Winter build

[Markpisani]

Hey all,

Got my winter build.....actually tear down started. Was a stock TC88. I'm doing this on a budget. I know most guys don't understand that but I'm cheap so want to decide what I really need and for the most part going with used (newer) parts. My bike has 80k kms on it and from what I can tell not much was done to it. Still ran good and everything looks ok.....normal wear.

So far a I have a newer set of 95" jugs and pistons. Have a aftermarket air cleaner....big sucker I think and will be doing a 2 into 1 pipe.

Need to decide on cams and anything else to refresh or upgrade. I'd like to find some new lifters if someone has some in newer condition.

A guy I know has some almost brand new 103" heads from a 2015 street glide I can get for a very decent price. Not sure what I'd gain from this.

I also have two sets of pistons, one are the stock HD flat tops and one is the  SE 10.25:1. Not sure but I'm thinking the flat tops are the way to go.

Pretty new to this stuff and doing everything myself. Not worried about my mechanical ability just my knowledge on what goes well together in terms of a build.

Appreciate any thoughts or advice.

Thanks.

[PoorUB]

Pistons and cam choice will depend on type of build you want.

[rigidthumper]

Year?
Model?
What RPM do you normally shift?
How often do you hit the rev-limiter.
Combined weight of you/passenger/gear?
Describe a typical ride?

Welcome from Kansas City, USA

[Markpisani]

Sorry!

2004 FXDI.

I'm 200 lbs. Mostly ride solo but once in awhile the old lady jumps on but only for very short rides in and around town.

Hit the rev limiter quite often when I got the bike. Starting to learn when to shift better but I like to ride it hard. I like the torque, not so much for cruising the hwy at steady speed for long intervals. No touring really. Like to just get on and cruise around the city and some country roads for couple hours. Also use it as a commuter on the nicer summer days.

[Markpisani]

One more thing. I want a reliable build. Wasn't totally unhappy with the stock performance but since I'm in there figured a few 'easy' upgrades made sense and who doesn't like a bit more power!?  I really don't want to build something that going to be finicky or wear parts though. I'd rather ride than wrench.

Good (and bad) thing here is winter is friggen long!! I live in Alberta. This gives me a bit of a hobby for the next few months.

[rigidthumper]

The late model heads have better exhaust ports, and thin stem valves good for more lift, than your stock heads, so as a bolt on, some improvement, worth it if cheap enough.
Injected bikes need a tuning device and calibrating after modifications.
What is your tuning plan?

95" flat tops with stock gaskets and late heads yield 9:1 compression, a tad low for performance, great for reliability. S&S 509/551 will be snappy

95" 10.25 pistons with late heads/stock gaskets yield 9.9:1, better for performance, and increases the cam choices. TW21, JM 20, HQ34, SE204, Crane 300, TW48, CR570/570-2.
Clearance for any cam/piston combo must be checked/set.

[Hossamania]

I would recommend new lifters over used.

[safetyfifth]

95" 10.25 pistons with late heads/stock gaskets yield 9.9:1, better for performance, and increases the cam choices. TW21, JM 20, HQ34, SE204, Crane 300, TW48, CR570/570-2.

9.9:1 dont think that would be too much for the tw21 and it's fairly early intake close?

Mark, what will you be doing for cam chain tensioners? Going hydraulic or sticking with the spring loaded stock units?
Also if you bounce off the rev limiter as you say, I would highly suggest checking crank run out before you proceed with the build.

[ThumperDeuce]

Cheap and reliable are not two words I would use in the same sentence.

[harpwrench]

Hey all,

...I'm doing this on a budget....

Pretty new to this stuff and doing everything myself. Not worried about my mechanical ability just my knowledge on what goes well together in terms of a build.

Appreciate any thoughts or advice.

Thanks.

I'm guessing the "I" means it's fuel injected? If so then you'll need to budget give or take a grand or so that you might not have expected, to recalibrate the fuel/timing to match the new parts. I'd suggest reading older posts in the AFR and Tuning Zone to prime you on what you're up against.

[FXDBI]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

[838]

I really liked my 95" with the Andrews 48N conversion cams. SE cast flat tops, heads milled to 79cc, .030" head gasket. Cheap, better reliability then stock and the 4" stroke and the 48N play nice together!!! You'll need the street glide heads for the added lift of the 48N.

[rigidthumper]

95" 10.25 pistons with late heads/stock gaskets yield 9.9:1, better for performance, and increases the cam choices. TW21, JM 20, HQ34, SE204, Crane 300, TW48, CR570/570-2.

9.9:1 dont think that would be too much for the tw21 and it's fairly early intake close?

Mark, what will you be doing for cam chain tensioners? Going hydraulic or sticking with the spring loaded stock units?
Also if you bounce off the rev limiter as you say, I would highly suggest checking crank run out before you proceed with the build.

That combo puts him at 9.35:1 corrected, ~196 CCP, and very snappy when tuned properly.   

[Hossamania]

Would that compression be too low for an SE211? Will it work without modifying that head? With the way the op describes his riding style, I think a mid and top end cam fits the bill better than one that runs out of steam before redline. Something like a 57, the 570-2, maybe 555, rather than a 21 or 48?

[Jaystn62]

I agree with Hoss on not trying to go cheap. My build cost me about a third more than I budgeted for but I'm more confident in the build now. Plus if you ride in upper rpm range you'll be paying more in the end for your "budget" build. I've learned a lot from these gearheads. Just having the ability to do a build doesn't mean you have all the knowledge to make it work.

[Markpisani]

I agree. My knowledge is not there right now. You always gotta start somewhere though so I'll learn. It's part of the fun isn't it. I think forums like this will help me get though it and if I make a couple mistakes oh well. Figure if I check, double check and ask I'll mitigate any real costly errors.

Understand I'll have to tune. No plan yet. That's something I'll have to leave to the experts I guess.

When I say cheap I don't mean 'cheap' I just mean I'm not going to drop a ton of $$$ for the best of everything. I do find that a lot of guys really go to the nth degree on everything. It's great if that's what you want and what you can afford but I'm ok with the 80% I can probably get with the 20%
Cost. I'm not interested in spending a ton of cash to chase an extra couple horse. I just want my bike to run and maybe have a bit more kick. 😀

[Hossamania]

Peruse the Dyno section for builds similar to what you're doing, you'll see some combinations that will appeal to you.
Also, consider having your heads cleaned up, not a full-on max horsepower set-up, but just a little porting and smoothing. Check with some of the vendors here, or ask questions and you'll get some direction on what to shoot for. It doesn't have to cost a lot of money, but you'll get a big payback on money spent.
Remember the old adage, horsepower is in the heads.

[Hossamania]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

This sounds like a good combo, keeps the budget reasonable.

[Markpisani]

Seems reasonable to me too. I'll look into those cams.

These heads are brand new btw. Taken off the bike before it left Harley.

[FXDBI]

Seems reasonable to me too. I'll look into those cams.

These heads are brand new btw. Taken off the bike before it left Harley.

Mark this is a  cost efficient combo. Your heads will need a fresh up so the take off would be a good deal. They will also handle more lift than yours. You need to disassemble the cam chest and do a crankshaft run out before you get right into it.  Glad to see you here checking things out like I suggested .Lots of good    information and advice here.  Bob

[Markpisani]

Checking run out this weekend. Had to borrow a dial indicator.

Also have a line on a SE cam plate conversion kit to upgrade my cam tensioner system. Also know where I can get a gear drive cam system but I doubt my run out is going to be tight enough to support that. We will see.

Will also be putting in quickie push rods.

Really want to find some good used lifters. Mine worked fine (stock) but do have 80k on them. Used might not be great but could be an improvement......

[kd]

Lifters are not something to buy used. 

[Hossamania]

That was my thought as well.
Lifters seem to have the biggest fail rate of any other piece in these motors.

[rigidthumper]

Would that compression be too low for an SE211? Will it work without modifying that head? With the way the op describes his riding style, I think a mid and top end cam fits the bill better than one that runs out of steam before redline. Something like a 57, the 570-2, maybe 555, rather than a 21 or 48?

95/211/SE heads @ 78 CC was the original "Hippo" build.
A 211 here would be 8.8 corrected, 182 CCP. (IME, sluggish, but good for top end- I prefer quick to fast)

[Hossamania]

Thanks for that info on the 211. A friend has one in his 95", and yes, even with the heads set up, it is not a low end cam, but it sure comes on nice at mid range, pulling hard to redline.
I have Andrews 55 cams with heads set up for them, same scenario, not great low end cams, but fantastic from mid range up, which is where I like to ride with this bike. This motor has been banged off the limiter thousands and thousands of times, that is no exaggeration.
Not trying to hijack this thread, just exploring cam options for the op, as he seems to ride in a spirited manner on a lighter bike more often than chugging along. I think a mid and upper horsepower cam would work better than a torque cam that runs out of power before redline.
A friend has torquester 555s in his StreetGlide, and they really work well from low end to the limiter, they get there quick.

[rigidthumper]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

[Ohio HD]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

 

[Hossamania]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

 

Depends on how long the race is...

[Markpisani]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

[kd]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

It's called crank runout.  Is your phone putting words in your mouth? 

Go to the Homemade Tool Section.  There is a crank runout checker there.  It will be obvious how it's used.  There are also a number of suppliers of "store bought" versions you can search on-line to find. I saw the other thread you started before it went to the Shed.  I agree that you need to better understand the process before you go any further.  You will get the help you need if you don't run all over the map.  I would use this thread to ask questions as you go to ensure you don't miss any important details.

[Markpisani]

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

[kd]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

It's called crank runout.  Is your phone putting words in your mouth? 

Go to the Homemade Tool Section.  There is a crank runout checker there.  It will be obvious how it's used.  There are also a number of suppliers of "store bought" versions you can search on-line to find. I saw the other thread you started before it went to the Shed.  I agree that you need to better understand the process before you go any further.  You will get the help you need if you don't run all over the map.  I would use this thread to ask questions as you go to ensure you don't miss any important details.

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

OK Mark.  You can put the gun away.  For your information, the phone remark is due to something that happens to me almost every time I fail to check what I typed before pushing send.   

The second paragraph was actually me trying to help but you were blinded by adrenalin caused by you misinterpreting my opening line.    I gave you some info on where to look for a tool that does what you want to do that would also show you what / how it is checked. Remember that you were the one asking how to do it properly. ("Anyone know?")   I suppose I could have responded by saying "look in the factory service manual".  You do have a manual don't you? 

I made the comment about your other thread being removed (for duplication) because you felt it was OK but the rules here are one thread per subject. You may not realize it but it DID make you look like you were all over the map.  Just a little pointer for a guy with so few posts. In fact, I thought it was good advice and still do. 

If you want to re-read my initial response you may see it that way.  I will caution you however, if you don't have a thick enough skin you won't survive here.  (a lesson I had to learn early too       ) There is no other Harley tech site on the internet that you will get the kind of help you will get here.  You get access to even more info (and no commercials) when you donate and become a site supporter.  It's more of a caring community and is frequented by lots of top experts and people that HAVE done it and will share their knowledge openly.   

I take it (by your last comment) you are going to just figure it out yourself, then carry on my friend.  I wish you good fortune.  I know I won't make the mistake of getting involved again.

[Jaystn62]

Think I've been here before......

[Don D]

Back in the day I set up the 211s in a 95" @ 11:1 with the MCR heads. It was fun. today there are a lot of better ways to get there and have better manners, better mileage / less carbon build, lower octane needs, and lower cost.
The Tman 555 torquester is one of many good grinds that work well.

[Hossamania]

I agree on the 555's, my buddie loves them in his stock 103.

[838]

Is the TR555 available 99-06 style?

[Ohio HD]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know?

I don't know that pushing towards the gauge will give you any more of an accurate reading.

If you look at this video by Feuling. it shows a good method to follow. As well as mentions bearing flex. I assume is what you were looking for?

I mount an indicator directly above the crank. That way I have gravity placing the crank where it will ride as if out of the motor in V-blocks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MztCqNmPru8&ab_channel=FeulingParts

[Hossamania]

Is the TR555 available 99-06 style?

Contact T-Man, but I did not see one on their site. They have a 510 for those years.

[Don D]

You are measuring runout, maximum TIR. The radial movement allowed by the bearing is not relevant.  The crank is fine.

[Adam76]

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

If you want to re-read my initial response you may see it that way.  I will caution you however, if you don't have a thick enough skin you won't survive here. There is no other Harley tech site on the internet that you will get the kind of help you will get here.  You get access to even more info (and no commercials) when you donate and become a site supporter.  It's more of a caring community and is frequented by lots of top experts and people that HAVE done it and will share their knowledge openly.  

I take it (by your last comment) you are going to just figure it out yourself, then carry on my friend.  I wish you good fortune.  I know I won't make the mistake of getting involved again.

[Markpisani]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

[FXDBI]

Do the 103 heads have compression releases ?   Bob

[Markpisani]

Yes. Gotta figure a plan there. Heard you can connect to starter but I'm thinking I'll just plug them.

[rigidthumper]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

SS510s  with the late model heads and cast 10.25 pistons would have ~9.1 corrected CR, and crank about 190CCP. Decent mid range, should make mid 90s TQ, upper 80s to lower 90s HP.

[FXDBI]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

SS510s  with the late model heads and cast 10.25 pistons would have ~9.1 corrected CR, and crank about 190CCP. Decent mid range, should make mid 90s TQ, upper 80s to lower 90s HP.

Yes hook up the compression releases in the new heads and good to go.  Bob

[Adam76]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

  This is good advice, If it were me I would probably go this route. Tried and tested and plenty of results in the dyno section. JMO. 

[838]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

  This is good advice, If it were me I would probably go this route. Tried and tested and plenty of results in the dyno section. JMO. 

I'd do this with a 57n or woods tw5-6 conversion cam... tts-150 is available as conversion too. With the newer heads you can accommodate the extra lift vs. the .510, and hydraulic conversion is nice.

[Markpisani]

Couple questions.....

Would I just need a stock intake flange for the 103" head?

Can you just put manual compression release valves on the 103" head. Don't have them yet so no idea where the stock CR would be located.


Thanks.

[Ohio HD]

You will use the later model flanges, like what comes on the 103 head. Manual compression releases would have to be added. They won't work in the ACR location, top of the head.

[rigidthumper]

Couple questions.....

Would I just need a stock intake flange for the 103" head?

Can you just put manual compression release valves on the 103" head. Don't have them yet so no idea where the stock CR would be located.


Thanks.

2006 and newer flanges 26993-06 (sold each) will be needed for the newer heads
Plugs for the ACRs are 16648-08A (sold each)
Your heads can be machined for manual compression releases (MCR- 32067-02), & are available from numerous places.

[FXDBI]

Reached out to Phil. Says he doesn't sell the OEM Harley stuff anymore. Harley won't sell to him.

Make a list and go into the north side store, always had great service there,  no discounts but the service has always been great.   Bob

[Markpisani]

Ok. Will try there. Thanks.

One other question. Probably should have asked earlier. I obviously have the tank off and drained. It will stay that way to the end of this. Assuming February or so at least. I wasn't planning to do anything with it or the fuel system as far as the tank goes. Should I have to?  What about having it stored empty?

May get it painted so I'd really prefer not to fill it back up.

Thanks.

[Armin]

During a recent winter build I stored the empty gas tank with a fresh silica gel bag inside and the filling spout plugged using a clean shop rag. Make sure to attach a thin length of wire to the bag to safely pull it out again.

Armin.

[Markpisani]

Ok. Here's where I am and need some help. Remember I'm new to this.....

I have my new cam plate installed with SS 510G cams.

I have 95" jugs and 103" heads (new take offs, only reason I'm using these)

Have two choices.

1. STD flat top pistons with Cometic 0.03 head gasket
2. SE 10:25.1 domed pistons with 0.45 (stock) head gasket.

I like the idea of option #2 but am worried about valve
Clearance and compatibility. Not sure how to verify I am ok and so am thinking of being ultra conservative and using the flat tops.

As I said in the beginning I like a bit of power and ride in the higher RpM range but wasn't unhappy with the bike as it was stock. Started this only because I knew I have to come apart to check cam chain tensioners. Lol. 

[rigidthumper]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

[FXDBI]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

[Markpisani]

Thanks for the help so far. All is coming along ok. Just taking my time (as much as I can as I get impatient) and getting things done. I have new question/concern.......

Yesterday I installed my adjustable pushrods, did the first cylinder, waited a few hours for bleed down (took a break) and then when I checked that all was good I went to turn the engine over with the rear wheel and I hear a loud 'clack' noise. I was sh***ing my pants!  Lol. I turned it over a few more times and nothing. Quite and smooth. Did front cylinder and no probs.

Last night I realized watching a YouTube video that I did not use the fatter o-rings on the top of the pushrod covers. Ooops. This morning was my do over. The exact same thing happened. Same noise, same time and not repeatable.

I am thinking something just being forced into its 'home' on the first turn over?  I don't really know. Last thing I want to do is tear everything apart to look but I guess it's better than finding an issue on start up.

Just so you have some background I used new pushrods, new lifters. Nothing done to rocker arms, etc. 

Any thoughts?

[rigidthumper]

Did you get easy start cams?

[Markpisani]

No. SS510G but not easy start.

[Markpisani]

Here's some pics of the work so far. Not perfect but all first time stuff and at least  it's a bit different.

[Markpisani]

Anyone have any advice on the noise I heard?  I'm trying to decide if I should tear it apart again and check to see if I can determine the cause of the noise I heard but it's a lot of work and I'd rather not do it for nothing. I can't imagine I'm the first to encounter something like this but you never know I guess.

Thanks I'm advance. Happy to have this board to sound these issues off in. 😀

[Buglet]

   Probably one pushrod not sitting in the rocker seat when turning over the motor. When turning the motor over its snapping in the seat of the rocker. To be sure just recheck your pushrod adjustments.

[Markpisani]

This is what I figured and was hoping it was.  Pushrods (none of them) seemed overly loose though.  I can't imagine it would move that much but should be enough to be quite loose?

[speedzter]

I had an issue with piston to cylinder head clearance  using SE 10.25 95"  pistons and stock chamber 103 heads and a .030 gasket.
Each corner of the piston "pop up" had contacted the chamber and had to be relieved by carefully using a die grinder.
May not be your issue if you are using an .045 gasket

[Markpisani]

How did you know that you had a clearance issue?  Did you clay it? 

I have talked to a couple of guys that have run the same set up and had no issues with clearance......

[jsachs1]

I had an issue with piston to cylinder head clearance  using SE 10.25 95"  pistons and stock chamber 103 heads and a .030 gasket.
Each corner of the piston "pop up" had contacted the chamber and had to be relieved by carefully using a die grinder.
May not be your issue if you are using an .045 gasket

That was common with the 95" SE CAST 10.25 pistons  . Forged 10.5 pistons NO problem. The first run of Wiseco 95" had the same problem. They fixed it instantly.
John

[FXDBI]

The pistons had the valve pockets addressed and were good with 1.9/1.6 valves and a .030 gasket so I doubt there is a problem there.   Bob

[Don D]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

Don't be fooled with "low lift" cams, soe have very high TDC lifts on overlap, the important measurement. Stock 103 heads and a .030 HG with S&S 510 would not have the valves any higher than the head deck at TDC overlap. Listen to Sachs, those pistons had issues, the dome and the reliefs for those with milled heads and OS valves.

[FXDBI]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

Don't be fooled with "low lift" cams, soe have very high TDC lifts on overlap, the important measurement. Stock 103 heads and a .030 HG with S&S 510 would not have the valves any higher than the head deck at TDC overlap. Listen to Sachs, those pistons had issues, the dome and the reliefs for those with milled heads and OS valves.

Just to clear things up, he is running the jugs and pistons I had in a 95 with a set of HQ heads and a .030 gasket S&S585 cams. The pistons have the pockets addressed already for the bigger valves in the HQ heads.  Both the 585 and 510 have the same tdc lift so unless the pistons are backwards I dont see it being a problem.   Bob

[Markpisani]

I tore everything down to the pistons again just for some peace of mind. Very happy to report that pistons are installed correctly and everything looks good. Took pictures this time so if I doubt myself I have proof. Lol.

I'm chalking it up to a rod settling into the rocker arm or clipping a pushrod cover. Hoping to be able to crank it over in a week or so once I get it a bit more together. Will see what happens then. 🤞

[Markpisani]

Getting ready to get everything together to start the bike up.  Just have some electrical to connect and my gas tank and should be ready.  Any last tips?  I am pretty nervous to see what happens.

Am planning a few heat cycles and then will have to leave it until spring as obviously I cannot ride it here (in Alberta, Canada) right now.  Assuming of course if everything seems good.  Will be looking into a good tuning option.  Any ideas on a good place in Edmonton?  Any idea on what cost I am looking at?

Thanks.

[Hossamania]

Tuning device, approximately $500.
A tune, approximately $500.
Talk to the shop doing the tune, ask them which device they prefer.

Tips? What are your plans for the fuel for storage after running it?
I certainly understand your anxiety of first start, it's a little nerve wracking doing your first major build and hitting the starter for the first time. I was a wreck just changing cams and adjusting pushrods.
Have confidence in your skills, and hit that button. Once it starts and checks out, you'll be able to relax until Spring!

[Markpisani]

Thanks!

Was going to drain it and put it in the jerry can for the snow blower and mower...lol.  Figured last think I need to do is complicate things with some shitty old fuel.

Don't have much for abilities yet but followed most of the advice I received here and the manual.  One thing that has certainly caused me some anxiety is o-rings.  Next time I do something like this I am going to categorize all of the o-rings as I disassemble the bike...that way i know for sure the size of what goes back.  The Cometic kit I ordered just has em all in a bag.  I think most of them are pretty clear but there is one size that has a thicker o-ring and a thinner one.  Mixed that up on the top of my pushrods.  Hope I got it right everywhere else.  Especially on the oil pump.......

Been reading about wet sumping a bit but can't figure out how to tell right away if this is occuring.  Will a pressure gauge tell me?  Don't have one installed but thinking about it.