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Piston Oilers

Started by jamminhd2000, November 17, 2020, 11:13:55 AM

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jamminhd2000

I searched but could not find any definitive answers. Was there ever a change made by Harley to address the loose piston oiler problem? If so what was the change and when did it come into effect? To the guys that are building these motors are you still removing the piston oilers and deburring the mounting holes and using a cometic gasket? Thanks...Jimmy

jamminhd2000

I just did a spot check on a couple of models microfiche and it appears that harley changed the piston oiler gasket in 2018 to part # 25700433 and the number for piston oiler gasket in 2017 was part # 11000134.... :idunno: jimmy

Hillside Motorcycle

Originally, from what we saw, the screw never established the clamping force to create a seal.....hole in the cases was not deep enough.
Otto Knowbetter sez, "Even a fish wouldn't get caught if he kept his mouth shut"

jamminhd2000

So some more info and I hope it helps others. The bike I am working on 2020 Road Glide Special 130" build.

Removed piston oilers. Gasket appeared to be the same as 2017 MY. Still had the clear film on the gasket and as far as I could tell gasket has not changed. The self tapping screws that are used or still protruding the holes. Although if you look at the oem gasket vs the cometic gasket it has a star pattern around the screw holes. I could clearly see that the star pattern was around the outside of the area that was protruding so may not be affecting clamping force.

I deburred the holes and ran screws in just a bit past bottoming to ensure clamping with proper torque spec for piston jet screws. Installed cometic gasket and torqued.

As it is I think I will continue to check these while doing these builds. Overkill? Not sure but I feel better about them not leaking. Feel free to comment on what you do if anything or nothing when it comes to piston oilers.

Also checked oilers for debris.

FSG

Overkill ........  nah 

the holes should have been deeper than the length of the screw for starters BUT

the real culprit is the way the self-tapping screw mushrooms out the displaced material WHICH

holds the screw head and gasket proud of the crank surface providing a leak path

......... so ensure the hole depth is sufficient AND deburr / countersink after running screws in on a test run prior to gasket install

kd

Quote from: FSG on November 19, 2020, 12:26:35 PM
Overkill ........  nah 

the holes should have been deeper than the length of the screw for starters BUT

the real culprit is the way the self-tapping screw mushrooms out the displaced material WHICH

holds the screw head and gasket proud of the crank surface providing a leak path


......... so ensure the hole depth is sufficient AND deburr / countersink after running screws in on a test run prior to gasket install

:up:  The burr can be easily seen in jamminhd2000's 2nd pic.
KD

FloridaJim5

Can the piston jet be removed, deburred and the gasket replaced with just the cylinders removed.....or do you have to split the cases?  It looks accessible to me with the cylinder removed. 

les

Quote from: FloridaJim5 on November 20, 2020, 05:43:33 PM
Can the piston jet be removed, deburred and the gasket replaced with just the cylinders removed.....or do you have to split the cases?  It looks accessible to me with the cylinder removed.

I've replaced piston jets without splitting the cases.  But there is a risk of stuff dropping down in the case.  If you can prevent that, then the answer is yes.

HogMike

Quote from: FloridaJim5 on November 20, 2020, 05:43:33 PM
Can the piston jet be removed, deburred and the gasket replaced with just the cylinders removed.....or do you have to split the cases?  It looks accessible to me with the cylinder removed.

Yes, but it's easier with the piston removed.
:agree:
HOGMIKE
SoCal