Help with hydrolic clutch, please

[les]

The bike is a 2020 FLHT.  I'm doing an engine swap, and this is my first time working with a hydrolic clutch.  The service manual says that before I even start removing the clutch I need to remove the secondary clutch actuator and pushrod.  I don't understand why I need to mess with the right side of the tranny to remove the clutch.  Is removing the secondary clutch actuator required?

[rigidthumper]

No. I push the pushrod in to relieve any pressure/send fluid back to the reservoir, then pull the clutch lever to the bar, securing it to the handle with a piece of velcro. That way nothing moves/no fluid transfers during the swap process. After everything is reassembled, remove velcro, and operate the hand lever to restore normal function.

[les]

Thanks for the quick response.  The SM also says to stick the eyelet of a zip tie in between the clutch handle and its lever housing.  Is that what you're doing by pulling the clutch handle all the way to the bar?  They mention doing that to "close master cylinder fluid port".

[rigidthumper]

Same effect- I use Velcro, because it can't easily be dislodged.

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

Don't drink the 

It is an easier process to use the Secondary Actuator bolts to relieve the pressure. But, That is written for the Technician and not the real world environment.

As stated, merely depressing the rod while installing the Retainer Snap Ring saves about an hour of frustration and work time.

Why go through an eight step process to identify an open in a Circuit when it can be tested in one or two. The same for the Primary and Secondary Ignition, a $50 Single Channel Oscilloscope can check both the primary and secondary in a matter of minutes and identify the actual part rather than replacing them all?

A lot of people say they develop shortcuts in procedures. Rather, I think they're just smarter than the Engineers who write the manuals.

Someone once told me: "....these are written so that a employee with little experience can diagnose and repair....."

[Admiral Akbar]

Thanks for the quick response.  The SM also says to stick the eyelet of a zip tie in between the clutch handle and its lever housing.  Is that what you're doing by pulling the clutch handle all the way to the bar?  They mention doing that to "close master cylinder fluid port".

Why do you need you close the master cylinder fluid port?    Because it holds the slave in position? 

[rigidthumper]

Prevent fluid creep/slave travel while there is no pressure on the system. 

[Admiral Akbar]

So it's to keep the slave cylinder from pushing the piston all the way out if it's disconnected from the transmission?