over torqued cam plate bolt

[chas]

Hi All- Yeah i did it over torqued a cam plate bolt! I set the wrench to 100 in lbs, and the thing just spun. Should I go with a shorter bolt with red loctite? I haven't dealt with this issue before, and not sure how to proceed. Any and all info much appreciated. Many thanks in advance.- Chas

[Ohio HD]

Heli-coil.

[Coyote]

Put a stud in. The hole will still have threads and you can red loctite it in. Then a nut to hold the plate. Been discussed here many times. I used to have several boxes of them. I'll take a look and could probably send you one.

I'm guessing it was one of the dowel holes?

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[kd]

   on both counts.  Don't forget to clean the hole out good before installing the stud.  I have found die crud in them and you want that stud to go to the bottom. I have run a medium and a bottoming tap in carefully to get the thread count up to max available length of thread in the whole.  Keep the chips out as you work the threads. If it was the hole with the dowel, consider doing both dowelled holes with studs and ARP 12 point flange nuts. I put them in my 120 when I built it just because it's better than the OEM bolt.

FWIW I turned my dealer buddy on to this fix. He had one in the shop he was sweating over.  I gave him the studs and ARP flange nuts and he saved himself a big hassle. The tech that stripped it was grateful too.

[Wookie3011]

https://youtu.be/9rtiFBC0wms
If you do decide to Heli Coil, being aware of all the metal shavings and removal of would be my top priority. If it where me I would Helix coil but I'm a machinist. Do what you feel your skill level can accomplish. Good luck.

[kd]

https://youtu.be/9rtiFBC0wms

Wookie, the procedure (if in the dowelled holes) that Coyote brought in to the conversation is actually WAY easier than a heli coil and will have more available threads remaining to hold the Loctited stud. It has to be done on the engine case while in place by hand. If you are not familiar with it there are a few threads that should show up on a search here.

Here is one and it gives some further search instructions if you need them.

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

Tap them to the next # Bit and use a 9/32x20x1/2 "Blid Hole Tap, unless you've totally fubarred the hole. or, use Time Sert. Heli-Coil is "Okay". Time Sert is a more permanet repair.

[smoserx1]

Take my advice, which is take Coyote's advise and do the stud thing.  They are going in my bike if and when I need to revisit  the cam area.  Nuts are ARP 300-8320 1/4 - 28.  The coarse part of the stud thread should be  1/4 - 20 with about a 1/2 inch coarse thread length and about a 3/4 inch fine thread length and 1.5 inch overall stud length.  What if you try to use a helicoil or timesert or drill and tap for a bigger bolt & mess up???  Try the easy solution first.

[chas]

Thanks for all the advise but the stud seems to be a safe bet!

[Coyote]

I'll send you a stud and nut if you pm me your address.

[les]

These are the kits I have in my garage.  Of course, the one on the left (1208-104) is what I use to repair stripped cam plate holes.  You can use the dowel as a guide to drill straight with a 17/64" drill, that you'll need to supply.  Then you remove the dowel, use the tap in the kit, and use the coil insert tool in the kit to install the coil.  As mentioned, I top it off with the automotive studs (can get from True Value Hardware) and the 12-point nuts that I get from Summit Racing.

I recommend that any time you open up a cam chest you install the studs and nuts, if not already done so.  This prevents future stripping and the situation of having to install a coil.  I use red loctite and snug the studs then blue on the nuts.

[Coyote]

There's really no need to drill and re-thread anything. There is plenty of thread at the bottom of the hole. Just clean it out good, use some red loctite and install the stud (shown in my pic above). Let it sit overnight and install the cam plate with the nut. I learned it from forum members here and it's been done many times without issue.

[kd]

   IMO Absolutely the way to go. Wayyy cheaper, easier and quicker too.  I save the heli coil type fix for when there is no other options.

[les]

These are the kits I have in my garage.  Of course, the one on the left (1208-104) is what I use to repair stripped cam plate holes.  You can use the dowel as a guide to drill straight with a 17/64" drill, that you'll need to supply.  Then you remove the dowel, use the tap in the kit, and use the coil insert tool in the kit to install the coil.  As mentioned, I top it off with the automotive studs (can get from True Value Hardware) and the 12-point nuts that I get from Summit Racing.

I recommend that any time you open up a cam chest you install the studs and nuts, if not already done so.  This prevents future stripping and the situation of having to install a coil.  I use red loctite and snug the studs then blue on the nuts.

Forgot to mention a couple of things...

I thread in a long 1/4"x20 bolt when I remove the dowel.  I carefully use a pair of vice grips, working it back and forth until it comes out.  The bolt helps from crushing the dowel too much.  Then after the coil insert, I of course put a new dowel in.  Makes for a sturdy fix no matter how many times you go into the cam chest.  Good luck!

[FXDBI]

There's really no need to drill and re-thread anything. There is plenty of thread at the bottom of the hole. Just clean it out good, use some red loctite and install the stud (shown in my pic above). Let it sit overnight and install the cam plate with the nut. I learned it from forum members here and it's been done many times without issue.

  KISS principle no reason to overthink or over do this simple fix,  drilling and heli-coil or time sert is a last resort in any thread repair function.  Opens the door to new problems.   Bob