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Aluminum Shifter Lever

Started by smoserx1, March 05, 2021, 04:05:47 AM

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smoserx1

Yesterday I noticed my toe shifter moving around and I was not able to  tighten it up.  The splines on both the lever and the shaft that goes  through the primary were damaged.  I guess that not too bad for 22 years and over 220K miles.  Fortunately the dealer had new stuff in stock.  However I did notice the new lever was much lighter and would not attract a magnet so I assume it is aluminum, and I also noticed the pinch bolt goes completely through and is captured by a nylock nut on the other side rather than just being threaded into the lever, and to me this seems good.  Are these new levers reliable?  Do the splines hold up?  Thanks!

Tacocaster

Same type of toe shifter (heel removed) here in my '07 and it's holding-up extremely well with over 1,675,093 shifts!

I'd say they have a winner - but don't tell HD!
We're all A-holes. It's to what degree that makes us different.

calif phil

I prefer the steel levers over the aluminum. 

guido4198

Once you put that new lever on your bike, make it a habit to check that nut for tightness periodically. If it works loose the aluminum will "waller out" and be ruined. (That's Hillbilly engineer jargon..hope I didn't lose you by getting so technical)

smoserx1

QuoteIf it works loose the aluminum will "waller out" and be ruined.
Thanks, that is exactly what happened to the steel toe lever except it damaged the splines in both the lever and the shaft.  I noticed on mine that the old heel shifter was different than the toe.  It has a 3-4 inch long "slit" emanating lengthwise  from the  attachment point and this seems like it would allow the attachment area to "deflect" more and perhaps clamp the splines better.   Anyway both levers have been supersededed and part number 33895-82E (the aluminum one) is used for both heel and toe now.  I'm keeping the old steel heel shifter for now as it seemes fine.   Luckily I have never had  an issue where this contraption attaches to the shifter shaft itself (at the tranny).  I use a hex bolt there and torque the crap out of it.

thumper 823

It is a crap of a design -
Red Loctite and constant viilligent  helps.
Also, I have drilled and installed roll pins in them.
That is a permeate cure.
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

fbn ent

I used green Stud and Bearing on mine.....we'll see.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

thumper 823

D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH