97" build specs and check list

[Adam76]

Hey folks, just about to start my 97" build,  2002 fatboy.

Just thought I'd post up my build for checking before I get started. Yes, this is only my second build and only got through the last one without any hiccups because of the great help received here. 

So far I've got -
Stock CV carb probably rejetted by previous owner
Big sucker air cleaner kit
A set of 2010 96" heads taken off a brand new heritage when it got a stage IV at the dealership. I've had then cc'ed and they are 84.5cc and 85.4cc.
Stock headers with what look like SE slip ons (exactly what type yet to be confirmed)

This is what I'm thinking -
Pretty much leaving the 96" heads as they are?
S&S 570CE easy start chain drive cams, keeping the OEM cam plate set up just installing new shoes plus regular inspection for wear etc.
The new wiseco pro lite 10.1 comp 97" pistons and rings
Current cylinders bored to new pistons (torque plates) and ring gaps professionally set.
Cometic .030 head gasket kit and rocker cover gasket kit.
Baisley 15% oil pressure spring mod
Comp cams 850 lifters
Stock pushrods as not milling heads at this point
DTT ignition, replacement coil and SE plugs and leads

Punched into the big boys calculator gives puts me right on 10.4 static,  9,46 dynamic and 200 ccp... ** I thought 10.3 was the safe limit with this cam?  Should I be looking at a different cam?  Or lower compression pistons?

I'm planning on a good dyno tune either way.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Cheers

[Scotty]

I would prefer to us 2313 lifters from Larry but otherwise build looks good.

[Adam76]

I would prefer to us 2313 lifters from Larry but otherwise build looks good.

Yep, I could do better lifters. 👍

[Hossamania]

Should be a good runner!

[Adam76]

Should be a good runner!

Thanks Hoss. I'm not real happy with the compression being on the high side at 10.4....

If I drop down to a JE 98"  piston kit with 9.5 comp pistons,  but then I'll have to mill the heads a little to get the ideal compression ratio...

it's either that, or use a different cam to bleed off some of the dynamic compression?

[rigidthumper]

Id say you're in the perfect zone, as long as you can readily get premium (95-98 octane) fuel.

[kd]

I expect a good quality tuning device and tuner will resolve any fears you have.  Remember that the M8's are waaaaay higher compression than that with most CCP at 220ish (and more).  They seem to be surviving well.

[838]

Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

[Adam76]

Id say you're in the perfect zone, as long as you can readily get premium (95-98 octane) fuel.

Ok, thanks for the assurance 👍. I can readily get what we call 98 premium unleaded here in Australia.  Cheers

[Adam76]

Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

[kd]

Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

Pretty well all of the better tuners are saying OEM plug wires and include the Accell as a poor choice along with the SE as 838 pointed out.  Another place to maybe save some money but you won't have those sexy colored leads.

[Hossamania]

I would also recommend sticking with stock wires.
If you go gear drive, you may want to consider manual compression releases installed in the heads.

[838]

Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

Pretty well all of the better tuners are saying OEM plug wires and include the Accell as a poor choice along with the SE as 838 pointed out.  Another place to maybe save some money but you won't have those sexy colored leads.

They do look good... I had the red ones 

[koko3052]

I would go with comp. releases just for the time that you are in a far away place with a weak battery....it just may keep you from a long walk.

[Scotty]

It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms 

[kd]

   Forgot about the carb part. 

[Adam76]

It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms 

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

[Hossamania]

I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

[Adam76]

I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

[FXDBI]

It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms 

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

Proper break in and it will give you years of trouble free running.  I am sure you will be pleased with the combination.  Bob

[Hossamania]

I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

If compression turns out to be an issue, would a thicker head gasket help?

[Adam76]

It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms 

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

Proper break in and it will give you years of trouble free running.  I am sure you will be pleased with the combination.  Bob

Thanks Bob, so you don't think the compression is too high for this build and cam?

[Adam76]

I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

If compression turns out to be an issue, would a thicker head gasket help?

Yes, technically right Hoss. But then I don't have the optimum squish that the .030 gives you.

[Scotty]

I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.

[FXDBI]

I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.

   I think you will just love it , have fun with the build and remember clean clean then clean again can never be to clean on a engine.   Bob