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97" build specs and check list

Started by Adam76, February 23, 2021, 09:18:22 PM

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Adam76

February 23, 2021, 09:18:22 PM Last Edit: February 24, 2021, 01:54:09 AM by Adam76
Hey folks, just about to start my 97" build,  2002 fatboy.

Just thought I'd post up my build for checking before I get started. Yes, this is only my second build and only got through the last one without any hiccups because of the great help received here.  :soda:

So far I've got -
Stock CV carb probably rejetted by previous owner
Big sucker air cleaner kit
A set of 2010 96" heads taken off a brand new heritage when it got a stage IV at the dealership. I've had then cc'ed and they are 84.5cc and 85.4cc.
Stock headers with what look like SE slip ons (exactly what type yet to be confirmed)

This is what I'm thinking -
Pretty much leaving the 96" heads as they are?
S&S 570CE easy start chain drive cams, keeping the OEM cam plate set up just installing new shoes plus regular inspection for wear etc.
The new wiseco pro lite 10.1 comp 97" pistons and rings
Current cylinders bored to new pistons (torque plates) and ring gaps professionally set.
Cometic .030 head gasket kit and rocker cover gasket kit.
Baisley 15% oil pressure spring mod
Comp cams 850 lifters
Stock pushrods as not milling heads at this point
DTT ignition, replacement coil and SE plugs and leads

Punched into the big boys calculator gives puts me right on 10.4 static,  9,46 dynamic and 200 ccp... ** I thought 10.3 was the safe limit with this cam?  Should I be looking at a different cam?  Or lower compression pistons?

I'm planning on a good dyno tune either way.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Cheers

Scotty

I would prefer to us 2313 lifters from Larry but otherwise build looks good.

Adam76

February 23, 2021, 09:36:09 PM #2 Last Edit: February 23, 2021, 09:52:16 PM by Adam76
Quote from: Scotty on February 23, 2021, 09:33:40 PM
I would prefer to us 2313 lifters from Larry but otherwise build looks good.
Yep, I could do better lifters. 👍

Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Adam76

February 24, 2021, 05:52:39 AM #4 Last Edit: February 24, 2021, 06:34:29 AM by Adam76
Quote from: Hossamania on February 24, 2021, 05:07:04 AM
Should be a good runner!

Thanks Hoss. I'm not real happy with the compression being on the high side at 10.4....

If I drop down to a JE 98"  piston kit with 9.5 comp pistons,  but then I'll have to mill the heads a little to get the ideal compression ratio...

it's either that, or use a different cam to bleed off some of the dynamic compression?

rigidthumper

Id say you're in the perfect zone, as long as you can readily get premium (95-98 octane) fuel.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

kd

I expect a good quality tuning device and tuner will resolve any fears you have.  Remember that the M8's are waaaaay higher compression than that with most CCP at 220ish (and more).  They seem to be surviving well.
KD

838

Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Adam76

Quote from: rigidthumper on February 24, 2021, 07:49:41 AM
Id say you're in the perfect zone, as long as you can readily get premium (95-98 octane) fuel.

Ok, thanks for the assurance 👍. I can readily get what we call 98 premium unleaded here in Australia.  Cheers

Adam76

Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 11:14:46 AM
Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

kd

Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 12:28:04 PM
Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 11:14:46 AM
Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

Pretty well all of the better tuners are saying OEM plug wires and include the Accell as a poor choice along with the SE as 838 pointed out.  Another place to maybe save some money but you won't have those sexy colored leads.
KD

Hossamania

I would also recommend sticking with stock wires.
If you go gear drive, you may want to consider manual compression releases installed in the heads.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

838

Quote from: kd on February 24, 2021, 12:42:00 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 12:28:04 PM
Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 11:14:46 AM
Might wanna look at adjustable pushrods. Early cam tensioners are a maintenance item and adjustable will make it easier to get in the cam plate. I ran stock pushrods on a 570 no problem, but it was hydraulic tensioners.

I'm a big fan of the quickee pushrods from s&s 👍

Also, Bob Lobenberg (a pretty solid tuner on the west coast) told me about SE plug wires causing false spark nock retard on fuel injected bikes. Don't know about carbed 🤷‍♂️.

Thanks 838, I actually meant performance leads (Accell) not  SE  😎 .

Good idea with the adjustables  -- or I have the option of going with gear drives and losing the chains altogether... a few more $$ but might be worth it?  It's an '02 so I haven't checked crank run out yet but I'm hoping it's going to be in spec or at least less than .003
Cheers

Pretty well all of the better tuners are saying OEM plug wires and include the Accell as a poor choice along with the SE as 838 pointed out.  Another place to maybe save some money but you won't have those sexy colored leads.

They do look good... I had the red ones  :bike:

koko3052



I would go with comp. releases just for the time that you are in a far away place with a weak battery....it just may keep you from a long walk.

Scotty

It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms  :bike:

kd

KD

Adam76

Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 01:09:25 PM
It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms  :bike:

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

Hossamania

I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Adam76

Quote from: Hossamania on February 24, 2021, 02:11:04 PM
I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

FXDBI

Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 01:28:22 PM
Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 01:09:25 PM
It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms  :bike:

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

Proper break in and it will give you years of trouble free running.  I am sure you will be pleased with the combination.  Bob

Hossamania

Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 02:17:48 PM
Quote from: Hossamania on February 24, 2021, 02:11:04 PM
I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

If compression turns out to be an issue, would a thicker head gasket help?
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Adam76

Quote from: FXDBI on February 24, 2021, 02:38:28 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 01:28:22 PM
Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 01:09:25 PM
It's a carb model so run whatever ignition leads you want, the EFI models I always run the stock wires and plugs due to knock sensor which was a bit dicey in the early EFI models.
If you do go gears (i would) you can close up the cam chest and not bother looking again for around 160,000 kms  :bike:

Thanks Scotty, I'm seriously weighing up the cost / benefit of going with the compete gear drive Easy start kit instead.  Double the price,  but may be worth it,

Proper break in and it will give you years of trouble free running.  I am sure you will be pleased with the combination.  Bob

Thanks Bob, so you don't think the compression is too high for this build and cam?

Adam76

Quote from: Hossamania on February 24, 2021, 02:40:31 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on February 24, 2021, 02:17:48 PM
Quote from: Hossamania on February 24, 2021, 02:11:04 PM
I have gear drive cams. Whenever talk of tensioners comes up, I get to ignore it, for 16 years now. It's pretty sweet.
Red wires will work with the carb, I got lost on that part too.

Grear drives and easy start cams aside, it was the compression that concerned me the most.
Cheers

If compression turns out to be an issue, would a thicker head gasket help?
Yes, technically right Hoss. But then I don't have the optimum squish that the .030 gives you.

Scotty

I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.

FXDBI

Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 02:49:18 PM
I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.

:agree:   I think you will just love it , have fun with the build and remember clean clean then clean again can never be to clean on a engine.   Bob

838

I did a 570 at 10.3:1 in a 117. It can run all day on 89 octane CA pump gas... though it gets 91 mostly... with 98 octane readily available I doubt 10.4:1 will even be an issue.

Adam76

Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 03:21:31 PM
I did a 570 at 10.3:1 in a 117. It can run all day on 89 octane CA pump gas... though it gets 91 mostly... with 98 octane readily available I doubt 10.4:1 will even be an issue.
:up: :up: thanks

Adam76

Quote from: FXDBI on February 24, 2021, 03:09:17 PM
Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 02:49:18 PM
I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.

:agree:   I think you will just love it , have fun with the build and remember clean clean then clean again can never be to clean on a engine.   Bob

Thanks Bob,  :up:

Adam76

Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 02:49:18 PM
I think you will find the pistons down the hole a little more than you have allowed and average 1000ft for altitude in OZ and you are pretty well set for compression.
Thanks Scotty, just wanted to make sure I didn't end up with a ping monster.   :emoGroan:

Scotty

Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 03:21:31 PM
I did a 570 at 10.3:1 in a 117. It can run all day on 89 octane CA pump gas... though it gets 91 mostly... with 98 octane readily available I doubt 10.4:1 will even be an issue.

Different fuel US vs Australia so US uses AKI we use RON so
94 US is 98 AUST
91 US is 95 AUST
89 US is 92 AUST

Have to be careful when comparing fuels between a world forum as not everyone lives in the USA

Adam76

February 25, 2021, 12:23:59 AM #30 Last Edit: February 25, 2021, 05:58:21 AM by Adam76
Quote from: Scotty on February 24, 2021, 09:30:37 PM
Quote from: 838 on February 24, 2021, 03:21:31 PM
I did a 570 at 10.3:1 in a 117. It can run all day on 89 octane CA pump gas... though it gets 91 mostly... with 98 octane readily available I doubt 10.4:1 will even be an issue.

Different fuel US vs Australia so US uses AKI we use RON so
94 US is 98 AUST
91 US is 95 AUST
89 US is 92 AUST

Have to be careful when comparing fuels between a world forum as not everyone lives in the USA

😁 Funny you mention that Scotty. I was just comparing all the 97" and 98" big bore  pistons - KB,  Wiseco and CP  and there's quite a discrepancy and variance in the  stated dome sizes and the advertised compression ratios. Since I was thinking of a way to slightly reduce my compression....

Wiseco pro like lite 97" pistons are advertised to give 10-1 compression (stock heads) but actually have a 6.5cc dome and give me more like 10.4 on the calculator and  200ccp.
Where as the CP  98" pistons that are actually advertised as 10.25:1 only have a 6cc dome and therefore give me an actually slightly less compression ratio of 10.35.... and 9.5 dynamic

John Sachs was right when he said don't trust just what you read  about piston domes and compression without measuring.

CP also do a 98" 10.1 piston with an even smaller 3cc dome which is the one in going with so I can mill the heads and use the .030 HG to get me right on 195-197ccp. 👍


Adam76

February 25, 2021, 12:40:57 AM #31 Last Edit: February 25, 2021, 05:51:18 AM by Adam76
With a 97"/98" piston,  I need the cometic head gasket with the 3.937" bore, obviously the cylinder bore has to exactly match the gasket bore right?
Not many suppliers are showing stock of the Cometic #10034 top end kit...
Cheers.

kd

Before trimming the head, mock up the pistons and barrels.  If your quench (squish) is below the deck you can take advantage of a clean-up and true the barrels at the same time. It may be a better option so your heads can be repurposed without the restriction induced by trimming them.  Replacement barrels are much less money and more available as used and seasoned.  Also, remember that Cometic has a .027 gasket that will get you there or closer if you are only in the .003ish below deck range.  It sounds like you will have a great build.  IMO the extra care in planning you are taking will pay big dividends going forward. 
KD

04rkryder

Those are CP Bullet Pistons with a C\H of 1.265. Theoretically a C\H of 1.270 will get a zero deck height on a TC88 with 4" stroke. So like KD said, a little trimming on top and bottom and you'll have nice flat surfaces on those cylinders.

Adam76

Quote from: kd on February 25, 2021, 06:48:15 AM
Before trimming the head, mock up the pistons and barrels.  If your quench (squish) is below the deck you can take advantage of a clean-up and true the barrels at the same time. It may be a better option so your heads can be repurposed without the restriction induced by trimming them.  Replacement barrels are much less money and more available as used and seasoned.  Also, remember that Cometic has a .027 gasket that will get you there or closer if you are only in the .003ish below deck range.  It sounds like you will have a great build.  IMO the extra care in planning you are taking will pay big dividends going forward.
Thanks kd, I agree.
On my last build I did trim the base of the cylinders to get close to zero deck height.  :up:

Adam76

Quote from: 04rkryder on February 25, 2021, 07:05:23 AM
Those are CP Bullet Pistons with a C\H of 1.265. Theoretically a C\H of 1.270 will get a zero deck height on a TC88 with 4" stroke. So like KD said, a little trimming on top and bottom and you'll have nice flat surfaces on those cylinders.
👍 thanks

Adam76

February 28, 2021, 05:34:09 PM #36 Last Edit: February 28, 2021, 05:39:15 PM by Adam76
Quote from: kd on February 25, 2021, 06:48:15 AM
Before trimming the head, mock up the pistons and barrels.  If your quench (squish) is below the deck you can take advantage of a clean-up and true the barrels at the same time. It may be a better option so your heads can be repurposed without the restriction induced by trimming them.  Replacement barrels are much less money and more available as used and seasoned.  Also, remember that Cometic has a .027 gasket that will get you there or closer if you are only in the .003ish below deck range.  It sounds like you will have a great build.  IMO the extra care in planning you are taking will pay big dividends going forward.

Thanks kd.
If I end up using the CR575 std cams (not S&S easy starts) what's the general ccp that you can go up to before needing compression releases?
Thanks.

kd

If I'm not mistaken, your 2010 heads may be set up for ACR's.  If so, lots of guys here are using them tied into their starter solenoid (green wire?).  I have a friend using the CR575 cams and he may be at 10.5 to one. It was done at Cycle Rama including headwork.  He has manuals in it but doesn't need them all the time.  A heat soaked engine at the pumps or a weak 07 up compensator can cause kick backs on his. In your climate you may want to consider either option. The ACR's don't burn your fingers if you're day dreaming.  :wink: The manuals might be less expensive but machining is required for install.

By the way, my buddies street glide goes like a scalded cat and makes me work with my 120.  :SM: He also occasionally pulls a camper trailer w/cooler while 2 up on trips (including mountains) and has a sidecar rig attached on occasion too.  IMO the CR575 is a great all around cam that serves many masters.
KD

Adam76

Quote from: kd on February 28, 2021, 06:19:15 PM
If I'm not mistaken, your 2010 heads may be set up for ACR's.  If so, lots of guys here are using them tied into their starter solenoid (green wire?).  I have a friend using the CR575 cams and he may be at 10.5 to one. It was done at Cycle Rama including headwork.  He has manuals in it but doesn't need them all the time.  A heat soaked engine at the pumps or a weak 07 up compensator can cause kick backs on his. In your climate you may want to consider either option. The ACR's don't burn your fingers if you're day dreaming.  :wink: The manuals might be less expensive but machining is required for install.

By the way, my buddies street glide goes like a scalded cat and makes me work with my 120.  :SM: He also occasionally pulls a camper trailer w/cooler while 2 up on trips (including mountains) and has a sidecar rig attached on occasion too.  IMO the CR575 is a great all around cam that serves many masters.

Yep, great cam, I just didn't consider it at first because I don't have compression releases in my 2010 heads and I will have to get them machined and fitted... This option might actuality work out better for me as it's easier in my situation to get to 10.1 compression with just pistons that it is to get to 10.2 / 10.3 that the s&s570 likes. Just another option to consider. 
Cheers

kd

Larger battery cables are a good start. They are much overlooked as a remedy for cranking issues with higher compression and hot start types of issues. I use them and noticed better performance starting with them. You can buy them or make a set.
KD

Adam76

Quote from: kd on February 28, 2021, 06:38:28 PM
Larger battery cables are a good start. They are much overlooked as a remedy for cranking issues with higher compression and hot start types of issues. I use them and noticed better performance starting with them. You can buy them or make a set.

Any suggestions on a good set of cables?  :up:

HogMike

Quote
Any suggestions on a good set of cables?  :up:

I bought some Terry Cable years ago at a show for the green bike with the S&S motor.
Worth the $$ IMHO.
Heavy duty and very flexible.
He's in SoCal. :missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

FSG

Quote from: Adam76 on February 28, 2021, 08:27:20 PM
Any suggestions on a good set of cables?  :up:

visit your local auto electrician and get them made

kd

Quote from: HogMike on February 28, 2021, 08:44:18 PM
Quote
Any suggestions on a good set of cables?  :up:

I bought some Terry Cable years ago at a show for the green bike with the S&S motor.
Worth the $$ IMHO.
Heavy duty and very flexible.
He's in SoCal. :missed:


I know you folks down under get hosed on shipping buying in the US like us poor Canucks but the Terry Cable kits are pre-made including the extra leads if any. They were great to deal with.  I use them too and like HogMike says, they are worth it.  Check the cost before you go to a local shop. It may be a better deal.
KD

Adam76

Quote from: kd on February 28, 2021, 09:30:27 PM
Quote from: HogMike on February 28, 2021, 08:44:18 PM
Quote
Any suggestions on a good set of cables?  :up:

I bought some Terry Cable years ago at a show for the green bike with the S&S motor.
Worth the $$ IMHO.
Heavy duty and very flexible.
He's in SoCal. :missed:


I know you folks down under get hosed on shipping buying in the US like us poor Canucks but the Terry Cable kits are pre-made including the extra leads if any. They were great to deal with.  I use them too and like HogMike says, they are worth it.  Check the cost before you go to a local shop. It may be a better deal.
:up:

Scotty

I built my own cables very flexible cable and ends I bought from Jaycar.
Crimped the ends and soldered as well and was good to throw the stiff stock ones in the bin.

98fxstc

What gauge are we talking for these cables ?

PC_Hater

On my 99 FLTRI I used the fattest heavy duty flexible marine quality cable that I could find.
It stops being defined by wire gauge and becomes mm2.

This is what I bought:-
912/0.3, 70mm², 485A, cable OD 15.5mm, available in red or black at £15.63 per metre

I also bought heavy duty crimp terminals, and a nice crimp tool.
For the 'normal' bike wiring to the fuses etc I used 80Amp rated 10AWG silicone very flexible cable. The copper core is 4mm diameter - 12.56mm2.

The voltage drops are very low and the stock starter spins the little 88" motor like the plugs are out!
      
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

rigidthumper

Stock plate will be fine if it isn't damaged.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Adam76


Deye76

Stock pump if in good shape, too. I ran a stock pump in a 130hp 113" for a lot of miles.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

Adam76

Quote from: Deye76 on March 02, 2021, 06:28:03 AM
Stock pump if in good shape, too. I ran a stock pump in a 130hp 113" for a lot of miles.

Thanks,  I'll check it for wear / scoring marks. 👍

838

Quote from: Adam76 on March 02, 2021, 06:31:17 AM
Quote from: Deye76 on March 02, 2021, 06:28:03 AM
Stock pump if in good shape, too. I ran a stock pump in a 130hp 113" for a lot of miles.

Thanks,  I'll check it for wear / scoring marks. 👍

Daytona Pumps are a real good replacement too 👍.

Adam76

April 03, 2021, 10:31:11 PM #53 Last Edit: April 04, 2021, 06:27:02 AM by Adam76
Finally got started on the build 😁  drained the oil and it would have to be the blackest oil I've ever seen, even blacker than my black Labrador.  But surprisingly the cam chest doesn't look too bad.

Still waiting on my tensioner removal tool to arrive before I can go any further.

But without removing them yet - the tensioners and pads don't look too worn or about to disintegrate? Bikes done around 30K miles supposedly (just had to replace the Speedo sensor to get Speedo working again) so I had feared the worst.

Nothing exciting, but now the fun begins.

Plans have also changed a bit with picking up a new set of CR575 early style chain drive cams pretty cheap. Will now be Looking at a set of Wiseco tracker small dome 95" pistons instead of the KBs to keep the compression at 10-1 and ccp 195 with the 575 cams.

Wishing you all a happy Easter and commemorating resurrection day. 🙏

Adam76

Quote from: Adam76 on April 03, 2021, 10:31:11 PM
Finally got started on the build 😁  drained the oil and it would have to be the blackest oil I've ever seen, even blacker than my black Labrador.  But surprisingly the cam chest doesn't look too bad.

Still waiting on my tensioner removal tool to arrive before I can go any further.

But without removing them yet - the tensioners and pads don't look too worn or about to disintegrate? Bikes done around 30K US miles supposedly -  I had to replace the Speedo sensor on top of the transmission to get Speedo working again...so not knowing the true mileage  I had feared the worst.

Nothing exciting so far, but now the fun begins.

Plans have also changed a bit with picking up a new set of CR575 early style chain drive cams pretty cheap. Will now be Looking at a set of Wiseco tracker small dome 95" pistons instead of the KBs to keep the compression at 10-1 and ccp 195 with the 575 cams.

Wishing you all a happy Easter and commemorating resurrection day. 🙏

03rg

Tensioner removal tool? Last time I did this pretty sure a small channel lock and an finish nail (4d?) to hold the tensioner in place away from the chain was all that was needed.

Adam76

Quote from: 03rg on April 04, 2021, 06:52:51 AM
Tensioner removal tool? Last time I did this pretty sure a small channel lock and an finish nail (4d?) to hold the tensioner in place away from the chain was all that was needed.

Yeah, probably. 😁
This is what I got cheap off eBay.

Adam76

April 16, 2021, 01:03:45 AM #57 Last Edit: April 16, 2021, 01:08:51 AM by Adam76
Hi guys,

So far with my 95" pistons, '09 model heads and and CR575 cams I'm "calculated at" dynamic compression ratio of 9.35 and ccp 195... (** probably slightly less in reality I'm guessing.)

Borderline needing manual comp releases? I have a new starter clutch going in and new Terry Components battery cables.

It's going to cost me another AUS $350 just to add the compression releases.

Do I need them? Or can I get away without them? I didnt budget this much just for manual releases but I obviously don't want to save a penny just to have to spend a dollar by having to then replace a starter motor so would appreciate your advice on this part.

Thanks.

FSG

if $$ are getting tight just fit a CR to the front head 

Adam76

Quote from: FSG on April 16, 2021, 01:52:42 AM
if $$ are getting tight just fit a CR to the front head

Thanks FSG.  That would halve the cost and help the budget.

Cheers

FSG

if the heads are off you could also just have the rear head machined for a CR and then just plug it

Adam76

Quote from: FSG on April 16, 2021, 02:01:12 AM
if the heads are off you could also just have the rear head machined for a CR and then just plug it

Yes, heads are off. 
Believe it or not the machining of the heads to fit the releases are the most expensive part. $120 per side to drill and tap.
The releases I can get for around $60 each.

FSG


Adam76

Quote from: FSG on April 16, 2021, 02:36:48 AM
just the front then .......   :SM:

Thanks, I'm curious to know why / how it works doing the front only?
Appreciate it. 👍