1999 TC 88, low low miles... current cost of cam plate/tensioner fixes?

Started by 1982fxr, December 21, 2020, 09:17:51 PM

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1982fxr

Hey guys been out of the bike game a few years.  Might go look at a 1999 FXDWG with less than 5k on the clock.

I never owned a TC.  Poking around it sounds like the Screaming Eagle fixes are actually on the cheaper side compared to the aftermarket guys?

I guess I'm talking about the cam plate/HV oil pump and hydraulic tensioner conversion...

1982fxr

It should be safe to ride as is for a couple thousand miles right?

I just want to factor in costs before making an offer.  If I do.

MikeL

Those early TC's had problems with the outer rear cam bearing. There was a recall. Find out if this bike was in the "bad" bearing area and if it was, was it fixed under warranty. Also the inner cam bearings were crap and need to be replaced also. The spring tensioners are crap and it it were me I would convert to the hydraulic tensioner hybrid cam backing plate or go gear drive.. Other than the cam problems the bottom end is solid and is a decent platform for performance modifications

                                                                                                                                                                  MIKE

Hossamania

I agree on the gear drive, I love mine, haven't been into the cam chest in 15 years, 90,000 miles. Your tensioners, while not worn, are old and probably brittle, replacement sooner rather than later would be prudent, in my mind anyway.
I don't have any help on prices of hydraulic conversion, a good choice as well.
And as long as you're in there, a cam swap ii pretty easy...
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

MikeL

Quote from: 1982fxr on December 21, 2020, 09:19:26 PM
It should be safe to ride as is for a couple thousand miles right?

I just want to factor in costs before making an offer.  If I do.
Knowing a lot of twin cam owners over the years the motorcycles that were ridden and not parked the spring shoes seem to last longer than the parked garage queens. I believe sitting a long time the oil dries off the chain. The shoes do not see lube oil immediately upon start up.
With that being said i would definitely bring up the tensioners needing to be replaced and the cost to do the repair/upgrade depending what route you want to take.
If it were me I would trailer it home and fix it by installing gear drive as long as the crank outrun is less than .004.
Talk to California Phil he is a part vender on HTT he can help you out on price of parts

                                                                                                                                                                    MIKE

Buglet

   Just had one come in the crank run out was .0003 that is the best I ever seen. The bearing are getting replaced and putting in Cyco shoes in. Cost for parts are about $ 125.   

kd

If the previous owner doesn't know if the warranty work was done the MOCO can tell you.  I have imported a couple of bikes into Canada and we are required to ensure any recalls for that model are up to date.  I got the info I needed from Harley.
KD

Buglet

  I think in the U.S. they did a good will not a recall. If it went bad before 50K or a certain amount years they would repair it but not a recall. The stock work just as good as updating it unless you are planning to build the motor up. 

PoorUB

IMO, what ever repairs you do would be dictated by how many miles you plan on riding. Not many? Put the stock cam chain tensioners back in and don't worry about it for 40,000 miles.

Planning on riding it a lot? The newer style cam plate with the hydraulic tensioners, roller chain and conversion cams.

Gears are ok too, but the runout has to be in spec and the gears can be noisey.

The SE plate still uses the old style chain, Not a big fan of it.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

SP33DY

If you don't want to change cams, S&S has a camplate & oil pump upgrade that uses hydraulic tensioners and early style cams. No conversion cam necessary.

S&S 310-0731
MSRP $723.95

smoserx1

I'm one of those guys with a 1999 TC and still ride it.  Here is some info that may help you out.  All 1999 twin cams had the problematic rear ball bearing.  The fix was a 2 piece roller bearing, but it is more complicated than just that.  The early 1999 twin cams has rear cams that attached to the sprocket using a woodruff key.  Sometime in 99 they changed this design so that the rear cam attaches to the sprocket with splines.  If you have the early keyed cams they likely won't work any upgrade, including the replacement roller bearing, so you may very well have to buy a new set of cams regardless (and that includes the screaming eagle kit you mentioned or the S&S kit mentioned in this thread).  And no there was never an actual recall on the bearing.  If it failed within 5 years or 50000 miles it got fixed (mine failed at 34000 miles).  With only 5000 miles on it I doubt this one has been replaced.

The 99 TC used a cam position sensor that requires the rear cam sprocket incorporate a "trigger ring."  This is a 180° protruding ridge made into the sprocket.  Any upgrade you choose will require a trigger ring sprocket or gear unless you replace the ignition module with a later one that ignores the cam position sensor.  Make sure that you can get a proper sprocket or gear before you proceed.  The ones with trigger rings are probably going to be scarce, since the newer twin cams don't use them.

Finally if it an early 99 the right side engine case will lack a boss for an oil passage (used in the later softail engines) and a replacement cam plate will have an oil feed hole that will need to be blocked or a loss or oil pressure will occur.  Make sure anyone working on this bike is aware of these issues.  Good luck!


1982fxr

Smoserx1, you may have just talked me out of making an offer on this bike.

Maybe I should listen to my own advice; never buy a first year Harley anything.

1982fxr

My last bike was a 1982 fxr shovelhead.  Both a first for me.  It became a Neverending project and I got so sick of trying to learn what bastard year parts would and wouldn't fit, not being able to find factory parts, etc.

It sucked and I don't ever want to go through that again. 

motorhogman

Quote from: 1982fxr on December 22, 2020, 03:34:53 PM
Smoserx1, you may have just talked me out of making an offer on this bike.

Maybe I should listen to my own advice; never buy a first year Harley anything.

LOL  I agree.. I bought an 01 FLHT in Sept of 2000.. One of the best machines I have ever owned.  I waited,  as much as I was drooling over the new TC platform. 115,000 and 20 years later and still enjoying it.
where's the points and condenser ?<br />Tom / aka motor

MikeL

If you can get the bike for $3500-$4000 it would be worth it. A good friend has the same year he bought it new and in 19 years on put 6k miles on it. He knew about all the faults cause I told him. He went gear drive 510 S&S cams along with fueling spring, torrington inner bearings, spark plugs, 3 hole oil service, upgraded head breathers and rocker cover gasket. Re jet the carb with the sportster needle and a used adjustable ignition module It came in less than $1800. If you do the work yourself it will be cheaper.

                                                                                                                                                                MIKE

1982fxr

Well this sucks.  I really want an evo FXDWG but not having much luck.  Twin cams are just...I don't want to drop a bunch of cash and have a really expensive problem and before I know most of my savings is gone.

My buddy and his wife bought a series of new bikes around the 2015 era.  Every bike was back at the dealer constantly.  They said everyone in their riding club was having the same experiences.

It makes me afraid to buy a newer bike since there won't be a warranty.

FSG

QuoteIf you can get the bike for $3500-$4000 it would be worth it.

:agree:

what's it going to cost you to buy ?

1982fxr

They recently lowered it from $7,000 down to $5,000.  That's when I saw it.

Add has phrase deal of a lifetime so I wouldn't expect the most flexible seller.  I think it's someone older who doesn't ride anymore, but not sure about that.

wolf_59

You can replace the cam chain tensioners and cam bearings for under $200 if you can do wrenching yourself and have access to the tools. Then ride it for awhile to decide if you want to keep it before throwing more money into gear drive and cams or hydraulic tensioners set up.

Hossamania

I agree, even if you pay someone to change them, it's about a 4 to 6 hour job, under $1000.
Beside just the money for the tensioners, what about the rest of the bike? Tires, fuel system, battery, tires? If it has been sitting a long time, inspect the inside of the fuel tank. If stored with ethanol fuel, the carb is probably molded green and black inside, even if stabilizer was used. $5k would be the top of the price range for me, I'd shoot for lower. It's still a 22 year old bike with 22 year old wiring, etc., mileage aside. But it's worth a look if in good shape.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

smoserx1

QuoteSmoserx1, you may have just talked me out of making an offer on this bike.

Maybe I should listen to my own advice; never buy a first year Harley anything.

I wasn't trying to talk you out of it but rather pointing out some differences the 99s had (especially the early ones) that some people just don't know about.  I still ride my early 99 FLHT that I bought new in January 99 and it has almost 220000 miles on it.  It is an excellent machine.  I learned very quickly how to work on it as my servicing dealer at the time was IMO almost beyond incompetent.  that dealership went out of business during the recession of the 2008 era.  Here are a few other differences:

That bike has a carburetor.  The 99 twin cam carburetors were jetted leaner than the subsequent years.  Mine came with a 42 slow and a 185 main jet and a NOKM needle.  It was way to lean to run good in cold weather.  The next year they upped the jets to a 45/190 combo.  Also the 99s use brakes from the EVO (and maybe earlier) era including the spade shaped front pads and the wheels will probably have packable wheel bearings which are normally serviced at tire  changes.  Finally the 99s used different lifters which tended to bleed down overnight and clatter on startup the next day.  Anyway you can look at the data label on the neck of the frame and tell when it was made.  Early ones will have the keyed cams and lack the oil boss.  All 99s will have the rear cam bearing issue (and some early 2000s as well) and will have cam position sensors.  I have serviced my cams twice.  The first time I replaced the tensionsers and installed SE 203 cams (hydraulic tensioners were not an option then).  The second time I went with Andrews 21N conversion cams and the complete 2007 camplate/oil pump setup and that camplate does not use bearings.  I think I paid about $650 for the parts the second time and I already had a set of adjustable pushrods (another $150 or so).  This was in 2010, so figure in some inflation.  Andrews website has comversion cam instructions which list the parts you would need, and also discuss the oil boss and trigger ring issues.

Buglet

   Unless you are planning on keeping that bike for a long time and that's the bike you really want Then it's worth getting it for the $5000. Other then that I would not pay anything over $3000 for it. Right now there is plenty of newer bikes you can get in that price range. Had a 09 EG Ultra clean low miles sold for $5600. They are out there.

calif phil

A 1999 FXDWG is a nice bike and one with 5000 miles is worth $5000 if it's in excellent condition, but I would start at $4000.   Buy it, ride it and enjoy it. 


kd

KD

1982fxr

Quote from: Buglet on December 23, 2020, 05:32:10 AM
   Unless you are planning on keeping that bike for a long time and that's the bike you really want Then it's worth getting it for the $5000. Other then that I would not pay anything over $3000 for it. Right now there is plenty of newer bikes you can get in that price range. Had a 09 EG Ultra clean low miles sold for $5600. They are out there.

Here's the thing, like I mentioned above my buddy and his wife Had a series of new bikes starting in around 2015 and every one was back at the dealer constantly.  Every time it was something that would have been very expensive and everyone in their riding group was having similar experiences.

It makes me afraid to own a TC without a warranty, which is all of them.  I was thinking this bike was last year evo when I originally inquired.

I've got $5k plus to drop on a bike but I don't want it to drain my life savings to keep it on the road.  Have I become overly paranoid about twin cams?