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2002 forks in 1960 trees

Started by hd76fxlr, March 15, 2021, 12:29:37 PM

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hd76fxlr

Put 2002 forks and wheel in 1960 trees. Wheel doesn't center in forks ! Thoughts ?

[attach=0,msg1380826] 

[attach=1,msg1380826]

Hossamania

March 15, 2021, 12:32:59 PM #1 Last Edit: March 15, 2021, 12:40:26 PM by Hossamania
Edit
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Hossamania

How far off from center is it? Is the brake causing it to stay off center? If so, it will need to be shimmed, and wheel spacers made to match.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

hd76fxlr

Brake lines up since I'm using 2002 wheel and disc.

hd76fxlr

I've seen pics of this front end on a Shovel . It might work as is but : fender won't fit !

Buglet

    The stock fender won't work with that front end. You need a dual disk lower legs for the early fender to work and remove the caliper mount off the right leg or run dual disk. Plus the leg look more like the original ones on how the fender mounts.

JW113

I think your problem is the fork center spacing is different on Shovelheads, Softails, and Evo & later baggers. If you had used the fork trees from the bike you got the forks from, it would center up.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

billbuilds

     I 'm seeing a 16" FL style wheel on a set of  FX lower legs. I believe that the spacing is different. Mr Hoss touched on what will be needed to center that wheel. 
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

JW113

I  think it's more likely an 41mm FL Softail front end. FX would be 39mm....

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

billbuilds

    FX WideGlide would be 41mm.  Those are not FL legs. 
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

Hossamania

I've never done a front end like this, but here is my amateur procedure: I would remove the caliper and wheel spacers, center the wheel on the axle, install the caliper on the rotor with no bolts, and measure the space between the caliper and the fork leg, and shim it there. Next would be to measure for the wheel spacers needed, procure them, and go from there.
Like I said, I've never done this, so I don't know how close I am to the proper procedure.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

billbuilds

     I'm not sure how married the OP is to that 16" wheel that he has however the easiest thing to do (but not necessarily the least expensive) would be to purchase a 16" wheel with a hub made for a 00-06 FXST  or 00-05 FXDWG. There are such animals on the auction site, just do a quick search. The axle spacers wouldn''t be too tough to make for the existing wheel but the rotor spacer is going to be a bit more involved.  Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

Buglet

  Those legs look like they or off a Wideglide which has the fender mounts off set. that is also make the wheel not looking in the center. Fl and Wideglide trees are the same width to Fatboys are narrower. Once you had the rotor line up and the rim can be shift over with the spokes. I had a customer trying to do one for over four years yes four years. I not going to tell you how many new rims he brought and shops he went to. I think I've could of bought a complete bike in what he invested trying to do this. I won't say what else they did. In the end he ended up using the original spacers and his first wheel. Right now I think he has enough spare wheels  and spacers for the rest of his life. It is a simple job do not over think. 

billbuilds

     I agree that the rotor has to go where it is to line up with the caliper. Note how much space is left on the (to the rider) right side of the wheel. It appears to me that the entire hub needs to move to the right to fill atleast half of this space. This will necessitate a spacer between the rotor and the flange on the hub.
     Starting out with the correct hub is more than half of the battle. He would be able to use stock wheel spacers and there'd be no need for a rotor spacer. What I was getting at was if the OP could get his money out of his exisitng wheel by selling it he would have some/most of the funds needed to get the correctly "hubbed" wheel if he is really intent on running a 16" wheel  with those fork legs. Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

hd76fxlr

i am Hip t the over thinking ! ! I measured from fender bracket to rim and came up with 1 3/16 on left and 1 11/16 on right . The wheel and caliper will need to go 1/4 in. to the right to make everything center. I guess spacing the rotor will be safer than spacing the caliper ! The axle is from a Softail and is a little short .  Do you think aluminum is alright for axle spacer ? This is the fender I bought with forks . Thanks Charlie

Buglet

   Looks like that axle is off a Fatboy you need one off a Wideglide.

capn

You got it right 76fx.Space the wheel over then get a spacer for the rotor.Yes aluminum is fine for spacers.

Buglet

   Spacer is OK, but if you want a cleaner job and less parts shift the rim over. What size spacer do you have on the left. Should be a around 3/4 to 1"

Burnout

I think softail trees are 1/4" narrower than FLH trees.
So if you put a softail wheel in FLH trees it will need to be spaced and a ~1/8" rotor spacer is needed.


I do not recommend messing with caliper mounting, spacing the wheel and rotor are fine.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Buglet

   The Fatboys are narrower the Wide glide are the same width right on up as the FL's 

rigidthumper

Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Buglet

   That the way to do it loosen spokes on one side tighten spokes on other side can't get any simpler then that.

kd

Quote from: hd76fxlr on March 15, 2021, 12:29:37 PM
Put 2002 forks and wheel in 1960 trees. Wheel doesn't center in forks ! Thoughts ?
[attach=0,msg1380826] 
[attach=1,msg1380826]

Are you sure those are 1960 trees.  :scratch: They appear to have a negative rake in your pics.  I don't remember the early trees being raked at all unless they were adjustable positive rake for sidecar use.
KD

Burnout

March 17, 2021, 08:50:39 AM #23 Last Edit: March 17, 2021, 10:31:13 AM by Burnout
Good catch KD!

The side view is the giveaway. the fork angle is less then the neck angle
That angle is not dangling in a desirable direction, not likely going to turn out well.     :doh:

Those appear to be late model rubber mount bagger reversed trees installed backwards! Which would explain the width.
To use them you will need to goose neck your frame so they don't hit stuff (after spinning them around so the "rake" is pointed the right way).

The FXWD trees had a touch of rake added and are narrower than those trees.
Take a tape measure to the next gathering to compare.....
Side car trees are Knuck or Pan vintage and not what he has (I have a pair of those on my trike).

I'ma get you some numbers.
Meanwhile what is the center to center width of the forks in your trees pictured?
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Buglet

    The light refection on the neck is giving you the false look. I have a stock 67 here that looks the same. The adjustable trees would send the rake the other way. Plus it would have different fork caps.

billbuilds

     I dunno, man. I have to agree with KD's keen eye.
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

hd76fxlr

I got a new lower tree coming Monday ; I'll start over.

Burnout

You can't change just one tree, the upper and lower MUST be matched (the same angle and width).

You have to be very careful with this when messing with the 9 7/8" width trees as they are hard to tell the difference.
There is a raised feature around the stem nut on the top tree, and you can see which angle it is cut to.

Best to use matching trees rather than pulling half sets out of the junk pile.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

kd

 :agree:  You will at least be able to compare the lower tree measurements to decide how you want to proceed.
KD

Buglet

    What's the story, beware of Chinese trees.

JW113

Ain't that the truth. The fork clamps on my '77 were bent, when I'd try to insert a tube up through the lower, it would not line up with the hole in upper. I know we're not suppose to bash vendors, so let's just say I bought a set of aftermarket clamps from a somewhat respected supplier. When they arrived, they were not made by who I thought, and of course said "Made In Taiwan". Surprise, surprise, they did not line up with the tubes either! So I sent my stock clamps down to a frame shop in SoCal who straightened them. Put back on, tubes now slide in with Swiss precision.

Lesson learned. AGAIN!!

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Buglet

   I use to straighten tubes and trees years ago, its not that hard if you how the right equipment.

Burnout

I know there are two different rake angles for stock trees (maybe 3).
If you mismatch the upper and lower trees you will have problems.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

JW113

Quote from: Buglet on March 24, 2021, 08:59:43 AM
   I use to straighten tubes and trees years ago, its not that hard if you how the right equipment.

But I did use the right equipment. A credit card and a shipping box.
:SM:

If I was going to straighten forks and trees on a production basis, yes maybe worth investing in a set of tools to do so. For a one time event? Naw....

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

kd

Straightening "tubing" is a tough go.  The outside of a bend is actually stretched metal and pretty well impossible to recompress.  Working out minor bends involves stretching the opposite side to gat it to hold straight.  Now you have a weakened structure because stretching pulls the metal strands apart from the supporting density.   I have straightened tubes before but they contain a memory and want to return there.  I think I would buy new ones too.  Do the job once.
KD

JW113

Agree 100%. Bent tubes = junk, unless they are some exotic unobtaining part. Slip of the keyboard on my part.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Buglet

   I did a set of tubes a tree over 40 years ago that is still being driven today with no problems. Back then Harley told you they can be straighten and the Insurance company pay you to do it. Lawyers put people doing the right job put an end to it. Today its different as you will never get to answers the same, it don't matter what you ask. Just go the two different Doctors see what they say. I have a costumer now that's going though that, he was supposed to to be gone eleven years ago. He still rides a 950 lbs, 66000 miles the last two years. they told him he was done 5 months ago, Will he just pick up is bike 3 weeks ago and he's out riding. Now should he ride or not. Like they say you can't believe ever thing on the net so what do you believe. Now back to the front end can someone explain to me what the trees have to do with getting the rim and brake rotor line up.

kd

KD

Buglet

   If he wants to use the stock FLH nacelle, then he only has one choice unless he wants to fiddle with that.

Burnout

Tree width determines the front wheel hub width and brake rotor separation/offset.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Buglet

   As far as I know Harley only made two widths one for the FL's and Wideglides and one for the Fatboys and Heritages now if tries both of them a neither one line the wheel up now what to you do.

friday

But I did use the right equipment. A credit card and a shipping box.
:SM:

^^ this fixes anything, even if it has to be done twice

hbkeith

Buy a complete frontend , do it right once