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Solid lifters

Started by Nick9900, April 10, 2021, 04:10:06 PM

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Nick9900

So adjusting I follow the TDC do the rods spin snuggly roll around one valve open and check the opposite closed seems much looser than TDC. This normal?

kd

Are you sure it was TDC compression and cold engine?  It's possible it backed off when you were tightening the lock nut.

Another way is on each cylinder, one valve opening (lifter rising) and adjust the other valve. You are right that the pushrod should just barely spin between your fingers.  To much effort can actually let compression bleed off when very cold.  If the lifter cup has a spring under it you don't count that tension.  When it's too tight to turn them, back it off slightly until it can just be spun with your fingers.
KD

Nick9900

Yes confident it's TDC, ran through several times. Felt good at it and slightly more loose with one valve completely open and spinning its opposite.

Ohio HD

Are these the solid conversions that have the spring under the lifter insert, and the push rods have the adjustment? They can be deceiving as to actually adjusting the push rod correctly.

Nick9900

That I'm not sure,  I didn't build the motor it was together when I got it. The pushrods themselves aren't adjustable.. :idunno:

Ohio HD

You probably have something like these. The way I adjust solids is take all of the play out of them when the valve is completely closed. Even if the push rod has some slight drag when you spin it, it'll get loose as soon as the motor warms up and expands.




Nick9900


kd

Quote from: Ohio HD on April 10, 2021, 06:21:57 PM
You probably have something like these. The way I adjust solids is take all of the play out of them when the valve is completely closed. Even if the push rod has some slight drag when you spin it, it'll get loose as soon as the motor warms up and expands.





:up:  That's why it's important to have a cold engine when adjusting.  Slight drag is good.
KD

Ohio HD

Yeah, adjusting solids in an HD takes a few times to get the feel of things. Unlike a car or some motorcycles where a feeler gauge is used to adjust solid lifters.

guppymech

April 11, 2021, 07:48:44 AM #9 Last Edit: April 11, 2021, 09:57:09 AM by guppymech
I use the EOIC method.  When the Exhaust is Opening adjust that cylinders intake, then roll the engine around until the Intake valve is Closing then adjust the exhaust.  When done this way the valve you're looking to adjust will be on the base circle. 
'84 FXE, '02 883R

RTMike

The best way I have found is with the plugs out turn the engine over until the valve closes while tuning the motor over try spinning the pushrod when at the looses point adjust till it spins with some pressure on it then turn the motor over again checking for the loosest spot and adjust again if necessary .Then adjust the other three.
Remember the engine grows taller when hot so as long as you can turn the pushrods with your finger you are good to go and not so noisy.

rbabos

Quote from: Ohio HD on April 10, 2021, 06:21:57 PM
You probably have something like these. The way I adjust solids is take all of the play out of them when the valve is completely closed. Even if the push rod has some slight drag when you spin it, it'll get loose as soon as the motor warms up and expands.




Loose is an understatement. I did solids once on my pan. Took the clearance to zero , cold setting and it was rattle city when hot. Over time and some seat wear, one day, you have no compression when it's cold. That was the day when I discovered why hydraulics were invented. Mind you, on my knuckle and cast heads the solids worked ok. Less expansion.
Ron

One4Tone

..I would check to see if all push rods are the same length...Seems to me the intakes are the same for sure...the front exhaust is the longest..and the rear exhaust a tad shorter...maybe it was a mismatch someone put together but I had a 56 pan 40 years ago and there was a Sifton kit in there and push rtods were different lengths..not by much mind you...