Transmission help

[thumper 823]

How does one get the little seal out of the main drive gear?
I have a leak in all that area and replacing the main seal, quad seal, etc.
That little seal that goes over the main shaft into the drive gear looks like a 12 pack from here!
What do you guys do to get it out?
Thanx!

[lumberjacklloyd]

I will preface this by saying picks/small screw drivers should be used around sealing surfaces VERY carefully.

If you try to use a pick to get under the seal lip you will end up scratching the main shaft. I typically used a small screw driver to push in near the outer edge of the seal which causes the seal to poke out on the opposing side. Then using a small pick you can get under the seal lip easily to pull it out.

[thumper 823]

 

Evidently, this will have described a sleeve that has walked backwards into the drive sprocket a 1/4 inch or so.
There was no way to get a hold of it, so I welded two nuts onto it and pulled it off.
That took some prep and finesse!
I won that round but...
That little seal is IN THERE!
I truly don't want to disassemble the trap door to get this thing out

[xlfan]

You run the risk of damaging the MDG and/or the mainshaft where the new seal should ride, since the seal is pushed that far in.

My choice would be the choice you truly didn't want to do.

[Hybredhog]

Dental type hooks, and work from the side to get under it. Yes, worse case scenario is to pull tranny door with gear cluster. Might not be a bad thing to check main shaft surface, as when that bushing race walks in, it can take out  one of the needle bearings in the drive gear & boogers up the shaft. Replace race with an S&S unit.

[thumper 823]

There is no getting this out of there.
I quit when i noticed there is about 10 thou end play and the book says zero. (main shaft)
Also where the sleeve was there is a rough area exactly the place the seal would be ..
SOOooooo......
So maybe I need a new main shaft or some sort of a speedy sleeve?
Not sure what to do about the end play.
At least I have defined tomorrow's occupation.

[rigidthumper]

Check the trap door bearings for lateral movement- sounds like it's time for a refresh?

[thumper 823]

Being this will go turbo next turn around and I am already there..
Yes, a new trap door now.
You guys suggest anything else so as not to waste the labor this time ?
Baker door?

[thumper 823]

You guys have a recommendation for a trap door from who?

[kd]

How about this ?  Click on the trap door frames to enlarge.

[thumper 823]

I have nothing against Baker products,
i am just curious what everyone else has used and if they are happy with it?

[kd]

I have nothing against Baker products,
i am just curious what everyone else has used and if they are happy with it?

The Baker web site doesn't list your trap door separately for some reason.  The one thing worth noting is they advertise their trap door to be used when the OEM stuff wont hold big power.  Then they warranty it for 5 yrs.    

[les]

You should inspect the needle bearings in the main drive gear.  I've seen those disintegrate. When that happens it leaves wear marks on the main shaft.

[thumper 823]

The main drive gear is going to be replaced....or perhaps now adding it all up, it might be cheaper to replace the whole transmission.
Counting bearings, trap door, N1 shift drum...etc
I HATE wasting labor so whilst I am all ready in there..... do it all.
The N1 seems like a great idea!
Someone removed the main drive with a sledge at one time as the first couple of threads are busted off..I am sure it is fine
But my conscience will bother me.
I hate doing stuff trailer park bash.

[kd]

The DD5 does look like a decent option. I have the N1 pattern in my GrudgeBox.  It's great for finding neutral and works well with a Pingel speed shifter. It's tough remembering to click it all down at a stop is neutral and you have to pull it up one to be in first and ready to go. Same for parking lots when you pull in. I still (after the second year) find myself watching for my neutral light so I know where I am.  I had a reverse pattern for years (in the mid 70's to mid 80's) and still have caught myself daydreaming up a down shift because of the learned pattern. I am still waiting for the N1 to become natural but like the way it works.

[Deye76]

"You guys have a recommendation for a trap door from who?"


https://www.zippersperformance.com/bisagno-trans/

[thumper 823]

The DD6 just splits the owers gears one more time right?
IDK for sure.
I know Baker offers an overdrive ......
but-
The current thinking from big-brained engineers is this-
O.D. is parasitic.
It is better to have a proper final rear ratio with enough gears to get ya up there.
Then the tans is running one to one which is more efficient.
That is something I have never thought of until the recent explanation.

[thumper 823]

"You guys have a recommendation for a trap door from who?"


https://www.zippersperformance.com/bisagno-trans/

Thanx ,- never heard of them or him-I will have to research it.

I googled him and found nothing-whats the story?
thanx

[kd]

Sorry, I just realized I miss typed and meant DD5.  I am not sure the DD6 would even fit in the 5 spd case. 

FWIW the GrudgeBox 6th gear overdrive is so close to 5th gear you barely notice the drop in RPM.  On a strip that should put you through the trap before needing it.  The gears are well spaced for big power.  You can gear your final drive appropriately and use 6th for highway. You are using chain at this point anyway and rear sprocket swaps are easy.

[thumper 823]

"You guys have a recommendation for a trap door from who?"


https://www.zippersperformance.com/bisagno-trans/

Thanx
The double row looks impressive -I could find no other information for it, or who the brothers are,  but zippers is a great store and always helpfull.
i ordered it .
thanx for the link.

[Deye76]

Turboprop gets credit for posting the link many times in the past. He and others I know, put out north of 150hp/tq, and use them. They stay together while other things break.

[thumper 823]

Turboprop gets credit for posting the link many times in the past. He and others I know, put out north of 150hp/tq, and use them. They stay together while other things break.

Okay
well thanx turboprop, may your constant speed never lose oil P.!

We all try to help each other, it is a great board.

[thumper 823]

It turns out nothing is ordered as zips and i guess everyone is closed for a few days...
Question -
What is recommended here for a shifter kit?
Baker Smooth shift?
Or
Their N1 shift ststem?
Or?
What have you tried and liked?
thanx

[kd]

I mentioned my experience with the N1 pattern and I like it.  It's just a new pattern that you have to get used to.  The thing I noticed is I found myself pulling to a stop at an intersection and automatically shifting down to where 1st gear "used to be".  When I went to pull away it was in neutral.

For the other years I mentioned, I ran a reverse (short gate) pattern I built by modifying the Harley levers and mountings.  I was hot rodding and you couldn't beat it for banging shifts.  You didn't want to let anyone else ride it though.  They would downshift by accident when under power. I had to adjust to that pattern too.  I rode that pattern for so long I still catch myself wanting to do it. I guess that means I liked it too.

I like them both.   The N1 sure simplifies finding neutral and works well with the Pingel speed shifter.   

[thumper 823]

Thanx!
So it is Neutral at the bottom and all up from there correct?