while.... from the results I'm seeing with this and a good exhaust, I may not even go any further. 
Cheers

[snowangel]

I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.

[Hossamania]

2008 seems to be the most common model year for sale around here. Tough to find '09 to '13, especially RoadKings. Actually, tough to find RoadKings of any year.

[Ohio HD]

I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.

Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.

I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.

[snowangel]

I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.

Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.

I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.

Wife traded for a 2008 roadking when they first came out. No accesories were available at that time, which was a total pain in the ass.
2007 still has 1 inch wheel bearings, they last forever. 2008 has the thinner bearings and still same tire width as 2007.
2009 Has the new frame with the bigger rear tire that will last for 15,000 miles.

[Ohio HD]

I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.

Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.

I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.

Wife traded for a 2008 roadking when they first came out. No accesories were available at that time, which was a total pain in the ass.
2007 still has 1 inch wheel bearings, they last forever. 2008 has the thinner bearings and still same tire width as 2007.
2009 Has the new frame with the bigger rear tire that will last for 15,000 miles.

All kinds of accessories now, it's been 12 years.
2008 to present touring bikes uses 25mm wheel bearings......
Larger rear tire is fine, new frame is fine. But neither a reason not to buy a 2008.

[tbird]

How about seats? Old frame, new 6 gal tank. Shouldn't buy a bike and have to change a bunch things to make the same as another stock one.

[Ohio HD]

How about seats? Old frame, new 6 gal tank. Shouldn't buy a bike and have to change a bunch things to make the same as another stock one.

How about seats?

HD sells, them, Mustang sells them, Lepera sells them, etc., etc.

http://lepera.com/v4_Touring_Models_result.php

https://www.mustangseats.com/motorcycle-seats



Old frame six gallon tank? Is that something that has to be changed? I didn't change that, it rides just fine that way for the past 86,000 miles.

If you don't like the 2008 model, that's OK. But why talk a guy out of buying one that he wants to build and make his?

Myself and most of the guys on this site change about everything on their bikes, even when bought brand new. 

The 2008 touring bike is basically the same as earlier touring bikes, less some changes that don't amount to much. Gearing is the only thing and six speed that is much different than the earlier bike. gearing can be changed easily, no less than four ways.

(1) front motor sprocket
(2) clutch basket gearing
(3) rear sprocket from 66 to 68 tooth (read above, it's simple)
(4) front sprocket 32 to 31, to 30 but will probably need a belt.

Or you can change them all.......     

[Adam76]

Thanks for all the feedback and info guys, much appreciated.

RKs are hard to find here too... that 2008 that was just for sale has already gone 🙄