Winter build

[rigidthumper]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

[Ohio HD]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

 

[Hossamania]

In a drag race, HP ( if the rider knows how to use it) will win every time. On the street, doing roll-ons against your friends, TQ is king ( as long as your gearing is the same)

 

Depends on how long the race is...

[Markpisani]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

[kd]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

It's called crank runout.  Is your phone putting words in your mouth? 

Go to the Homemade Tool Section.  There is a crank runout checker there.  It will be obvious how it's used.  There are also a number of suppliers of "store bought" versions you can search on-line to find. I saw the other thread you started before it went to the Shed.  I agree that you need to better understand the process before you go any further.  You will get the help you need if you don't run all over the map.  I would use this thread to ask questions as you go to ensure you don't miss any important details.

[Markpisani]

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

[kd]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know? 

It's called crank runout.  Is your phone putting words in your mouth? 

Go to the Homemade Tool Section.  There is a crank runout checker there.  It will be obvious how it's used.  There are also a number of suppliers of "store bought" versions you can search on-line to find. I saw the other thread you started before it went to the Shed.  I agree that you need to better understand the process before you go any further.  You will get the help you need if you don't run all over the map.  I would use this thread to ask questions as you go to ensure you don't miss any important details.

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

OK Mark.  You can put the gun away.  For your information, the phone remark is due to something that happens to me almost every time I fail to check what I typed before pushing send.   

The second paragraph was actually me trying to help but you were blinded by adrenalin caused by you misinterpreting my opening line.    I gave you some info on where to look for a tool that does what you want to do that would also show you what / how it is checked. Remember that you were the one asking how to do it properly. ("Anyone know?")   I suppose I could have responded by saying "look in the factory service manual".  You do have a manual don't you? 

I made the comment about your other thread being removed (for duplication) because you felt it was OK but the rules here are one thread per subject. You may not realize it but it DID make you look like you were all over the map.  Just a little pointer for a guy with so few posts. In fact, I thought it was good advice and still do. 

If you want to re-read my initial response you may see it that way.  I will caution you however, if you don't have a thick enough skin you won't survive here.  (a lesson I had to learn early too       ) There is no other Harley tech site on the internet that you will get the kind of help you will get here.  You get access to even more info (and no commercials) when you donate and become a site supporter.  It's more of a caring community and is frequented by lots of top experts and people that HAVE done it and will share their knowledge openly.   

I take it (by your last comment) you are going to just figure it out yourself, then carry on my friend.  I wish you good fortune.  I know I won't make the mistake of getting involved again.

[Jaystn62]

Think I've been here before......

[Don D]

Back in the day I set up the 211s in a 95" @ 11:1 with the MCR heads. It was fun. today there are a lot of better ways to get there and have better manners, better mileage / less carbon build, lower octane needs, and lower cost.
The Tman 555 torquester is one of many good grinds that work well.

[Hossamania]

I agree on the 555's, my buddie loves them in his stock 103.

[838]

Is the TR555 available 99-06 style?

[Ohio HD]

Thanks for all the input. The more I hear the more options I get the more I can't decide what to do. Hahahah. At least I'm in no rush.

Question about torque run out. I bored a dial indicator with a stand and am checking at the cam side with everything removed. Entire top end and cam plate, etc. I did it a few time and am happy to say it was .002 so no issues I think. I was told that you have to check bearing play though by applying upward pressure on the shaft, towards the dial indicator. If I do this and hard I can get it to move .005. A lot of what I see on the net this is not done. Anyone know?

I don't know that pushing towards the gauge will give you any more of an accurate reading.

If you look at this video by Feuling. it shows a good method to follow. As well as mentions bearing flex. I assume is what you were looking for?

I mount an indicator directly above the crank. That way I have gravity placing the crank where it will ride as if out of the motor in V-blocks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MztCqNmPru8&ab_channel=FeulingParts

[Hossamania]

Is the TR555 available 99-06 style?

Contact T-Man, but I did not see one on their site. They have a 510 for those years.

[Don D]

You are measuring runout, maximum TIR. The radial movement allowed by the bearing is not relevant.  The crank is fine.

[Adam76]

You knew what I meant. I don't need a lecture. Not a child.

If you want to help me that's cool. If you think I'm some dumb kid trying to hit rod a bike then don't. I've done way harder things than this in my life so I'll figure it out.

If you want to re-read my initial response you may see it that way.  I will caution you however, if you don't have a thick enough skin you won't survive here. There is no other Harley tech site on the internet that you will get the kind of help you will get here.  You get access to even more info (and no commercials) when you donate and become a site supporter.  It's more of a caring community and is frequented by lots of top experts and people that HAVE done it and will share their knowledge openly.  

I take it (by your last comment) you are going to just figure it out yourself, then carry on my friend.  I wish you good fortune.  I know I won't make the mistake of getting involved again.

[Markpisani]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

[FXDBI]

Do the 103 heads have compression releases ?   Bob

[Markpisani]

Yes. Gotta figure a plan there. Heard you can connect to starter but I'm thinking I'll just plug them.

[rigidthumper]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

SS510s  with the late model heads and cast 10.25 pistons would have ~9.1 corrected CR, and crank about 190CCP. Decent mid range, should make mid 90s TQ, upper 80s to lower 90s HP.

[FXDBI]

Any thoughts SS 510g? Have a line on a gear
Drive conversion with these cams.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

SS510s  with the late model heads and cast 10.25 pistons would have ~9.1 corrected CR, and crank about 190CCP. Decent mid range, should make mid 90s TQ, upper 80s to lower 90s HP.

Yes hook up the compression releases in the new heads and good to go.  Bob

[Adam76]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

  This is good advice, If it were me I would probably go this route. Tried and tested and plenty of results in the dyno section. JMO. 

[838]

Buy the street glide heads, use the 10.25/1 pistons with stock head gasket and find some S&S 570ES cams. Will put you right at 195 ccp.  http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm   Bob

  This is good advice, If it were me I would probably go this route. Tried and tested and plenty of results in the dyno section. JMO. 

I'd do this with a 57n or woods tw5-6 conversion cam... tts-150 is available as conversion too. With the newer heads you can accommodate the extra lift vs. the .510, and hydraulic conversion is nice.

[Markpisani]

Couple questions.....

Would I just need a stock intake flange for the 103" head?

Can you just put manual compression release valves on the 103" head. Don't have them yet so no idea where the stock CR would be located.


Thanks.

[Ohio HD]

You will use the later model flanges, like what comes on the 103 head. Manual compression releases would have to be added. They won't work in the ACR location, top of the head.

[rigidthumper]

Couple questions.....

Would I just need a stock intake flange for the 103" head?

Can you just put manual compression release valves on the 103" head. Don't have them yet so no idea where the stock CR would be located.


Thanks.

2006 and newer flanges 26993-06 (sold each) will be needed for the newer heads
Plugs for the ACRs are 16648-08A (sold each)
Your heads can be machined for manual compression releases (MCR- 32067-02), & are available from numerous places.