1999 TC 88, low low miles... current cost of cam plate/tensioner fixes?

Started by 1982fxr, December 21, 2020, 09:17:51 PM

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Hossamania

Looking at it doesn't cost anything. Who knows, you might like it!
No need to be paranoid about twin cams, they have a few issues, but nothing to be afraid of if you know what you're looking for. Buying any used bike comes with risks, even Evos......
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Hossamania

Quote from: 1982fxr on January 15, 2021, 11:38:08 AM
Quote from: Buglet on December 23, 2020, 05:32:10 AM
   Unless you are planning on keeping that bike for a long time and that's the bike you really want Then it's worth getting it for the $5000. Other then that I would not pay anything over $3000 for it. Right now there is plenty of newer bikes you can get in that price range. Had a 09 EG Ultra clean low miles sold for $5600. They are out there.

Here's the thing, like I mentioned above my buddy and his wife Had a series of new bikes starting in around 2015 and every one was back at the dealer constantly.  Every time it was something that would have been very expensive and everyone in their riding group was having similar experiences.

It makes me afraid to own a TC without a warranty, which is all of them.  I was thinking this bike was last year evo when I originally inquired.

I've got $5k plus to drop on a bike but I don't want it to drain my life savings to keep it on the road.  Have I become overly paranoid about twin cams?

I'm curious what issues your friends had with their bikes.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

1982fxr

I think it was usually engine and electrical, but I'm going off memory.

safetyfifth

No need to be worried about a TC. Both my bikes have carried me coast to coast with very few issues.
Im still running the spring loaded tensioners and cyco pads. Feuling makes a great replacement oil pump that works with the stock cam plate. Nice thing about these early twin cams, used parts are plentiful on ebay and secondhand shops.

838

Most of the issues with the early TC's were in the can chest. Tensioner our outer cam bearing failure. I've experienced both, lucky for me neither were catastrophic. They are easily remedied though and with a low mileage bike I'd do it right out of the gate and never think about it again.

Gear Drives, conversion cam plate and cams, or upgraded spring loaded tensioner pads are all viable options. Those are listed in order of how long they will last before inspection/replacement. I'd pop a set of s&s 509 gear drives in there with new inner and outer bearings, new lifters, adjustable pushrods and ride on for 100k 👍.

wolf_59

Quote from: 838 on January 16, 2021, 12:36:12 PM
Most of the issues with the early TC's were in the can chest. Tensioner our outer cam bearing failure. I've experienced both, lucky for me neither were catastrophic. They are easily remedied though and with a low mileage bike I'd do it right out of the gate and never think about it again.

Gear Drives, conversion cam plate and cams, or upgraded spring loaded tensioner pads are all viable options. Those are listed in order of how long they will last before inspection/replacement. I'd pop a set of s&s 509 gear drives in there with new inner and outer bearings, new lifters, adjustable pushrods and ride on for 100k 👍.
:up:  :up: not even sure I would change lifters those are probably better than most available

Cozz

I had my tensioners replaced a couple years ago, along with cam plate bearings. The whole job was 600 bucks. Original shoes were half gone at 30,000 miles. This was at a local Indy.
2004 Electraglide Ultra Classic

00fxd

Quote from: smoserx1 on December 22, 2020, 02:47:21 PMunless you replace the ignition module with a later one that ignores the cam position sensor.

Hey smoserx1, could you tell us the PN# of the Ign Module [and what ever other parts] to use to eliminate the CPS?
Thanks 00fxd

smoserx1

QuoteHey smoserx1, could you tell us the PN# of the Ign Module [and what ever other parts] to use to eliminate the CPS?
Thanks 00fxd

Yes it was 32478-99(A,B, or C) and also most any aftermarket adjustable one (like the Daytona Twin Tech).  The original version had no letter suffix and that one required the cam position sensor.  Please note this only applies to carbureted models.  Magneti Marelli fuel injected baggers use a different ecm that also controls fuel delivery and the cam position sensor cannot be eliminated on these models with a stock ECM upgrade (or so I think).


00fxd

Quote from: smoserx1 on January 20, 2021, 04:29:27 AM
QuoteHey smoserx1, could you tell us the PN# of the Ign Module [and what ever other parts] to use to eliminate the CPS?
Thanks 00fxd

Yes it was 32478-99(A,B, or C) and also most any aftermarket adjustable one (like the Daytona Twin Tech).  The original version had no letter suffix and that one required the cam position sensor.  Please note this only applies to carbureted models.  Magneti Marelli fuel injected baggers use a different ecm that also controls fuel delivery and the cam position sensor cannot be eliminated on these models with a stock ECM upgrade (or so I think).

I don't suppose that you could put your hands on a bulletin on that?
Frank

smoserx1

QuoteI don't suppose that you could put your hands on a bulletin on that?
No I don't think there was ever a bulletin to that effect.  This is the closest to a bulletin I have found:
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tc88faq.aspx
The information is about half way down the page. My original module (32478-99) went bad and I replaced it with a 32478-99A and have disconnected the cam sensor.  It runs fine with it disconnected.  I know it could be argued my bike is running in wasted spark mode but I believe the original module will throw a code if the cam sensor is disconnected.  The absolute proof would be to check for a spark with the plugs removed and I will admit I  have not done that.

deejay99

I have a 99 TC Road King that had the cam bearing recall work and it's been fine ever since. As far as the 15 TC problems. I have a 15 Road Glide, my daughter has a 15 Street Glide and my grandson has a 14 Road king. They have all been great bikes.

00fxd

Quote from: smoserx1 on January 21, 2021, 05:00:06 AM
QuoteI don't suppose that you could put your hands on a bulletin on that?
No I don't think there was ever a bulletin to that effect.  This is the closest to a bulletin I have found:
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tc88faq.aspx
The information is about half way down the page. My original module (32478-99) went bad and I replaced it with a 32478-99A and have disconnected the cam sensor.  It runs fine with it disconnected.  I know it could be argued my bike is running in wasted spark mode but I believe the original module will throw a code if the cam sensor is disconnected.  The absolute proof would be to check for a spark with the plugs removed and I will admit I  have not done that.

Thanks again smoserx1
Frank

Pirsch Fire Wagon

Those are great engines to upgrade as the have the Tapered Bearing limiting Lateral Runout and "most" have only a minimum of Crank Sprocket / Pinion Shaft Runout. Gear Drive Cams are a non-issue.

IMO with any build over stock [if you're planning to] a Camplate / Oil Pump Combination is the best. Besides being older, the Aftermarket had plenty of time to hone their products and the cost is considerably less for bigger builds.

As stated the Inner Cam Bearings were an issue until May 2000. But, most likely has been changed if it's had Cams. Just to verify if the owner doesn't know, SEE paperwork of find someone with access to H-DNet to look at repairs / warranty records.

I have a 2000 with 164,000 and only did the top end at 110,000 when a ring finally gave up and said I quit. The Crank and Pinion had just shy of .003 Did the top end with everything [heads, cam, hybrid camplate, oil pump, lifters, etc. ] for about $2,500 [parts].
Tom

00fxd

Quote from: smoserx1 l
Hey smoserx1.
Sorry to flog this horse but one more question
I hope]. Regarding your helpful reply to me:

"Yes it was 32478-99(A,B, or C) and also most any aftermarket adjustable one (like the Daytona Twin Tech).  The original version had no letter suffix and that one required the cam position sensor"

Is the later pn# module plug and play-no wireing mods? I'm not scared, good with soldering and shrink tube. Just leave the cam posistion sensor unplugged? How about leave the cam sens as is, the new module doesn't even see that signal anymore?
Anyone else have thoughts on this?
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but I think it's relevant to first year Twin Cam owners
Thanks, Frank

smoserx1

QuoteIs the later pn# module plug and play-no wireing mods? I'm not scared, good with soldering and shrink tube. Just leave the cam posistion sensor unplugged? How about leave the cam sens as is, the new module doesn't even see that signal anymore?
Anyone else have thoughts on this?
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but I think it's relevant to first year Twin Cam owners
Thanks, Frank

You are not hijacking anything, these are good questions.  This was my experience.  The original module on my 99 started going bad sometime around 110000 miles.  It would die and come right back to life...no codes.  This caused a very quick hiccup in power.  Originally it was every few months and got steadily worse till it was every few minutes.  The new module (with the A suffix) cured the issue.  I left the cam position sensor installed.  However several years later I read on a forum somewhere that the modules for the 2001 versions did not need  the cam sensor, and I also found out the part number I had (the A version) was what originally came on 2001 carburetor equipped models.  These models had no cam position sensor from the factory.  So, I disconnected the sensor and it ran fine.  That was about 5 years ago.  I don't think it really mattered that the sensor was wired in or not...in retrospect I am thinking the superseded ignition modules simply ignore/don't see (electrically speaking) it if it is hooked up.  I ended up simply zip tying the harness of the cam sensor to the bottom frame tube of the bike.  On a 99 you can't just physically take the sensor out or that will leave a hole in the cam cover where oil could leak out.  If it really bothered you you could replace the cam cover on a 99 or 2000 with one from a 2001  which never used a cam position sensor.  So yes it is plug and play.

00fxd

"You are not hijacking anything, these are good questions."

Thanks again smoserx1.
So with your encouragement lets keep this conversation goin' then - it's winter and I have time.
My bike is an early 2000 but it is still equipped with the cam pos sensor- 24000 miles. I used to put that mileage on in a couple of years or less. Had a '99 new that I lost in a fire at the H.D. dealership that I worked at - 19000 miles in one year.
I am aware that the cover has an access hole so one can not just just remove the sensor. I am a minimalist so I would likley snip the harness if it is not required if/when I upgrade the ign module.
Lots of miles on your bike. Good to hear. Can I ask how you have addressed your cam chain shoes?
In mine I have upgraded the cam chest bearings and installed cyco/twin power shoes.
Regards, Frank

smoserx1

QuoteLots of miles on your bike. Good to hear. Can I ask how you have addressed your cam chain shoes?
I am using conversion cams with the 2007 setup.
QuoteI would likley snip the harness if it is not required if/when I upgrade the ign module.
That should work fine.

00fxd

Quote from: smoserx1 on January 25, 2021, 06:01:25 AM
QuoteLots of miles on your bike. Good to hear. Can I ask how you have addressed your cam chain shoes?
I am using conversion cams with the 2007 setup.
QuoteI would likley snip the harness if it is not required if/when I upgrade the ign module.
That should work fine.

Thanks again man, Ride safe...

Adam76

Quote from: Buglet on December 22, 2020, 07:49:20 AM
   Just had one come in the crank run out was .0003 that is the best I ever seen. The bearing are getting replaced and putting in Cyco shoes in. Cost for parts are about $ 125.
Are Cyco still selling old style pads / shoes for the spring loaded tensioners?  I did a bit of searching and I couldn't find where to get them, couldn't when see then listed on their website  :doh: I must be blind.

Hossamania

I think this is the brand name they sell under. California Phil set me up with them and the tool.

link
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

838

Quote from: Adam76 on March 02, 2021, 06:08:19 AM
Quote from: Buglet on December 22, 2020, 07:49:20 AM
   Just had one come in the crank run out was .0003 that is the best I ever seen. The bearing are getting replaced and putting in Cyco shoes in. Cost for parts are about $ 125.
Are Cyco still selling old style pads / shoes for the spring loaded tensioners?  I did a bit of searching and I couldn't find where to get them, couldn't when see then listed on their website  :doh: I must be blind.

I bought some from BVHOG a few years ago 👍

Adam76

Quote from: Hossamania on March 02, 2021, 07:09:07 AM
I think this is the brand name they sell under. California Phil set me up with them and the tool.

link

Ahh, thanks. Makes sense now. Twin power shoes are easily found. 👍