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Foolish Panhead Clutch Question...

Started by JamLazyAss, May 21, 2021, 02:22:33 PM

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JamLazyAss

I've decided to remove the hand shift / foot clutch off my Pan.
I've installed everything to make it a foot shifter WITH a mouse trap.
I've followed a video from UTube about the installation without success.
Just seems to be a ton of play in the clutch cable.

My question is, do I use the same number of clutch plates for the foot shift vs the hand shift?

I'm at a loss right now as to where to look next.
I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...

drifter

I don't see how the clutch plates will affect the cable slop.  Perhaps a couple more installation/adjustment videos from different people will give you a hint.  Tatro Machine has a video or two on mouse traps, I've seen others, can't remember who, perhaps Lowbrow Customs or Hunting Harleys. 

Fugawee

I don't claim to be a Panhead, or Mouse Trap expert.  But, My Brother and I just did a 5 year Resto-Mod on a 51' Pan with a mouse trap.  Neither of Us had dealt with one before.  Reading the HD Manual on it did nothing for Us, as far as proper adjustment.  Drove us nuts.  We found a Video on You-Tube by a Guy named "Pacific Mike".  We followed His method, and got it after a try, or two.  It now works with 2 fingers.  You may have to search for "Mouse Trap" adjustment on His You-Tube channel.  I hope that this may help You out.

JamLazyAss

I've watched videos from both of these guys.
Pacific Mike's seemed clear and straight forward.
In fact he is the one I tried to follow.
I'll give it another shot over the weekend and see what happens.

Thanks
I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...

HogMike

Quote from: JamLazyAss on May 21, 2021, 02:22:33 PM
I've decided to remove the hand shift / foot clutch off my Pan.
I've installed everything to make it a foot shifter WITH a mouse trap.
I've followed a video from UTube about the installation without success.
Just seems to be a ton of play in the clutch cable.

My question is, do I use the same number of clutch plates for the foot shift vs the hand shift?

I'm at a loss right now as to where to look next.


Set your over center on the mouse trap at just before the break point, the cable adjuster for the hand lever should have just a touch of free play. You should have plenty of adjustment if it's the correct length cable.
Set up your clutch pack, doesn't matter the number of plates or springs.
Set up your long release rod from the mouse trap to the trans arm.
I play with the big spring on the mouse trap and the release rod to get the correct feel and make sure the mouse trap spring will not over power the clutch pack springs.
You'll see with a little trial and error that the booster will enable a very light pull on the handlebar.

If the parts are worn, especially the rod end eye clevis they should be replaced to eliminate slop.
They are not hard to rebuild and are usually worn out after years of use.
JMHO
:missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

JamLazyAss

Quote from: HogMike on May 22, 2021, 05:15:08 AM
Quote from: JamLazyAss on May 21, 2021, 02:22:33 PM
I've decided to remove the hand shift / foot clutch off my Pan.
I've installed everything to make it a foot shifter WITH a mouse trap.
I've followed a video from UTube about the installation without success.
Just seems to be a ton of play in the clutch cable.

My question is, do I use the same number of clutch plates for the foot shift vs the hand shift?

I'm at a loss right now as to where to look next.


Set your over center on the mouse trap at just before the break point, the cable adjuster for the hand lever should have just a touch of free play. You should have plenty of adjustment if it's the correct length cable.
Set up your clutch pack, doesn't matter the number of plates or springs.
Set up your long release rod from the mouse trap to the trans arm.
I play with the big spring on the mouse trap and the release rod to get the correct feel and make sure the mouse trap spring will not over power the clutch pack springs.
You'll see with a little trial and error that the booster will enable a very light pull on the handlebar.

If the parts are worn, especially the rod end eye clevis they should be replaced to eliminate slop.
They are not hard to rebuild and are usually worn out after years of use.
JMHO
:missed:

What do you mean by You should have plenty of adjustment if it's the correct length cable.
The cable I bought is a six inch over due to my handlebars being ten inches higher.
I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...

HogMike

Quote from: JamLazyAss on May 22, 2021, 06:41:23 PM
Quote from: HogMike on May 22, 2021, 05:15:08 AM
Quote from: JamLazyAss on May 21, 2021, 02:22:33 PM
I've decided to remove the hand shift / foot clutch off my Pan.
I've installed everything to make it a foot shifter WITH a mouse trap.
I've followed a video from UTube about the installation without success.
Just seems to be a ton of play in the clutch cable.

My question is, do I use the same number of clutch plates for the foot shift vs the hand shift?

I'm at a loss right now as to where to look next.


Set your over center on the mouse trap at just before the break point, the cable adjuster for the hand lever should have just a touch of free play. You should have plenty of adjustment if it's the correct length cable.
Set up your clutch pack, doesn't matter the number of plates or springs.
Set up your long release rod from the mouse trap to the trans arm.
I play with the big spring on the mouse trap and the release rod to get the correct feel and make sure the mouse trap spring will not over power the clutch pack springs.
You'll see with a little trial and error that the booster will enable a very light pull on the handlebar.

If the parts are worn, especially the rod end eye clevis they should be replaced to eliminate slop.
They are not hard to rebuild and are usually worn out after years of use.
JMHO
:missed:

What do you mean by You should have plenty of adjustment if it's the correct length cable.
The cable I bought is a six inch over due to my handlebars being ten inches higher.


Sorry, didn't know it wasn't a stock setup.
Barnett I think makes a longer cable. That cable (stock) has a specific u shaped bracket on the booster end.
There is an adjuster above that on the outer cover with quite a bit of adjustment. You should be able to set up the break over point on the booster once you have the rest of the system under tension.
Are you using a stock lever? Ball end or early model?
I had one of my pans with a built motor and added clutch plates with stronger springs. My booster would still work great with that setup.
I'll try to get some pictures when I get back tomorrow.
When you say you replaced everything to make it a foot shift bike is that everything back to the transmission?
I think you said ratchet top cover, right?
HOGMIKE
SoCal

HogMike

There is a procedure in the SM for adjusting the clutch up through 1967.
A couple of pages, if you're interested I could take pictures and send them to you.
:smiled:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

JamLazyAss

I took the cable off today and compared it to the old stock one.
It's quite a bit longer. Probably over an inch.
Guess that's why it won't adjust.
Why in the hell do they make them like that I'll never know.
Guess I'll be buying another one.

Thanks HM.
I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...

HogMike

My stock one broke a few years ago (right in my driveway)!
Barnett has the correct stock ones and I think a 6" over one .
They can make any length you want.
:missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

JamLazyAss

Maybe I'll give them a try.
My cable is six over, but the length from the adjuster to the cable end is a good one inch + longer.
The handle bar end of the cable is goofy too.

I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...

JamLazyAss

I finally ordered a six inch over cable manufactured by Barnett last night. June 15th.
We will see... lol
I'm not a proctologist, but I know an asshole when I see one...