03 Ultra starter re-build

[chas]

I just recently re- built my starter in my 03 Ultra. When I went to start it i got the click of dread.
Battery had been on a tender so it was charged. I could feel the plunger in the solenoid trying to hit the end cap. Any thoughts on why the clicking? Many thanks in advance.- Chas

[Hossamania]

How old is the battery?
Double check your grounds and connections.
Test the battery voltage.
Try jumping it. If it starts, the battery may well be toast.
If it doesn't start, the battery may well be toast.

[chas]

Battery is new maybe 7 months

[smoserx1]

I could feel the plunger in the solenoid trying to hit the end cap.

That doesn't make sense.  The plunger should be moving AWAY from the end cap and toward the primary side (IOW moving toward the left of the bike).  Crank it with the end cap off and see how it moves..  The next thing I would do is disconnect the battery and see if you can physically push the plunger in, that will tell you if it is binding.  Push hard as you have to overcome a strong return spring.  If you do find binding, remove the primary cover and check the torque on that long bolt that  connects the jackshaft assembly to the starter.  I have heard to much torque can cause binding.  As far as the battery itself, check the voltage while trying to start the bike  or see how much the headlight dims.  Good luck.

[smoserx1]

Let me add something else to this as I have had this issue numerous times.  If you installed a new jackshaft seal in the primary that might be causing binding.  In that case if you push the solenoid plunger in manually a couple of times that should solve the issue (probably gets a tiny bit of oil on the lips of the new seal).  But if you start to have a chronic problem like I had check the voltage of the green wire to the solenoid when you attempt to start the bike.  If it is too low it can keep the solenoid from developing the magnetic field it needs to do its job.  Remember the solenoid gets its power from the accessory side of the ignition switch, and via the relay.  I permanently solved my issue by severing the accessory circuit wire coming into the relay and replacing it with a new circuit (with an inline fuse) directly from the battery + terminal.  That was years and thousands of miles  ago...never a problem sense.  I also did similar to this on a car once.  Connections on vehicles age causing excessive voltage drops and unreliable operation.  Good luck!

[fleetmechanic]

You might want to check the amount of burning and pitting on the large copper washer in the solenoid switch as well as the two copper contact plates.

[chas]

Thanks All for your thoughts! When I get back in the garage this week or next I will try what you have all mentioned. I will let you know what i find- Thanks Chas

[tbird]

Mine ended up being the starter relay, over 100,000 on bike , went through everything else first.

[fidel]

new doesnt make it good     i always start at first point and go step by step new or not but thats me

[Fugawee]

Well, this is the 2nd time trying to respond...Don't ask Me where the 1st one went.   Beats Me...Anyway...
I have a 94'FLHTC, and an 03' FLHTCUI; that I have had a couple of Starting Issues with over the Years.

What was the Problem that caused You to rebuild the Starter?         Same Problem as now?

If You haven't already, Try giving This a Shot...

1=Find a piece of Heavy Gauge, Single Conductor Wire, about 8 to 12 inches long; 6,8,10,or 12 Gauge.  Preferably Copper.
    Strip approx. 3/4" of Insulation/Sheath off of each end, if any.  Bend the Wire like a "Horseshoe".


2=Remove the Small Wire from the Connector on the Starter.  Get it out of Your way, and clear of the Pipes.  That is the Wire coming from
    Your "Start" button, So to Speak.
    Lift up the Rubber Boot on the Large Black Cable to gain access to the Post.  Leave the Cable alone.  That is the "Hot" coming from
    the Battery.
 

3=Make Sure that the Bike is in Neutral.  Double Check that the Bike is in Neutral.

4=Turn On the Main Power at the Key Ignition Switch.  Turn On the "Run" Switch at the Handlebar Control.

5=Take one End of the "Horseshoe" Wire, and place/hold it on the "Hot" on the Starter.  Touch/Tap the other end of the "Horseshoe" to
     the Connector that You removed the Small Wire from.
     If Your Bike Turns Over like it normally would; or Starts...You have proven that the Battery and the Starter should be OK.

     This should prove that Your problem is "Back" towards the Main Source of Starter Power.
     That could be the "Start" button or Wiring, or a Bad Relay.  A wire could be pinched at or around the Handlebar Start Button Housing,
     or elsewhere.
   
    If You use a Volt/Ohm Meter...place One Lead on a Known Ground, and the Other Lead to the Wire that You removed from the Starter.
    With the Power On, and the Run Button On...Press the "Start" Button.  If You see any Reading on the Meter, whether Analog or Digital;
    when Hitting the Start Button; that should prove that You are OK from the Start Button to that End of the Wire.
    If You see nothing...the Problem is between the Small Wire, and the Start Button, which again can be a Wiring Problem, the Button, or
    a Relay.  A Wire or Switch can be "Open", or Broken somewhere.
    If You saw some form of Resistance on that Wire, BEFORE You Hit the Start Button, that may prove that there is a problem from that
    Wire as well.  It could be Grounded, Short Circuit, etc.

    If Your Bike did not Turn Over, or Start using the "Horseshoe", You could have a problem with, or from the Battery; and/or the Starter
    itself, or the Internal Components of the Starter.  Possibly, inside the Primary Cover as well.
    Check the Large Battery Cables.  Cables have been known to corrode on the inside, under the sheath.  Visually looking at them You
    may think that they are OK.  A "Wiggle" test, or removing the Cables and looking at them with a Volt/Ohm Meter for "Resistance"
    may tell a different story.

    You can try the Test from the Wire on the Starter back to the Button first.  Whatever You find easier for Yourself.  Your the Boss.
    You can also remove the Spark Plugs, if You do not want to have a chance of the Bike actually starting.  You should be able to tell
    if it will start or not.
    Do though, make 100% certain that the Bike is in Neutral.  Ask Me why I stress this point.
    And don't forget to Re-install the Small Wire back on the Connector at the Starter, if and when You find Your problem.
    Ask Me how I know about that also.

    I have kept one of those "Horseshoes" in all of My Bikes Saddlebags for years.  It has saved many a Stranded Biker.  Myself Included.
    I keep one in My "Electrical" Toolbox as well.  There good to have, and an in-expensive Troubleshooting Tool.
    This type of Test works on just about all HD's with Electric Starts.  Softails can prove to be a Pain in the Ass, because of the Oil Tank
    Location.  But, it can be done.
    I hope that this Helps You, and that I didn't offer something that You may already know.  Good Luck!

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

Try this... for most 99 and later TC w/ Jack Shafts.

Remove the End Cap on the Solenoid. Use a screw driver handle to drive the piston in [Neutral - Ignition OFF]

If it rotates the Ring Gear, Loosen the starter but leave the bolts where is will hold it in, tap the starter and it will rotate to the Ring Gear. Alternately tighten each bolt a few turns while bumping it until torque is reached. Bet it works.