Pigtails or Hayden oil fix

[1340evo]

Does it say on the instructions how far up the drain hole to tap and position the heads of the pigtail's?

[Scotty]

Does it say on the instructions how far up the drain hole to tap and position the heads of the pigtail's?

Lubricate the tap and oil passage with a small amount of kerosene or WD-40. Carefully tap
the oil passage to the full depth of the tap threads (approximately 1" deep). Remove the
masking tape from the cylinder extension. Thoroughly clean and dry the tapped hole and
the rest of the oil passage.

That is what the instructions say but as long as only pipe coming out of drain hole then it wont interfere with the base gasket in any way.

[jsachs1]

 Very simple. Tap just enough threads so the threaded fitting, or any sloppy solder work doesn't interfere with the cylinder sitting flat with no gasket.
John

[1340evo]

Yes, has to be deep enough to allow the pipe to bend without stressing the joint or the brass part. Try bend it too close and you'd cause problems. Okay, thanks. Just wondered what they said...

[jsachs1]

The oil drain back hole is NOT at a right angle to the cylinder base. You need to mark the angle of the drain back hole on the spigot, so you can start the tap properly.
John

[1340evo]

Hi John, no its 15 deg or so at an angle... not sure I understand your marking of the spigot.. what you calling the spigot?
Or are you saying to bend them before you screw them in?
All I'm saying above is to allow the head to go into a good depth or when bending you are going to stress the joint.

[Scotty]

A picture is worth a thousand words

[attach=0]

[attach=1]

[1340evo]

Ok, get what you are saying now. I've ground the end of the Tap so it just fits the hole so it will line up. Trying to tap on a angle is not easy so prefer to use a mechanical lead....

[jsachs1]

Also be sure to try the cylinder, with the pig tail installed on the case with no piston. Any resistance or binding HAS to be fixed before final assembly. You should be able to wiggle the cylinder slightly. I run them shorter than stock, which helps in this area.
John

[1340evo]

yes indeed.. I gues you only need 1/4" or so into the case in reality... just to bridge the joint

[1340evo]

Okay, pigtails made.. just wondering how long the head is.. don't want it too long as it will take on heat and creat a hot spot... any idea what thread length you've used as I could always make these a tad shorter

[Scotty]

They look good and will be cooled by oil return and never seen a hot spot when taking them out for a bore cleanup.

[1340evo]

what sort of oil temp might we see as I was fitting them with low strength loctite to fully seal them? or could put some PTFE tape in the gap just in case?

[Scotty]

what sort of oil temp might we see as I was fitting them with low strength loctite to fully seal them? or could put some PTFE tape in the gap just in case?

I use loctite 243 and they were still tight 7 years later

I suspect even loctite 567 would work just as well which is high temp liquid ptfe

On a hot day with a hard run engine I doubt the oil temp goes much over 230F

[1340evo]

Should be fine then, this stuff is 200 deg C....
In and ready to go, cut to the same length as the skirt

[Scotty]

  looks good

[1340evo]

and a 5mm bore thats a good % increase on 3/16"... Assembly tomorrow 

[1340evo]

Not had that much time today, but just put the new pistons, with the new rings, into the newly honed cylinders.. Bloody hell, they are tight.. don't remenber them being that tight before... Its not the pistons, must just be the rings on the hone.
Gapped the rings and they were mid limit so guess its just newness, but quite stiff to move up and down by hand...

Can't imagine doing that in the frame as i've had to use a soft mallet to tap them in...

[Ohio HD]

Did you scrub the bores with soap and water? They need to be so clean a white t-shirt can be run through the cylinder and stay clean.

[1340evo]

No, but ive had cloths through there with pre-paint on to clean them.. and then oiled up.. don't think there is any hone left as it would pick up and mark... but didn't do it the way your saying?

Ok, both pistons back out.. ill re-clean and double check tomorrow....

[kd]

   Laughing with you and not at you.  The cleaning step is soooo important and shortened up by many.  Lots of those end in failures or substandard engines.  Coated piston skirts will imbed with near invisible grit and go to work in the cylinders.  You will not be sorry you went over them again.  Let us know if you detect anything. 

You also don't want wipers that will snag on the super fine hone marks and leave almost undetectable fibers behind.  Magnifying fresh hone marks will show the jagged edges left behind.  Wipe (scrub) with the hone pattern too. As soon as they are soap and water cleaned and then well rinsed, dry and rub oil into it immediately.

[Ohio HD]

Hit Me, I'm A Link...



I'm also a link...

[FXDBI]

https://www.totalseal.com/product/quick-seat      Get some of this and follow the instructions see if you get it right the first time.   Bob

[kd]

   I use a good 2 stroke oil mix liberally on assembly for first start-up protection.

[1340evo]

All stripped, re-cleaned, scrubbed and re-assembled.. better maybe, but not much...
Must just be the pressure of the rings... I can easy lift a pot from the piston pin with no fear of it coming out.. but guess thats the seal you need.. just struck me it was tight..  I've made a short video and TBH it does look harder and sounds horrid.. in real life its maybe not as bad as it looks
thats what running in's all about?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WuJcNpOyAvb93ZduLUduTjeKOKTaWDE/view?usp=sharing

Having now got it together and turning it over from a socket on the output shaft, it does feel normal.. put a squirt of 20/50 in there to keep it all lubricared whilst im turning it over... Its amazing the resistance it offered up on the bench, more than I've seen before, but there again, it is a big bore.. so all good