Winter build

[FXDBI]

Reached out to Phil. Says he doesn't sell the OEM Harley stuff anymore. Harley won't sell to him.

Make a list and go into the north side store, always had great service there,  no discounts but the service has always been great.   Bob

[Markpisani]

Ok. Will try there. Thanks.

One other question. Probably should have asked earlier. I obviously have the tank off and drained. It will stay that way to the end of this. Assuming February or so at least. I wasn't planning to do anything with it or the fuel system as far as the tank goes. Should I have to?  What about having it stored empty?

May get it painted so I'd really prefer not to fill it back up.

Thanks.

[Armin]

During a recent winter build I stored the empty gas tank with a fresh silica gel bag inside and the filling spout plugged using a clean shop rag. Make sure to attach a thin length of wire to the bag to safely pull it out again.

Armin.

[Markpisani]

Ok. Here's where I am and need some help. Remember I'm new to this.....

I have my new cam plate installed with SS 510G cams.

I have 95" jugs and 103" heads (new take offs, only reason I'm using these)

Have two choices.

1. STD flat top pistons with Cometic 0.03 head gasket
2. SE 10:25.1 domed pistons with 0.45 (stock) head gasket.

I like the idea of option #2 but am worried about valve
Clearance and compatibility. Not sure how to verify I am ok and so am thinking of being ultra conservative and using the flat tops.

As I said in the beginning I like a bit of power and ride in the higher RpM range but wasn't unhappy with the bike as it was stock. Started this only because I knew I have to come apart to check cam chain tensioners. Lol. 

[rigidthumper]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

[FXDBI]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

[Markpisani]

Thanks for the help so far. All is coming along ok. Just taking my time (as much as I can as I get impatient) and getting things done. I have new question/concern.......

Yesterday I installed my adjustable pushrods, did the first cylinder, waited a few hours for bleed down (took a break) and then when I checked that all was good I went to turn the engine over with the rear wheel and I hear a loud 'clack' noise. I was sh***ing my pants!  Lol. I turned it over a few more times and nothing. Quite and smooth. Did front cylinder and no probs.

Last night I realized watching a YouTube video that I did not use the fatter o-rings on the top of the pushrod covers. Ooops. This morning was my do over. The exact same thing happened. Same noise, same time and not repeatable.

I am thinking something just being forced into its 'home' on the first turn over?  I don't really know. Last thing I want to do is tear everything apart to look but I guess it's better than finding an issue on start up.

Just so you have some background I used new pushrods, new lifters. Nothing done to rocker arms, etc. 

Any thoughts?

[rigidthumper]

Did you get easy start cams?

[Markpisani]

No. SS510G but not easy start.

[Markpisani]

Here's some pics of the work so far. Not perfect but all first time stuff and at least  it's a bit different.

[Markpisani]

Anyone have any advice on the noise I heard?  I'm trying to decide if I should tear it apart again and check to see if I can determine the cause of the noise I heard but it's a lot of work and I'd rather not do it for nothing. I can't imagine I'm the first to encounter something like this but you never know I guess.

Thanks I'm advance. Happy to have this board to sound these issues off in. 😀

[Buglet]

   Probably one pushrod not sitting in the rocker seat when turning over the motor. When turning the motor over its snapping in the seat of the rocker. To be sure just recheck your pushrod adjustments.

[Markpisani]

This is what I figured and was hoping it was.  Pushrods (none of them) seemed overly loose though.  I can't imagine it would move that much but should be enough to be quite loose?

[speedzter]

I had an issue with piston to cylinder head clearance  using SE 10.25 95"  pistons and stock chamber 103 heads and a .030 gasket.
Each corner of the piston "pop up" had contacted the chamber and had to be relieved by carefully using a die grinder.
May not be your issue if you are using an .045 gasket

[Markpisani]

How did you know that you had a clearance issue?  Did you clay it? 

I have talked to a couple of guys that have run the same set up and had no issues with clearance......

[jsachs1]

I had an issue with piston to cylinder head clearance  using SE 10.25 95"  pistons and stock chamber 103 heads and a .030 gasket.
Each corner of the piston "pop up" had contacted the chamber and had to be relieved by carefully using a die grinder.
May not be your issue if you are using an .045 gasket

That was common with the 95" SE CAST 10.25 pistons  . Forged 10.5 pistons NO problem. The first run of Wiseco 95" had the same problem. They fixed it instantly.
John

[FXDBI]

The pistons had the valve pockets addressed and were good with 1.9/1.6 valves and a .030 gasket so I doubt there is a problem there.   Bob

[Don D]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

Don't be fooled with "low lift" cams, soe have very high TDC lifts on overlap, the important measurement. Stock 103 heads and a .030 HG with S&S 510 would not have the valves any higher than the head deck at TDC overlap. Listen to Sachs, those pistons had issues, the dome and the reliefs for those with milled heads and OS valves.

[FXDBI]

Use the cometic gaskets with the SE cast pistons.
I haven't seen any issues with clearance with those low lift cams.

you wont have any problems with valve clearance ect  ran that set up with 585 lift and no problem.
Bob

Don't be fooled with "low lift" cams, soe have very high TDC lifts on overlap, the important measurement. Stock 103 heads and a .030 HG with S&S 510 would not have the valves any higher than the head deck at TDC overlap. Listen to Sachs, those pistons had issues, the dome and the reliefs for those with milled heads and OS valves.

Just to clear things up, he is running the jugs and pistons I had in a 95 with a set of HQ heads and a .030 gasket S&S585 cams. The pistons have the pockets addressed already for the bigger valves in the HQ heads.  Both the 585 and 510 have the same tdc lift so unless the pistons are backwards I dont see it being a problem.   Bob

[Markpisani]

I tore everything down to the pistons again just for some peace of mind. Very happy to report that pistons are installed correctly and everything looks good. Took pictures this time so if I doubt myself I have proof. Lol.

I'm chalking it up to a rod settling into the rocker arm or clipping a pushrod cover. Hoping to be able to crank it over in a week or so once I get it a bit more together. Will see what happens then. 🤞

[Markpisani]

Getting ready to get everything together to start the bike up.  Just have some electrical to connect and my gas tank and should be ready.  Any last tips?  I am pretty nervous to see what happens.

Am planning a few heat cycles and then will have to leave it until spring as obviously I cannot ride it here (in Alberta, Canada) right now.  Assuming of course if everything seems good.  Will be looking into a good tuning option.  Any ideas on a good place in Edmonton?  Any idea on what cost I am looking at?

Thanks.

[Hossamania]

Tuning device, approximately $500.
A tune, approximately $500.
Talk to the shop doing the tune, ask them which device they prefer.

Tips? What are your plans for the fuel for storage after running it?
I certainly understand your anxiety of first start, it's a little nerve wracking doing your first major build and hitting the starter for the first time. I was a wreck just changing cams and adjusting pushrods.
Have confidence in your skills, and hit that button. Once it starts and checks out, you'll be able to relax until Spring!

[Markpisani]

Thanks!

Was going to drain it and put it in the jerry can for the snow blower and mower...lol.  Figured last think I need to do is complicate things with some shitty old fuel.

Don't have much for abilities yet but followed most of the advice I received here and the manual.  One thing that has certainly caused me some anxiety is o-rings.  Next time I do something like this I am going to categorize all of the o-rings as I disassemble the bike...that way i know for sure the size of what goes back.  The Cometic kit I ordered just has em all in a bag.  I think most of them are pretty clear but there is one size that has a thicker o-ring and a thinner one.  Mixed that up on the top of my pushrods.  Hope I got it right everywhere else.  Especially on the oil pump.......

Been reading about wet sumping a bit but can't figure out how to tell right away if this is occuring.  Will a pressure gauge tell me?  Don't have one installed but thinking about it.