That 'Tick At 2800" Noise....

[Propflux01]

I am curious as to what the consensus is of the 'Harley Tick' that many (esp. me) complain about when riding. Everyone says "its normal, its a Harley' or some other excuse, but my question is, what actually causes the noise? I know, of course, about the rocker lockers, and that associated cause, and have seen many bikes fixed using these, but, like mine, sometimes it doesn't fix it. So what exactly IS that noise? Is it a valve slamming a seat that hard? is it the lifter very minutely leaving the camshaft and then coming back down on it from an aggressive ramp? Is it some kind of 'natural harmonic'? Surely, there are many engines that don't make this sound, so on those engines, those aforementioned issues are not happening. This leads me to believe there is a cause that can prevent this from occurring. What are others thoughts on this?

[Don D]

Not all big twins do this. If they do it is valve train lash or piston slap. Hotter worse, most likely valve train, worse cold most likely piston slap.
To fix it goes the gammut but there are fixes and the specifics of the build need to be examined.
The fix is not lifter preload usually or rocker shaft shims.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The fix is not lifter preload usually or rocker shaft shims.

If you mean rocker arm end shims I would 100% agree. If you mean inserts to keep rocker shafts from rotating.... thousands of bikes have been cured by them, more every day 

[Don D]

I use rocker lockers and those are one of many fixes that work, if the shafts are clacking.

[Propflux01]

I just cannot help wondering why some do it, and some don't. even ones equipped with lockers. Mine in point. Ive got lockers in all 4 holes and still clacks loudly, moreso when hot. Wife as a 2015 Switchback that is quiet. Mine you can hear bringing RPM up in the garage. Hers, quiet other than the normal sound of mechanical parts moving. Gotta be some kinda clearance, or part that causes this.

[tdrglide]

Some cam ramp designs are more forgiving of a standard valve spring pressure/geometry.

I did a little cam noise comparison using off the shelf S&S heads a few years ago. Using woods 9b cams. Idle was very quiet but started to click around 2200 peaking around 2800. Pretty quiet by 3200 rpms.
Swapped out to S&S 625's.
Quiet at all rpms. Swapped out again for DME598's. Again, very quiet. I even tried some 1.7 roller rockers with the 598's. Again, quiet.

Woods made the best power. 
So why the 2800 peak noise  .
Maybe above that rpm the frequency was too high for me to hear?  Or

[kd]

Have you confirmed that you have no exhaust leaks or heat shields close enough to make contact or rattle when the harmonics are just right.  That is a common thing that sounds like valve train noise and gets blamed lots.  A smoke test with a cigarette or the like around the exhaust ports when hot or cold and a small rubber mallet to tap around any attached parts like the heat shields can be helpful.

[Propflux01]

I've done everything I can think of. Took shields completely off, changed headpipe to a fuel moto, different gas, different oil, borescope inside engine to make sure nothing inside was coming apart. etc.

[Trouble]

My 2004 RK has done this since day one. In reading the Owner's Manual under ignition, I found insight into this condition which says in part,' in certain transient load conditions (as the throttle is opened) the timing changes from normal to fully advanced. At this point, the operator can sometimes hear a noise that is similar to pre-ignition detonation. This noise should not be confused with detonation, ... it is caused by the instant pressure rise in the  combustion chambers as the spark advances rapidly. This noise doesn't affect engine performance.' 2800RPMs sounds about right. I've got over 100,000 miles and it still does it and it still runs like new.

[Don D]

I've done everything I can think of. Took shields completely off, changed headpipe to a fuel moto, different gas, different oil, borescope inside engine to make sure nothing inside was coming apart. etc.

There is lash in the valve train. Plain and simple. Need to know more ti give an opinion and maybe help.
What lifters, What pushrods? Which cams? What valve springs and valves?

[smoserx1]

Is it some kind of 'natural harmonic'?

That would be my guess.  I can remember thinking to myself riding my 99 home the first time 22 years ago how much valve train noise it had.  221000 miles later it is still there after 3  different cams and 4 sets of lifters and an 88 to 95 inch top end.  The cams did shift the resonance point some (stock it was about 2500, 21N cams about 2900, SE 203s somewhere in the middle, but it is still there, loud as ever (or probably louder as my hearing is about shot). 

[Deye76]

"I've done everything I can think of."
Nobody I know that runs a Thunderheader experiences a tick anywhere in the RPM range. 

[fbn ent]

 .......

[Propflux01]

There is lash in the valve train. Plain and simple. Need to know more ti give an opinion and maybe help.
What lifters, What pushrods? Which cams? What valve springs and valves?

Ok, 96" to factory take off 103". Andrews 48h. Smith brothers .010 over pushrods. S&S premium lifters stock 103 heads, gasket, valves and springs. SE oil pump. Stock hyd plate.

[Hossamania]

There is lash in the valve train. Plain and simple. Need to know more ti give an opinion and maybe help.
What lifters, What pushrods? Which cams? What valve springs and valves?

Ok, 96" to factory take off 103". Andrews 48h. Smith brothers .010 over pushrods. S&S premium lifters stock 103 heads, gasket, valves and springs. SE oil pump. Stock hyd plate.

Was the noise there before the changeover?

[Propflux01]

Honestly, I do not remember. When I bought it, it had these swept out loud ass drag pipes on it. I reinstalled the stock header he gave me and some old rineharts. I did this at the same time the 103 and cam change came because the exhaust was off. It's ticked since day one after that. Just that little rpm range. Best way I could describe it would be if you could imagine the lifter goes past the top of the ramp and then slightly gets "airborne ", then comes down (taps) on the cam. Looking at the cam during my various checks shows no such indication of that. The ramps are nice and smooth and he lifters spear to have no play in the roller.

[Adam76]

Not all big twins do this. If they do it is valve train lash or piston slap. Hotter worse, most likely valve train, worse cold most likely piston slap.
To fix it goes the gammut but there are fixes and the specifics of the build need to be examined.
The fix is not lifter preload usually or rocker shaft shims.

Hi Don, just wanting to learn here - why do you say that's it's usually not lifter preload?
I think the OP has fixed length PRs, (0.010" over) so how do we know the lifters are preloaded at the right depth?
Thanks.

[Don D]

Question back do we care, if the lifters remain seated and preloaded during operation? Things can prevent them from remaining seated. Many of those can be self inflicted issues.

[Adam76]

Question back do we care, if the lifters remain seated and preloaded during operation? Things can prevent them from remaining seated. Many of those can be self inflicted issues.

Ok,  gotcha.
Thanks 👍

[Propflux01]

Question back do we care, if the lifters remain seated and preloaded during operation? Things can prevent them from remaining seated. Many of those can be self inflicted issues.

Can you elaborate more on this?

[Hossamania]

Have you checked for witness marks in the pushrod tubes?
Hattitude mentioned measuring and clearencing  the lower rocker boxes in his pushrod thread.

[Propflux01]

Have you checked for witness marks in the pushrod tubes?
Hattitude mentioned measuring and clearencing  the lower rocker boxes in his pushrod thread.

Yes, I've had it apart twice now. I honestly expected to find my issue there, but nothing, not on the tubes, or on the rods.

[hattitude]

Have you checked for witness marks in the pushrod tubes?
Hattitude mentioned measuring and clearencing  the lower rocker boxes in his pushrod thread.

Yes, I've had it apart twice now. I honestly expected to find my issue there, but nothing, not on the tubes, or on the rods.

I have mine apart for the 5th time....

For the record, the bike runs great... except for that tick.


I've changed pushrods 4X-  OEM, then Smith Bros solids (measured to be about +.020"), then SE Tapered +.030" solids, then S&S quickie adjustable

I've changed lifters 4X-  HD "B" lifters (w/20K miles), S&S Premiums, Johnson Hylift from WFO Larry (two types)

I've checked lifters and pushrods for debris, restrictions to the oil flow... all good

I've done the rocker arm plate mod oil return mod

I have added, and then removed Rockout inserts

I have changed the rocker bases to SE forged, and the rocker arms to S&S Forged (OEM size) and all measure well within spec... (not needed, just for the hell of it)

I have looked at the pushrod tubes, and pushrods with a magnifying glass and have been unable to find any witness marks. I have wanted to just drill out the tube tops, for the hell of it, but don't have access to a lathe

I've even had the cam plate out to check my work (cams, bearings, o-rings), and when it went back together, I put in an S&S TC3 plate/pump, just for the hell of it..

Through all this, that tick remains... Many of these items I did for the hell (read "fun") of it, because working on my bikes is my hobby... but the tick is really annoying me...!!

Since all that...

My dyno tune guy said he didn't notice anything out of the ordinary...

My new brother-in-law is a retired manager of a large HD Dealer, Service Dept. He has heard the noise, thinks it in the front rocker box, but thinks it's minor. He told me to look for a small, faint witness mark.. if any is there

Then I saw this video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh1YmpNukDA

The part that caught my eye was from 0:45 seconds through 6:20..

It shouldn't apply to me, because I have OEM springs... but I thought .. what the hell.. I've tried everything else.

I did his procedure to a "T"...

When I tried to measure, an intake on the rear cylinder and an exhaust on the front, did not have the clearance he suggests...

I saw what appeared to be a small witness mark, on the front lower rocker box, within the area I marked with a Sharpie, where the clearance was too tight..  I tried to take a pic, but it doesn't really show up.

I clearanced both lower rocker boxes this morning, but won't get the bike back together for a week or so due to family stuff..

I'm kind of hoping this may be my tick... Don't know how, or why... but we shall see.

I'll report back as to whether it was a fail or a success, but it will be a few weeks...

[fbn ent]

I looked for signs last time I had mine apart....didn't see any. 

[kd]

I had a similar problem in one of my evo's.  It came on as the engine warmed up. The witness mark was no more than what appeared to be a black smudge. but I gave it a light buff with a grinder and that took care of it.  I eventually changed it when it started to leak also.   I think it was changing shape with the heat.  There was no actual dent or abrasion.  It just looked like a small black smudge.

[Propflux01]

I am glad its not just me that cannot stand the ticking!! Its coming apart again soon, as I had already ordered a set of rocker supports (I do have alot of clearance that I took up with a .015 shim, and wanted to do it right and not have the shim fail)before I posted this thread, so since rocker boxes are gonna be that close, they are coming off for inspection as well.

[hattitude]

I am glad its not just me that cannot stand the ticking!! Its coming apart again soon, as I had already ordered a set of rocker supports (I do have alot of clearance that I took up with a .015 shim, and wanted to do it right and not have the shim fail)before I posted this thread, so since rocker boxes are gonna be that close, they are coming off for inspection as well.

Just FYI...

I measured my Rocker housings per the video directions by Kevin Baxter.

Again, this was suggested by Kevin Baxter, of Pro Twin Performance, in a video. He suggested it for engines with aftermarket valves, claiming they see a lot of witness marks in engines with aftermarket valves . They do this in their builds ....

My valves are OEM... I decided to try it, because I had tried everything else I could think of, to rid myself of the ticking noise... I  was surprised to find that after using his housing centering and clearance measuring tricks, three of my OEM valves had spots where the allen wrench would NOT fit between the valve and the housing. The fourth had a very tight spot. I did some grinding on all four .... I rechecked them several times during the grinding, and stopped when the allen wrench could slide between the valve and the housing without "binding"...

I won't have them together to check the results for a couple weeks (waiting on a couple parts & family obligations)

Here are a couple pics of my measuring and clearancing the rocker housings per the video I shared in my previous post.

I used a 1/16" (.062") allen wrench to measure with, that was the smallest I had....

The first pic is the front housing, exhaust valve.  I was unable to slide the allen wrench between the valve and the housing, in the space between the two red arrows...



The second pic is the front housing, intake valve.  I was unable to slide the allen wrench around between the valve and the housing, in the space between the two red arrows....



This 3rd pic is after finishing the front exhaust, but I needed to take a tad more off the intake at the left edge for the allen wrench to fit. The red arrow in the area by the exhaust valve, shows approximately where I "believe" I saw a witness mark prior to the grinding... it looked like a horizontal scratch. Very small... I couldn't get a good pic of it. Who knows, hopefully that was the cause of my tick... we shall see.




I did a similar job to the rear rocker housing. 

The tip in the video about centering the rocker housings with the oil pump alignment screws was a pretty good one. I was amazed at the amount of "play" there was in the rocker housing, even with all six mounting bolts loosely installed...

Time will tell if this worked, I will report back the results, when I get it put back together.

[motorhogman]

Watching that video make me want to take mine apart and see how the lower boxes are aligned. I replaced the gaskets a while ago and never really paid attention to how the boxes were centered. Always learn something from Kevin Baxter videos.

[98fxstc]

Watching that video make me want to take mine apart and see how the lower boxes are aligned. I replaced the gaskets a while ago and never really paid attention to how the boxes were centered. Always learn something from Kevin Baxter videos.

x2 

[kd]

It was good information for sure.  I haven't done that and interpret they free movement tolerance to be something you should take advantage of.  I use the fact there is some movement there as well as in the rocker stands (no lockers installed) to position everything to give the best pushrod clearance for the upper tubes and for valve stem rocker tip (in my case roller) to be centered at mid lift on the valve tip.   I find it is much like the oil pump.  You can use the studs to align the pump body but if you don't rotate the engine before locking it down you risk losing the pump.

[Scotty]

Used to have to do all that on the 99-06 bikes when using the then SE Performance Heads as they used to interfere with the stock lower rocker boxes.
Was common knowledge 20 years ago but people forget the small things sometimes.

[hattitude]

It was good information for sure.  I haven't done that and interpret they free movement tolerance to be something you should take advantage of.  I use the fact there is some movement there as well as in the rocker stands (no lockers installed) to position everything to give the best pushrod clearance for the upper tubes and for valve stem rocker tip (in my case roller) to be centered at mid lift on the valve tip.   I find it is much like the oil pump.  You can use the studs to align the pump body but if you don't rotate the engine before locking it down you risk losing the pump.

I intend to "slide" the rocker bases towards the pushrods to get the best clearance for the upper tubes....

Funny... I never thought to "slide" the rocker housings towards the primary side of the engine... I may try that when I put it together... that would move the rocker cases farther from the one side of the valves giving them better clearance, AND it would move the inner portion of the pushrod holes closer to the heads... which I'm guessing is the side the P/R may contact...  Of course, I'll recheck my valve clearances to make sure it doesn't "mess up" the front/rear clearance of the valves...

On an a side note:

I was recommended to a machine shop that works on auto racing engines...  I took him my upper pushrod tubes and asked him to run a 5/8" drill to open up the tops for 1.25" into the tubes...

He measured it with his calipers, scratched his head and said, "Are you sure? That won't leave much metal behind..."

I told him it was a procedure recommended to me, that has been done by several people... He said, "OK, I guess that will leave enough metal to seal the tops, I'll have to get them perfectly centered..." I said, "That's why I brought them to a machinist, and didn't try to do them on my drill press at home."   Truth is, I DID try on my drill press and ruined one...        I'm glad I had an extra.. 

I should get them back tomorrow

[hattitude]

Used to have to do all that on the 99-06 bikes when using the then SE Performance Heads as they used to interfere with the stock lower rocker boxes.
Was common knowledge 20 years ago but people forget the small things sometimes.

Good to know...

Since I only wrench on my bikes, I had never heard of that before....

[Propflux01]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

[kd]

I don't believe early heads before 06 and 110 were beehive.

[Propflux01]

I don't believe early heads before 06 and 110 were beehive.

Well, I knew the pre-06 were not, didn't know the 110 had straight springs.

[hattitude]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

Yes, The valves are OEM for 2003.

I bought the bike new in May 2003...  In October 2003, I had the HD 95" Big bore kit installed...

The kit came with pistons, cam, jugs, SE air cleaner, and HD Stage III download. I've since changed cams, and other stuff... but the heads/valves are OEM and have not been off the bike since the dealer did the big bore kit back in 10/2003..

[Propflux01]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

Yes, The valves are OEM for 2003.

I bought the bike new in May 2003...  In October 2003, I had the HD 95" Big bore kit installed...

The kit came with pistons, cam, jugs, SE air cleaner, and HD Stage III download. I've since changed cams, and other stuff... but the heads/valves are OEM and have not been off the bike since the dealer did the big bore kit back in 10/2003..

Ahhh, that makes way more sense to me now. I have the beehives on mine, so probably wont help mine much. Still gonna check, though. It's gotta be something...

[rigidthumper]

Beehives started in 2005, and the aftermarket sell beehives for 5/16" stem valves, which will provide more clearance.

[roadkingdresser]

Have a 10 r-king with stage 4 kit. Been chasing that ticking noise for a couple yrs. Finally took the front rocker box off and found the intake keeper was hitting. Noise went away. Beehive springs. Wish i would of seen this thread yrs. ago, would have saved me a lot of aggravation and money.

[Propflux01]

The keeper?
What was it hitting?

[kd]

I think he meant the valve spring retainer that the keepers are in.   

[roadkingdresser]

Sorry I meant the retainer.

[Propflux01]

What was it hitting on?

[Don D]

The later lower rocker boxes, not sure the year they changed, have added clearance there. Years ago when I was doing a lot of top end jobs I would use a match book to shim there during assembly.

[roadkingdresser]

Mine was hitting the lower rocker box and only the intake, but while i had it off i cut for the exhaust too. Not sure if it may of been the spring making contact.

[Don D]

Hint, the boxes are not dowled and there is considerable movement allowed for correction.

[Propflux01]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

[kd]

Well now you know how you can correct it if you find it's too tight to a retainer.  You can take it apart and grind it or remove the lining studs and reposition the rocker box.  Watch your pushrod clearance too. You can adjust for that too.

[Ohio HD]

I clay the rocker lids and place them without the middle gasket. If you get enough clearance without the gasket, it'll clear with the gasket. Other wise grind material away where needed.

I check over the valve springs, and at both pivotal sides of the rocker arms.

Also check the lower rocker box for clearance at the valve springs.

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[kd]

 

[FXDBI]

The differences in a engine / machine builder and a parts changer are vast. Most want the cheaper parts changer its flat rate and fixed price.   Bob

[Don D]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

Not the fix. The boxes need to be moved to be sure the retainers have clearance between the retainer and the lower box. If the heads have been milled much there there are potential issues with pushrods hitting in the upper tubes. I always bore the upper tubes top to 1" down 5/8"D

[kd]

   Boring the pushrod holes is a good idea too.   

[98fxstc]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

I agree this is the best way to go.
It is the most certain way to ensure that the lower rocker boxes are locked down in the same place each time with clearancing for valve springs as required.
I don't see a down side to drilling pushrod tubes.

[Don D]

I wouldn't. Most of the time just pushing the lower box all the way toward the horn side is the best solution. Not centered.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Some folks who like things centered use Rockouts to center the box, then remove them & install in the rocker supports as usual.

I made some special short bushings at one time for a forum member that installs them in the rocker box holes & leaves them in.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Load the lifter to .140", and use the proper oil viscosity, for the ambient air temps called out in the HD service manual.
You may be VERY SURPRISED.

[Don D]

I use the rocker lockers in about everything. Today I go some "Made in China" from a customer
So to clarify:
Lower box full push toward the horn.
Rocker support centered, which happens automatically when rocker lockers are used.
And about .140, well if you adjust the lifters I sell there the bike will not even start.
Lifters have .140" travel.

[Propflux01]

Not the fix. The boxes need to be moved to be sure the retainers have clearance between the retainer and the lower box. If the heads have been milled much there there are potential issues with pushrods hitting in the upper tubes. I always bore the upper tubes top to 1" down 5/8"D

Even with the beehive springs? 

[Don D]

Yes, the SE pushrods despite being tapered will hit in some cases. So do both and be safe. Only thing the beehive did was eliminate the potential for interference with the retainer and the lower box. What I am speaking about  is relevant and the low hanging fruit as opposed to the makes me feel good but doesn't do anything items. This includes a whole plethora of aftermarket "better" parts.

[Propflux01]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue. I had purchased the HD forged rocker supports in an effort to help with this issue. Since I had purchased them before I started this thread (this tick has been an ongoing thing for some time), I figured, might as well replace them. I removed the rockers and the rocker lockers. swapped all the stuff from the old to the new supports. Things I noticed: Took pushrods out and borescoped down the tubes to check for rubbing. Found nothing. Smith Bros rods themselves have no marking whatsoever on them, either. Had to tap the shafts out of the old rockers, but they seemed to slide in the new ones rather easily. Same with the rocker lockers. They only required finger pressure to install. Axial play was .006 and .007 on the new. The older ones had shims installed the last time I had it apart. I put in the alignment tools on the boxes just to see if anything changed. I am thinking I must have done this went i went to 103, as when I loosened the lower rocker boxes, nothing changed at all. the pins wouldn't go down any further. Torqued those back down. drilled the breather holes open, installed the rocker arm/supports, and went through the engine a few revolutions and checked pushrod tube clearance. Just for the heck of it, i did the upper rocker box clearance as shown in the photo.
  I cranked her up and it sounded like normal. Brought RPM's to 2600 to 3000 and noticed the tapping was almost non-existent. I could actually hear the lower valvetrain. I ran it like that with  a fan on it for about 20 minutes. Cooled down, put the seat back on it. Took it out for a ride. When I rode before, all I heard was that damn tapping in the front, exhaust in the back. Now all I hear is the normal "sewing machine" noise that I hear on most all Harleys, in the front, and the exhaust. I am quite satisfied. I am really not sure if the clearancing of the upper boxes did it, or the rocker supports, nor do I care. As long as its gone. which, so far, seems to be the case. Just for the record, I was really not impressed with equality of the rocker supports. Everything was a 'looser' fit hardware-wise, but the rocker arm axial movement was much better than my old set. I didn't like the idea of the shims, but I would probably just get the regular ones again if I were to do it again. To everyone that replied here, thank you. I learned alot this time around.

[motorhogman]

Fantastic !  My old TC makes different noises every ride.. LOL  My almost 70 year old hearing thinks so anyway.. Glad you made progress there.  I to learned from your thread.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

[Propflux01]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

If you ever have it apart again let me know & I'll send you the correct kit.

[Propflux01]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

If you ever have it apart again let me know & I'll send you the correct kit.

I'll still take them. Never know. I've gotten so fast at it that its not that big a deal to remove the rockers. anymore. I didn't know there was a difference, however.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

[hattitude]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

That was me... Thanks again..!

They fit much better in the forged rocker supports than the standard Rockout inserts did....

[hattitude]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue.

Awesome news..... Congrats...!



I believe I fixed mine too...

I got a chance to put it back together last night and just went for a test ride.. During the ride I thought I heard it a couple times at certain RPMs, but if it was there, it's making about 20% of the noise it did before. ...

Prior to this last tear down, I was sure people in the car next to me could hear the ticking sound... it was embarrassing!!  Now I can barely hear it, if it's actually still there...

My fix:

1)  I clearanced the lower rocker housing per Kevin Baxter's technique. When I reassembled, per HD Street Performance's suggestion, I cheated the rocker housings toward the horn side. FWIW.. I remeasured the clearance, and it was more on the side, but about the same in the front/rear as the clearanced measurements while the housing was centered.

2) I also took my dremel to the rocker covers above the valves and pushrods. I didn't measure as Ohio HD suggests as I didn't have any clay handy, but I didn't take too much off either. Since I suspect the sound may still be there, but greatly reduced, if I ever go into the rockers again, I'll have some clay and actually measure to see if there is a spot that may still be "touching" the covers.

3) I reused the prior used S&S P/R tubes, and S&S quickie pushrods, again adjusted to .041" as Hillside suggests. That didn't fix it last time, but I didn't want to make too many changes so I could have an idea of what may have worked.

Since I'm not embarrassed to ride the bike anymore... I'm calling it good... for now anyways...   

[Propflux01]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

PM Sent, Thanx!!

[Propflux01]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue.

Awesome news..... Congrats...!



I believe I fixed mine too...

I got a chance to put it back together last night and just went for a test ride.. During the ride I thought I heard it a couple times at certain RPMs, but if it was there, it's making about 20% of the noise it did before. ...

Prior to this last tear down, I was sure people in the car next to me could hear the ticking sound... it was embarrassing!!  Now I can barely hear it, if it's actually still there...

My fix:

1)  I clearanced the lower rocker housing per Kevin Baxter's technique. When I reassembled, per HD Street Performance's suggestion, I cheated the rocker housings toward the horn side. FWIW.. I remeasured the clearance, and it was more on the side, but about the same in the front/rear as the clearanced measurements while the housing was centered.

2) I also took my dremel to the rocker covers above the valves and pushrods. I didn't measure as Ohio HD suggests as I didn't have any clay handy, but I didn't take too much off either. Since I suspect the sound may still be there, but greatly reduced, if I ever go into the rockers again, I'll have some clay and actually measure to see if there is a spot that may still be "touching" the covers.

3) I reused the prior used S&S P/R tubes, and S&S quickie pushrods, again adjusted to .041" as Hillside suggests. That didn't fix it last time, but I didn't want to make too many changes so I could have an idea of what may have worked.

Since I'm not embarrassed to ride the bike anymore... I'm calling it good... for now anyways...   

Outstanding! Just proves there is an issue, and whether or not 'They all do that" they seemingly can be fixed, as well.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

PM Sent, Thanx!!

On the way, thanks for your support.