That 'Tick At 2800" Noise....

[kd]

 

[FXDBI]

The differences in a engine / machine builder and a parts changer are vast. Most want the cheaper parts changer its flat rate and fixed price.   Bob

[Don D]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

Not the fix. The boxes need to be moved to be sure the retainers have clearance between the retainer and the lower box. If the heads have been milled much there there are potential issues with pushrods hitting in the upper tubes. I always bore the upper tubes top to 1" down 5/8"D

[kd]

   Boring the pushrod holes is a good idea too.   

[98fxstc]

I'll be using oil pump alignment tool to recenter mine when I replace my rocker supports.

I agree this is the best way to go.
It is the most certain way to ensure that the lower rocker boxes are locked down in the same place each time with clearancing for valve springs as required.
I don't see a down side to drilling pushrod tubes.

[Don D]

I wouldn't. Most of the time just pushing the lower box all the way toward the horn side is the best solution. Not centered.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Some folks who like things centered use Rockouts to center the box, then remove them & install in the rocker supports as usual.

I made some special short bushings at one time for a forum member that installs them in the rocker box holes & leaves them in.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Load the lifter to .140", and use the proper oil viscosity, for the ambient air temps called out in the HD service manual.
You may be VERY SURPRISED.

[Don D]

I use the rocker lockers in about everything. Today I go some "Made in China" from a customer
So to clarify:
Lower box full push toward the horn.
Rocker support centered, which happens automatically when rocker lockers are used.
And about .140, well if you adjust the lifters I sell there the bike will not even start.
Lifters have .140" travel.

[Propflux01]

Not the fix. The boxes need to be moved to be sure the retainers have clearance between the retainer and the lower box. If the heads have been milled much there there are potential issues with pushrods hitting in the upper tubes. I always bore the upper tubes top to 1" down 5/8"D

Even with the beehive springs? 

[Don D]

Yes, the SE pushrods despite being tapered will hit in some cases. So do both and be safe. Only thing the beehive did was eliminate the potential for interference with the retainer and the lower box. What I am speaking about  is relevant and the low hanging fruit as opposed to the makes me feel good but doesn't do anything items. This includes a whole plethora of aftermarket "better" parts.

[Propflux01]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue. I had purchased the HD forged rocker supports in an effort to help with this issue. Since I had purchased them before I started this thread (this tick has been an ongoing thing for some time), I figured, might as well replace them. I removed the rockers and the rocker lockers. swapped all the stuff from the old to the new supports. Things I noticed: Took pushrods out and borescoped down the tubes to check for rubbing. Found nothing. Smith Bros rods themselves have no marking whatsoever on them, either. Had to tap the shafts out of the old rockers, but they seemed to slide in the new ones rather easily. Same with the rocker lockers. They only required finger pressure to install. Axial play was .006 and .007 on the new. The older ones had shims installed the last time I had it apart. I put in the alignment tools on the boxes just to see if anything changed. I am thinking I must have done this went i went to 103, as when I loosened the lower rocker boxes, nothing changed at all. the pins wouldn't go down any further. Torqued those back down. drilled the breather holes open, installed the rocker arm/supports, and went through the engine a few revolutions and checked pushrod tube clearance. Just for the heck of it, i did the upper rocker box clearance as shown in the photo.
  I cranked her up and it sounded like normal. Brought RPM's to 2600 to 3000 and noticed the tapping was almost non-existent. I could actually hear the lower valvetrain. I ran it like that with  a fan on it for about 20 minutes. Cooled down, put the seat back on it. Took it out for a ride. When I rode before, all I heard was that damn tapping in the front, exhaust in the back. Now all I hear is the normal "sewing machine" noise that I hear on most all Harleys, in the front, and the exhaust. I am quite satisfied. I am really not sure if the clearancing of the upper boxes did it, or the rocker supports, nor do I care. As long as its gone. which, so far, seems to be the case. Just for the record, I was really not impressed with equality of the rocker supports. Everything was a 'looser' fit hardware-wise, but the rocker arm axial movement was much better than my old set. I didn't like the idea of the shims, but I would probably just get the regular ones again if I were to do it again. To everyone that replied here, thank you. I learned alot this time around.

[motorhogman]

Fantastic !  My old TC makes different noises every ride.. LOL  My almost 70 year old hearing thinks so anyway.. Glad you made progress there.  I to learned from your thread.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

[Propflux01]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

If you ever have it apart again let me know & I'll send you the correct kit.

[Propflux01]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

I used a brand new set from you (amazon purchase). I pulled the old ones and used them for the other two holes. i usually just use 4 anyway. even though I know only two are required.

If you ever have it apart again let me know & I'll send you the correct kit.

I'll still take them. Never know. I've gotten so fast at it that its not that big a deal to remove the rockers. anymore. I didn't know there was a difference, however.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

[hattitude]

The SE forged supports have bigger bolt holes than stock supports. If you just use twin cam inserts from Brand X they will be, as you found... loose in the holes. In fact I just sent off a special set to a member here a couple of days ago for just that reason.

That was me... Thanks again..!

They fit much better in the forged rocker supports than the standard Rockout inserts did....

[hattitude]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue.

Awesome news..... Congrats...!



I believe I fixed mine too...

I got a chance to put it back together last night and just went for a test ride.. During the ride I thought I heard it a couple times at certain RPMs, but if it was there, it's making about 20% of the noise it did before. ...

Prior to this last tear down, I was sure people in the car next to me could hear the ticking sound... it was embarrassing!!  Now I can barely hear it, if it's actually still there...

My fix:

1)  I clearanced the lower rocker housing per Kevin Baxter's technique. When I reassembled, per HD Street Performance's suggestion, I cheated the rocker housings toward the horn side. FWIW.. I remeasured the clearance, and it was more on the side, but about the same in the front/rear as the clearanced measurements while the housing was centered.

2) I also took my dremel to the rocker covers above the valves and pushrods. I didn't measure as Ohio HD suggests as I didn't have any clay handy, but I didn't take too much off either. Since I suspect the sound may still be there, but greatly reduced, if I ever go into the rockers again, I'll have some clay and actually measure to see if there is a spot that may still be "touching" the covers.

3) I reused the prior used S&S P/R tubes, and S&S quickie pushrods, again adjusted to .041" as Hillside suggests. That didn't fix it last time, but I didn't want to make too many changes so I could have an idea of what may have worked.

Since I'm not embarrassed to ride the bike anymore... I'm calling it good... for now anyways...   

[Propflux01]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

PM Sent, Thanx!!

[Propflux01]

--UPDATE--
I think I fixed my issue.

Awesome news..... Congrats...!



I believe I fixed mine too...

I got a chance to put it back together last night and just went for a test ride.. During the ride I thought I heard it a couple times at certain RPMs, but if it was there, it's making about 20% of the noise it did before. ...

Prior to this last tear down, I was sure people in the car next to me could hear the ticking sound... it was embarrassing!!  Now I can barely hear it, if it's actually still there...

My fix:

1)  I clearanced the lower rocker housing per Kevin Baxter's technique. When I reassembled, per HD Street Performance's suggestion, I cheated the rocker housings toward the horn side. FWIW.. I remeasured the clearance, and it was more on the side, but about the same in the front/rear as the clearanced measurements while the housing was centered.

2) I also took my dremel to the rocker covers above the valves and pushrods. I didn't measure as Ohio HD suggests as I didn't have any clay handy, but I didn't take too much off either. Since I suspect the sound may still be there, but greatly reduced, if I ever go into the rockers again, I'll have some clay and actually measure to see if there is a spot that may still be "touching" the covers.

3) I reused the prior used S&S P/R tubes, and S&S quickie pushrods, again adjusted to .041" as Hillside suggests. That didn't fix it last time, but I didn't want to make too many changes so I could have an idea of what may have worked.

Since I'm not embarrassed to ride the bike anymore... I'm calling it good... for now anyways...   

Outstanding! Just proves there is an issue, and whether or not 'They all do that" they seemingly can be fixed, as well.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

PM me your shipping info & I'll have them on the way 

PM Sent, Thanx!!

On the way, thanks for your support.