1999 flht basic. wiring mess?

[KatalogKarl]

Morning all. So I am looking for some advice on where is it and what is going on electrical wise on a 1999 FLHT (basic) bike that I took on to help another. Guy tells me he rode bike with spot lamps, headlights on and during a 30 minute ride all lights started flickering and bike just died. Bike was not able to be restarted while it was moving. Had to wait 10 minutes and then it restarted. Yes I have looked thru all past post and have gone thru most logical items to see what is or could a problem. Let me explain. I was not riding with Guy, But when I started looking over bike I understand that what most probably occurred was main circuit breaker needed to reset and/or cycling of ignition. Must mention that owner drove to bring me bike was itself a 20 to 30 minute ride but not using spot lamps. Noticed turn signals not working right, left rear lit no flash. Right front rear flash slow. Has aftermarket fog lamps on highway bar that are wired into highbeam of bike and relay wired off main circuit breaker. Bike comes with a cigar lighting that is missing push in lighter end and socket part of lighter is rusted to "Potty mouth". Owner has told me that volt meter when spots were on ran about 10.5 or 11 volts.
For what I have done as of now. Removed and discarded highway aftermarket spot lamps and all relay and wiring off main circuit breaker. disconnected from backside cigar lighter leads and taped off. (outer fairing off) Check turn signal module for working pulses to bulbs yes. Rear signal bulbs(1156) A ok. Fronts both left and right bad or screwed up on post because now signal's and 4 ways work good. started bike and ran for 5-6 minutes with out headlamp connected and got 14.5 on voltmeter. Battery load test of a 385 amp battery is good. So my question I am asking could issues with aftermarket lamps being maybe shorted and signal bulbs with rusted cigar lighter unit be enough that with spot lamps on not enough voltage to keep bike running??
So not to confuse anyone further have anybody done this before ?? I hope pic loads up. Its a jumper from Accessory fuse to ignition fuse. Got a wiring diagram and am about to go thru and see wtf this is done for? so also I ask where is main power relay for this model. Is the one under the outer fairing and on the throttle grip side. I do not know if the or one of the ignition switch wires have been cut or( because if jumper is removed no dash, front running lights or signals)(No alarm installed) if this was done to bypass the bank angle sensor? Owner tells me he has dropped bike and it still ran.. Need some input, as owner is already at $$ limit. Just want to make it safe. And not have it go up in smoke. Hell its got 20k miles on it only. Thanks Karl [attach=0]   [attach=0]     

[Rodman]

There was a circuit breaker recall on mine in 2001, symptoms were everything quit, then it would reset.
Is it EFI?....they need a minimum voltage to operate.
MY heated clothing with all the lights on can drag the voltage gauge down idling at a stop with the brake lights on, but never below battery voltage.

[Dan89flstc]

Is that a wire plugged in to where the fuses go, bridging them together?

If it is, remove it and install the correct amperage rated fuses.

That jumper eliminates the fuse protection for both circuits.

[calif phil]

Is that a wire plugged in to where the fuses go, bridging them together?

If it is, remove it and install the correct amperage rated fuses.

That jumper eliminates the fuse protection for both circuits.

Sure looks like a smoke tester to me. 

[Hossamania]

My first thought was that it had a loose battery cable, or may be losing ground. Does it turn over strongly when started?
That jumper is worrisome. If it does not run with that removed, the cause should be found. It may well be a bank angle sensor bypass, if so, it should be fused. If removed, do the lights come on with ignition, does it turn over when the starter button is pushed?
Replacing the main circuit breaker is not a lot of money.

[smoserx1]

Maybe I can help a little, I have the exact same bike.  It was not subject to the circuit breaker recall, but that does not mean it is foolproof.  And the 1999 FLHT was never offered in an EFI edition.  I am  not surprised you are getting 10.5-11 volts at the front lighting and 14.5 at the battery.  that is about what mine does too.  I have fought voltage drops for as long as I have owned mine.  Clean things up and I can get it to about 13V...for a few months at best.  I have replaced my circuit breaker with a maxi fuse just to avoid the potential circuit breaker issue.  And whatever you do get rid of that bridged fuse connector.  That is a disaster waiting to happen.  No need for a cigar lighter either.Anyway here is one mounting option for a maxi fuse under the right side cover.  You need about a 1/2 inch spacer and a longer screw for the top ignition module mount.  Fuse holder made by littelfuse.
[attach=0]
Red wire comes from starter stud, black wire to silver stud on circuit breaker (with other wiring).  Incoming wire to copper stud on circuit breaker is removed and discarded.

[Hossamania]

What is the running voltage measured at the battery with the headlight on? With spots on?

[KatalogKarl]

Guys. Trying my best to load a picture of wiring page with no luck. Too big. When I was able to get cycle running after removing some garbage with out the headlamp in but with spot and 4 ways on going at about 2.5 or 3k rpms, I had around 14.4 volts. Circuit breaker under seat is working no problems seen.   wiring diagram in black and white sorry. Checked battery voltage from main circuit breaker up to #30 on power relay. !4.1 volts. Turn ignition switch once right and get power on terminal #86 of power relay but no voltage on #87 terminal which is what carries power to gauges, lights and ignition fuses. but power to P&A 10A, CRS/BRK and to Acc15a fuse where jumper was off to feed power to gray ignition. Changed out power relay with another one. Still no power on terminal #87. But am I suppose to now have a HOT or powered Ground on relay#85. with jumper off brake will not crank , lights or even horn work. But front and rear brake lights will come on when depressed. With jumper on bike starts runs and all works. I wonder if its something cut or wrong connection on ignition switch or if other wiring as in starter relays or somewhere else has me loopy. [attach=1] Not sure if file will upload its only 399kb jpeg. Anyhow page 650 of manual under wiring . Almost loaded the whole manual. But i did not let me. One of those days.

[KatalogKarl]

I might want to add, this problem has been around since guy bought bike used from fly by night motorcycle shop here in Florida. Radio did not work so one was put in Aftermarket) and not even the old wire connections were used. the main power and memory for radio is tailed off of power wires on the switched side of power relay. When I seen that I knew I was in for something. Some thoughts or maybe guidance is welcomed but not sure how much do I want to rip apart to find out why this happened or Is?. Thanks guys.. Karl

[smoserx1]

Here is some info about relays:
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
If the relay "clicks" that is an indication it is actuating.  You should then have voltage at terminal 87 IF you also have voltage at terminal 30.  No voltage at 30 indicates an issue upstream electrically speaking.

[smoserx1]

Another thing too on this bike.  With the ign switch on the ACC position (2 clicks to right) horn should work, brake light works and speedometer dial should light (but not tach).  In the run position everything else should work (in this position BOTH the ignition circuit and the accessory circuit are activated).  Good luck.

[smoserx1]

Its a jumper from Accessory fuse to ignition fuse.

I re-read the first post again and looked carefully at the pic.  One more thing and I will be quiet.  It looks like the fuses are both still there and the jumper is combining the ignition and accessory circuits together.  And the bike won't run without the jumper?  While this is not good it is not as potentially disastrous as first thought provided both incoming sides of the fuses are bridged.  What WOULD be dangerous would be bridging the incoming side of one to the exit side of the other.  That would be the same as eliminating the fuse and replacing it with something solid (the old penny in a fuse box concept).  Anyway, with the bike running turn the ignition switch to ACC.  If the engine keeps running this is what is happening (and it does not sound like a bank angle issue to me).  In that case I would be looking  at a problem with the ignition switch (remember in the run position both IGN and ACC are supposed to be hot), and the ignition switch should make this happen, not a bridge wire.

[KatalogKarl]

To All. Thank you. But smoserx1 ya kinda think along the same lines as myself. Not a disastrously way it was bridged it could have been  better done. IMHO. While early in am and looking at diagram and thinking relay grounds are not suppose become (HOT) powered when ignition switch is turned to one click right. I had to look at front fairing wiring and trace wires up to power relay and follow it to ignition switch. I am half way decent with wiring, just sometimes not patient enough. If you can open photo here and Peel it to find Black ground wire that is part of relay ground is cut?? Very well could be reason when testing ground lug on relay it had 13.4 volts. Will let you know what happens when I secure it and test at fuse block. Thanks All. Karl 

[attach=0,msg1385312]

[KatalogKarl]

  Took care of issue in picture and all is well. Power to LINE side of fuses that "jumper wire" was bridging. Have few other things to finish. Thanks All. Karl