That 'Tick At 2800" Noise....

[Propflux01]

I am glad its not just me that cannot stand the ticking!! Its coming apart again soon, as I had already ordered a set of rocker supports (I do have alot of clearance that I took up with a .015 shim, and wanted to do it right and not have the shim fail)before I posted this thread, so since rocker boxes are gonna be that close, they are coming off for inspection as well.

[hattitude]

I am glad its not just me that cannot stand the ticking!! Its coming apart again soon, as I had already ordered a set of rocker supports (I do have alot of clearance that I took up with a .015 shim, and wanted to do it right and not have the shim fail)before I posted this thread, so since rocker boxes are gonna be that close, they are coming off for inspection as well.

Just FYI...

I measured my Rocker housings per the video directions by Kevin Baxter.

Again, this was suggested by Kevin Baxter, of Pro Twin Performance, in a video. He suggested it for engines with aftermarket valves, claiming they see a lot of witness marks in engines with aftermarket valves . They do this in their builds ....

My valves are OEM... I decided to try it, because I had tried everything else I could think of, to rid myself of the ticking noise... I  was surprised to find that after using his housing centering and clearance measuring tricks, three of my OEM valves had spots where the allen wrench would NOT fit between the valve and the housing. The fourth had a very tight spot. I did some grinding on all four .... I rechecked them several times during the grinding, and stopped when the allen wrench could slide between the valve and the housing without "binding"...

I won't have them together to check the results for a couple weeks (waiting on a couple parts & family obligations)

Here are a couple pics of my measuring and clearancing the rocker housings per the video I shared in my previous post.

I used a 1/16" (.062") allen wrench to measure with, that was the smallest I had....

The first pic is the front housing, exhaust valve.  I was unable to slide the allen wrench between the valve and the housing, in the space between the two red arrows...



The second pic is the front housing, intake valve.  I was unable to slide the allen wrench around between the valve and the housing, in the space between the two red arrows....



This 3rd pic is after finishing the front exhaust, but I needed to take a tad more off the intake at the left edge for the allen wrench to fit. The red arrow in the area by the exhaust valve, shows approximately where I "believe" I saw a witness mark prior to the grinding... it looked like a horizontal scratch. Very small... I couldn't get a good pic of it. Who knows, hopefully that was the cause of my tick... we shall see.




I did a similar job to the rear rocker housing. 

The tip in the video about centering the rocker housings with the oil pump alignment screws was a pretty good one. I was amazed at the amount of "play" there was in the rocker housing, even with all six mounting bolts loosely installed...

Time will tell if this worked, I will report back the results, when I get it put back together.

[motorhogman]

Watching that video make me want to take mine apart and see how the lower boxes are aligned. I replaced the gaskets a while ago and never really paid attention to how the boxes were centered. Always learn something from Kevin Baxter videos.

[98fxstc]

Watching that video make me want to take mine apart and see how the lower boxes are aligned. I replaced the gaskets a while ago and never really paid attention to how the boxes were centered. Always learn something from Kevin Baxter videos.

x2 

[kd]

It was good information for sure.  I haven't done that and interpret they free movement tolerance to be something you should take advantage of.  I use the fact there is some movement there as well as in the rocker stands (no lockers installed) to position everything to give the best pushrod clearance for the upper tubes and for valve stem rocker tip (in my case roller) to be centered at mid lift on the valve tip.   I find it is much like the oil pump.  You can use the studs to align the pump body but if you don't rotate the engine before locking it down you risk losing the pump.

[Scotty]

Used to have to do all that on the 99-06 bikes when using the then SE Performance Heads as they used to interfere with the stock lower rocker boxes.
Was common knowledge 20 years ago but people forget the small things sometimes.

[hattitude]

It was good information for sure.  I haven't done that and interpret they free movement tolerance to be something you should take advantage of.  I use the fact there is some movement there as well as in the rocker stands (no lockers installed) to position everything to give the best pushrod clearance for the upper tubes and for valve stem rocker tip (in my case roller) to be centered at mid lift on the valve tip.   I find it is much like the oil pump.  You can use the studs to align the pump body but if you don't rotate the engine before locking it down you risk losing the pump.

I intend to "slide" the rocker bases towards the pushrods to get the best clearance for the upper tubes....

Funny... I never thought to "slide" the rocker housings towards the primary side of the engine... I may try that when I put it together... that would move the rocker cases farther from the one side of the valves giving them better clearance, AND it would move the inner portion of the pushrod holes closer to the heads... which I'm guessing is the side the P/R may contact...  Of course, I'll recheck my valve clearances to make sure it doesn't "mess up" the front/rear clearance of the valves...

On an a side note:

I was recommended to a machine shop that works on auto racing engines...  I took him my upper pushrod tubes and asked him to run a 5/8" drill to open up the tops for 1.25" into the tubes...

He measured it with his calipers, scratched his head and said, "Are you sure? That won't leave much metal behind..."

I told him it was a procedure recommended to me, that has been done by several people... He said, "OK, I guess that will leave enough metal to seal the tops, I'll have to get them perfectly centered..." I said, "That's why I brought them to a machinist, and didn't try to do them on my drill press at home."   Truth is, I DID try on my drill press and ruined one...        I'm glad I had an extra.. 

I should get them back tomorrow

[hattitude]

Used to have to do all that on the 99-06 bikes when using the then SE Performance Heads as they used to interfere with the stock lower rocker boxes.
Was common knowledge 20 years ago but people forget the small things sometimes.

Good to know...

Since I only wrench on my bikes, I had never heard of that before....

[Propflux01]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

[kd]

I don't believe early heads before 06 and 110 were beehive.

[Propflux01]

I don't believe early heads before 06 and 110 were beehive.

Well, I knew the pre-06 were not, didn't know the 110 had straight springs.

[hattitude]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

Yes, The valves are OEM for 2003.

I bought the bike new in May 2003...  In October 2003, I had the HD 95" Big bore kit installed...

The kit came with pistons, cam, jugs, SE air cleaner, and HD Stage III download. I've since changed cams, and other stuff... but the heads/valves are OEM and have not been off the bike since the dealer did the big bore kit back in 10/2003..

[Propflux01]

Hattitude,
You state those are stock valves, but the springs are not the beehive that I am used to seeing, are the springs OEM as well?

Yes, The valves are OEM for 2003.

I bought the bike new in May 2003...  In October 2003, I had the HD 95" Big bore kit installed...

The kit came with pistons, cam, jugs, SE air cleaner, and HD Stage III download. I've since changed cams, and other stuff... but the heads/valves are OEM and have not been off the bike since the dealer did the big bore kit back in 10/2003..

Ahhh, that makes way more sense to me now. I have the beehives on mine, so probably wont help mine much. Still gonna check, though. It's gotta be something...

[rigidthumper]

Beehives started in 2005, and the aftermarket sell beehives for 5/16" stem valves, which will provide more clearance.

[roadkingdresser]

Have a 10 r-king with stage 4 kit. Been chasing that ticking noise for a couple yrs. Finally took the front rocker box off and found the intake keeper was hitting. Noise went away. Beehive springs. Wish i would of seen this thread yrs. ago, would have saved me a lot of aggravation and money.

[Propflux01]

The keeper?
What was it hitting?

[kd]

I think he meant the valve spring retainer that the keepers are in.   

[roadkingdresser]

Sorry I meant the retainer.

[Propflux01]

What was it hitting on?

[Don D]

The later lower rocker boxes, not sure the year they changed, have added clearance there. Years ago when I was doing a lot of top end jobs I would use a match book to shim there during assembly.

[roadkingdresser]

Mine was hitting the lower rocker box and only the intake, but while i had it off i cut for the exhaust too. Not sure if it may of been the spring making contact.

[Don D]

Hint, the boxes are not dowled and there is considerable movement allowed for correction.

[Propflux01]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

[kd]

Well now you know how you can correct it if you find it's too tight to a retainer.  You can take it apart and grind it or remove the lining studs and reposition the rocker box.  Watch your pushrod clearance too. You can adjust for that too.

[Ohio HD]

I clay the rocker lids and place them without the middle gasket. If you get enough clearance without the gasket, it'll clear with the gasket. Other wise grind material away where needed.

I check over the valve springs, and at both pivotal sides of the rocker arms.

Also check the lower rocker box for clearance at the valve springs.

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