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88 flstc sluggish and backfiring

Started by hogget, April 02, 2021, 01:03:41 AM

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FSG

Quote from: Scotty on April 07, 2021, 11:59:44 PM
Looks like something melted in the pickup in the top left corner.

you can see it running down the wire


Hossamania

How was the voes checked? What was the pressure number? Vacuum lines in good shape? Vacuum T not hard and cracked?
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

rigidthumper

That pickup is toast. Replace it before continuing to troubleshoot. It may not be the only issue, but it certainly is an issue.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Burnout

April 08, 2021, 07:46:36 AM #28 Last Edit: April 08, 2021, 09:19:30 AM by Burnout
Yes, the bedding compound is melting out of it. = junk

I've never seen one (that looked like that), that wasn't bad.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Scotty

Quote from: FSG on April 08, 2021, 01:03:50 AM
you can see it running down the wire

You have better eyesight than I have mate I only seen that when you pointed it out and I looked hard at the photo yesterday  :banghead:

hogget

ok, pickup on order, voes checked as per manual, using the human mitivac - was surprised to learn that at low vacuum, ie, accelerating, ignition retards - vacuum line replaced

JW113

Yep, it sure does. To help avert detonation (pinging) under load.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Hossamania

The voes can be tuned also. The bigger cruisers operate at a different value than the lighter bikes.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

FSG

QuoteYou have better eyesight than I have mate

well I had to get some benefit from the double cataract surgery I had in June '19 , near sight in the left, far sight in the right, I can see clearly now   :scoot:

hogget

ok, have the new pickup and went install it - then trying to disconnect the old one, i traced the wiring to the ecu thats under the oil tank - where the wires go into the ecu it looks like theres some shiny stuff around the wiring entry (sorry cant get a pic of that) - i'm thinking that whatever problem fried the pickup may also have damaged the ecu :emoGroan:
i see in the manual how to test the pickup and ecu, but it doesn't say how to remove the oil tank to get to the ecu - i see some rubber mounts front and rear, but not sure if the tank will come out easily - any ideas/hacks for getting to the ecu? - or is it just pull everything off?
really appreciate the help i'm getting here
rory

Scotty

The ignition module is either behind the splash guard in front of the rear wheel or under the seat but been a while and not sure if I am confusing the later 90 models.
Don't have to take the oil tank out.

hogget

ok, had a look today - my ecu is under the oil tank
can see that removing the plastic mudguard would make it easier to get at, but theres bugger all room between the starter/trans case and the ecu - i'm guessing i need to remove rear wheel to get at the guard and make it easier to get to the ecu
just trying to minimise the heavy lifting i need to do as i'm recovering from broken ribs
thanks again
rory

hogget

bit the bullet today, removed rear wheel and plastic fender - no way was i getting the ecu out without at least removing all the oil tank mountings (not so easy either) - couldn't get a socket onto the ecu mounting nuts because of the lack of clearance
i slid the oil tank to the right side of the bike without pulling the oil lines off and that enabled me to undo the ecu nuts and almost slide it out the rh side - but  need to follow and unplug the voes wire to completely remove it - i'm sure if hd had thought about it they could have made the ecu even harder to remove - thanks god they didn't
can see that there is melted plastic where the wires go into the ecu and it failed 2 out of the 4 continuity/resistance tests in the manual (as did the pickup/sensor) so i'm guessing that it needs replacement as well
i will be mounting the new ecu either onto the plastic guard or under the seat so that i never have to go through that bs again
thanks again for all the advice - will update when i get the new ecu and pickup fitted
rory

hogget

here's some pics of the ecu - guessing it shouldn't look like that
the next problem is getting the pickup out of the nose - the connector on the end of the wire is too big to fit thru the hole in the nose - manual says to remove the pins from the connector and pull the wires thru one at a time, but not sure how that could happen without cutting it up - or is there a better way?

Scotty

Wire ends pop out of the connector and then all 3 wires pull through hole together not individually.
I don't bother with those connectors anymore I just cut them off and replace with a deutsch connector.

hogget

thanks scotty - will give that a go
called frasers, ecu is $450 and a month away - have ordered an ultima ignition for 250 - it replaces the pickup and the ecu
will see if i can return the new pickup
will probably be a while before i can update this
thanks again for all the help
rory

hogget

 :teeth: :teeth: :teeth:success!!!!!
fitted the ultima ignition and took the bike for  a ride today - runs perfect
not before i thought i had more problems when after starting and idling when i put my helmet on, it stalled and would not restart - that happens when you forget to turn the fuel on
the ultima was super easy to set up using the instructions - in my case all the 6 switches set to 'off'
looking forward to riding rather than wrenching after problems with the ignition on one of my other bikes - turned out to be plugs
many thanks to scotty and others for all your help - its invaluable. i'm sure it would have taken me a long time and much frustration to discover the source of the problem
rory

hogget

thought i'd better check timing with a light and have read about the options of checking through the crankcase hole as well as thru the primary inspection hole - took out the crank plug to mark the rotor and forgot to refit it
didnt think much oil had come out until i realised there was oil spots all over the bench next to the bike and over my manual
long story short - the static timing was spot on - didn't need to change it at all

kd

You can buy a clear see thru plug that you install to check the timing with the engine running.  :wink:
KD

hogget

thanks kd, what i'd read about them was that it was hard to see the marks thru the clear plug with all the oil splashing around, so thats why i went the primary cover route. as it turned out, when i tried to paint marks on the rotor and inner primary, the paint just ran because of oil - i then pointed the gun thru the crank hole and could see the mark clearly. lots of stuff on the left side of the bike now have a nice oil mist

jsachs1

FWIW, there's a piece on the market, EZ TIME, that bolts on to 2 inner primary bolts, that is degreed/has numbers. You mark the alt. rotor at TDC. line up the zero on the EZ time, fire up the engine, and set your timing with your timing light.
John

hogget

thanks John, i have read about them, but wanted a quick fix. first time in 33 years i've had to check the timing - i think i'll hold off buying the ez time for another 33 years
rory

FSG


98fxstc

June 15, 2021, 04:42:34 PM #48 Last Edit: June 15, 2021, 04:46:35 PM by 98fxstc
Have not seen those before, will be be getting one next time I have to check my timing.
I have tried the clear plastic plug and a paint mark on the flywheel and had my face and everything else covered in oil.

hogget

even with the ez time, i think you'll need to drain the primary or you'll still get oil everywhere