2002 forks in 1960 trees

[billbuilds]

     I dunno, man. I have to agree with KD's keen eye.

[hd76fxlr]

I got a new lower tree coming Monday ; I'll start over.

[Burnout]

You can't change just one tree, the upper and lower MUST be matched (the same angle and width).

You have to be very careful with this when messing with the 9 7/8" width trees as they are hard to tell the difference.
There is a raised feature around the stem nut on the top tree, and you can see which angle it is cut to.

Best to use matching trees rather than pulling half sets out of the junk pile.

[kd]

   You will at least be able to compare the lower tree measurements to decide how you want to proceed.

[Buglet]

    What's the story, beware of Chinese trees.

[JW113]

Ain't that the truth. The fork clamps on my '77 were bent, when I'd try to insert a tube up through the lower, it would not line up with the hole in upper. I know we're not suppose to bash vendors, so let's just say I bought a set of aftermarket clamps from a somewhat respected supplier. When they arrived, they were not made by who I thought, and of course said "Made In Taiwan". Surprise, surprise, they did not line up with the tubes either! So I sent my stock clamps down to a frame shop in SoCal who straightened them. Put back on, tubes now slide in with Swiss precision.

Lesson learned. AGAIN!!

-JW

[Buglet]

   I use to straighten tubes and trees years ago, its not that hard if you how the right equipment.

[Burnout]

I know there are two different rake angles for stock trees (maybe 3).
If you mismatch the upper and lower trees you will have problems.

[JW113]

   I use to straighten tubes and trees years ago, its not that hard if you how the right equipment.

But I did use the right equipment. A credit card and a shipping box.


If I was going to straighten forks and trees on a production basis, yes maybe worth investing in a set of tools to do so. For a one time event? Naw....

-JW

[kd]

Straightening "tubing" is a tough go.  The outside of a bend is actually stretched metal and pretty well impossible to recompress.  Working out minor bends involves stretching the opposite side to gat it to hold straight.  Now you have a weakened structure because stretching pulls the metal strands apart from the supporting density.   I have straightened tubes before but they contain a memory and want to return there.  I think I would buy new ones too.  Do the job once.

[JW113]

Agree 100%. Bent tubes = junk, unless they are some exotic unobtaining part. Slip of the keyboard on my part.

-JW

[Buglet]

   I did a set of tubes a tree over 40 years ago that is still being driven today with no problems. Back then Harley told you they can be straighten and the Insurance company pay you to do it. Lawyers put people doing the right job put an end to it. Today its different as you will never get to answers the same, it don't matter what you ask. Just go the two different Doctors see what they say. I have a costumer now that's going though that, he was supposed to to be gone eleven years ago. He still rides a 950 lbs, 66000 miles the last two years. they told him he was done 5 months ago, Will he just pick up is bike 3 weeks ago and he's out riding. Now should he ride or not. Like they say you can't believe ever thing on the net so what do you believe. Now back to the front end can someone explain to me what the trees have to do with getting the rim and brake rotor line up.

[kd]

The width.

[Buglet]

   If he wants to use the stock FLH nacelle, then he only has one choice unless he wants to fiddle with that.

[Burnout]

Tree width determines the front wheel hub width and brake rotor separation/offset.

[Buglet]

   As far as I know Harley only made two widths one for the FL's and Wideglides and one for the Fatboys and Heritages now if tries both of them a neither one line the wheel up now what to you do.

[friday]

But I did use the right equipment. A credit card and a shipping box.


^^ this fixes anything, even if it has to be done twice

[hbkeith]

Buy a complete frontend , do it right once