Yuassa be kidding....

[apes]

Sooo in April I dug out the Ultra and ordered a new Yuassa battery...6 weeks later it arrived and once installed the bike fired up and ran like a champ.....summer chores prevailed and it didnt get ridden so there it sat in the shop......Yesterday I got it out and hit the starter and NOTHING....dead as a door nail, put it on a charger all day today and it registered 14.95 volts on the meter...reconnected I hit the starter it just clicks and clicks like there isnt enough juice to turn it over.......battery is less that 3 months old......I buffed all the contacts and still the clicking sound like there isnt enough juice...what am I missing...Unfortunately I ordered it from Summit racing and not a local vender...

[Hossamania]

Sounds like it may have discharged too far and is not recovering. A load test might tell the story.
You might try a Battery Minder to try and bring it back.

[Tacocaster]

Not sure what exactly happened to your brand new battery in your situation but the procedure I've always believed in (and its likely only mushroom fodder) is to ensure a newly installed (new) battery undergoes a sustained charge cycle right away. Run it (on the highway) at a 2000+ rpm speed for 30 minutes or more.
Is it proven science? Hardly, but it has never failed me.

I would take your Yuasa and have it load tested for shitzngrins.

[Breeze]

You should do a test for parasitic current draw. A search will turn up threads with details on how to and what amount is normal. I found that my aftermarket amplifier had a draw that killed my battery in two weeks. A simple wire change fixed it.

[Deye76]

Should still be under warranty.

[motorhogman]

If you are looking for a good source Battery Mart worked out very well for me. Bought a Mega Crank 440 cca from them a couple of months ago and so far its looking very good. Security system on tender not on for almost a week and standing voltage still at 13.0. Also cured my hot soak issue. And the price was very good. Think it was $105.00 2 day shipping free.

[smoserx1]

I agree it should be under warranty.  Yuasa should make it good.  You should test for parasitic draw too.  I didn't think my 99 FLHT would have any at all but it has about 630 microamps.  That is nothing to worry about but if you have readings in the milliamp range that is another story.

[apes]

I put it on a battery charger for about 8 hours and still nothing but clicking sound.  I switched to a tender( JR) over night and in the morning the light was still RED but it started.  I left it on the tender for another 5 hours and the light never went to green but still started.....I switched tenders to one that was on another battery on the tractor and showing green ( thinking that the first one was faulty) the one that was on the bike and now on the tractor turned green and the one now on the bike stayed RED.....but still started......I took the bike off all tenders over night and will see what happens when I go out to the shop and try to start it....I suspect it should still be under warrantee as I got it may 15th 2021....

[motorhogman]

I put it on a battery charger for about 8 hours and still nothing but clicking sound.  I switched to a tender( JR) over night and in the morning the light was still RED but it started.  I left it on the tender for another 5 hours and the light never went to green but still started.....I switched tenders to one that was on another battery on the tractor and showing green ( thinking that the first one was faulty) the one that was on the bike and now on the tractor turned green and the one now on the bike stayed RED.....but still started......I took the bike off all tenders over night and will see what happens when I go out to the shop and try to start it....I suspect it should still be under warntee as I got it may 15th 202....

I've never warrantied a shipped battery. Wondering what the cost is or do they cover it. I did have a very good experience with Summit when they sent me the wrong brake rotor. They had the correct one here in 2 days and UPS picked up the wrong one at the house. 

[smoserx1]

Last September I needed a battery and I "accidentally" got a good deal on a Yuasa GYZ32HL.  I say accidentally because the price was quoted wrong, the price I paid was supposed to be for a GYZ20HL.  I had planned to buy an East Penn product, like a DEKA or a Big Crank, etc. but I was swayed by the price, which seemed about $30 too low.  It has been OK, and it is nice not having to use terminal spacers, but performance wise it is no better than what I had.  I still hit that compression bump occasionally, especially in hot weather.  Hope you got your battery issue solved.

[fbn ent]

The pre-charged batteries are not ever supposed to fall below 12.8v on the shelf. It says so on the accompanying sheet. It is entirely possible that it was low at the place you got it from. I always check my AGM batteries before I pay for them.

[apes]

I topped off the battery and took it into O' Rileys to have it checked...the nice girl behind the counter tested it at about 13.00 which I already knew but I wanted it load tested....I asked for that and it was like a deer in the headlights....I decided to bring it back later and get another technician....I havent been back to town to get it load tested.....when on the JR. Battery float it never turns green, stays red...even when switching out the float from another battery that was green.  The charger gets hot, never seems to float off.  I gave it a 6 hour charge to top it off before installing it and I went against my better judgement to buy via mail but it was $70 cheaper through Summit delivered to my door than to order from a bike shop 50 miles away....

[motorhogman]

The pre-charged batteries are not ever supposed to fall below 12.8v on the shelf. It says so on the accompanying sheet. It is entirely possible that it was low at the people you got it from. I always check my AGM batteries before I pay for them.

And I'll add that is not an easy thing to find. Last one I bought at Bats and bulbs we went through several before finding one that had acceptable standing voltage. Some were way down, 12.4/ 12.5. I don't recall what the one was I settled on, may have been 12.7.  It lasted 3 years.. as usual.. Got the deer in the headlights look when I told them they need to put those batteries on a tender..

[starrider]

I've always put the bike on a tender when not ridden... until my buddy the retired
fire captain said he doesn't like to leave his ultra on a tender or use tenders...When
asked why... he said his concern about short circuits. Oh i see...must be thinking fire.
So will charge them during the day and turn off at night. This way my HD battery will
always have a spark ... 

[apes]

Are there AMG specific battery tenders or can  the Deltran JR be used for all batteries?

[smoserx1]

Their website is showing a model with an AGM/Flooded and lithium (LiFeP04) selection, so that should about cover it all.  FWIW the Yuasa GYZ32HL I bought 10 months ago was mail ordered and it registered a little over 12.9 volts right out of the box.  I haven't checked it lately.  Like I said it performs alright (it cranks), but nothing to write home about. 

[Hossamania]

Maybe not very helpful, but I just looked it up, I bought two Duracell batteries in 2016, in their 6th season of use, and both are still working well. They get a Tender or Battery Minder plugged into them on a regular basis. They also get disconnected from the chargers for a time if the bike hasn't been used in a while, including winter storage.

[motorhogman]

Maybe not very helpful, but I just looked it up, I bought two Duracell batteries in 2016, in their 6th season of use, and both are still working well. They get a Tender or Battery Minder plugged into them on a regular basis. They also get disconnected from the chargers for a time if the bike hasn't been used in a while, including winter storage.

also not helpful.. I bought a Duracell in May of 2016.. Then I Replaced that one in July of 2018 for Hot soak issue and here we are July of 2021 and I just replaced that one last month with a Mega Crank. No problem though, the 2016 one is still cranking the lawn tractor but the standing voltage is pretty low (12.4/ 12.5) now after sitting a few days. The one I just took out of the bike will go into the tractor in the fall and probably work for another 3 or 4 years. I'll mention this relative to the OP, the Duracell I just took out would have a standing voltage of 13 after sitting for a couple of hours off the tender following a good ride, yet a gas stop would produce a hot soak slow or no crank like the starter was stopped cold and a voltage drop that was not acceptable.   Both Duracells were kept on tenders full time. I only take the tender off if I'm going for a ride.

[kd]

Could you be blaming the battery for an issue related to the lifters collapsing when sitting hot?

[bump]

I must not be doing it right. My 02 came with an AGM battery, it lasted 9 years. Got a new one from battery place and it lasted close to 9 years again. Still using second one and I don't put it on tender unless sitting for a month or more. Used to put a license plate and a battery in my shovelhead every year. Put an AGM battery in 5 years ago and it still works. I don't keep track of voltages on batteries unless I have a problem of some kind.

[motorhogman]

Could you be blaming the battery for an issue related to the lifters collapsing when sitting hot?

Doubtful in my case. Same symptom for many years, B lifters, a new set of Johnson Hylifts, and currently new set of S&S lifters.  Had one bad Hylift that banged like crazy after sitting for several days. Never had any noises like that when hot. The S&S have been nice and quiet since installed Nov 2020. Over the years 4 different sets of lifters and other than the very 1st OEM battery never had one last more than 5 years.  I'm not saying I couldn't get more than 2 or 3 years out of them I just don't like putting that hot soak strain on everything. I know guys that every gas stop their engine would do that slow crank or stop and then spin over thing and they pay no attention to it. It always bugged me.

[smoserx1]

Could you be blaming the battery for an issue related to the lifters collapsing when sitting hot?

Will lifters with travel limiters help in cases like this?

[Jim Bronson]

I know guys that every gas stop their engine would do that slow crank or stop and then spin over thing and they pay no attention to it. It always bugged me.

Bugged me too, but it doesn't do that on the Mega-Crank (knocks on wood). I recently had to try three gas pumps before I found one that worked. That was three starts within about five minutes. No problem.

[motorhogman]

I know guys that every gas stop their engine would do that slow crank or stop and then spin over thing and they pay no attention to it. It always bugged me.

Bugged me too, but it doesn't do that on the Mega-Crank (knocks on wood). I recently had to try three gas pumps before I found one that worked. That was three starts within about five minutes. No problem.
[/quote

same here Jim, I can make 3 stops doing errand arounds town on a 90 degree day and she spins right over every time. The real test won't come for a couple of years down the road though.  This Mega Crank holds the highest standing volts I've seen even with the security system armed. Also noticed the bikes volt meter ( yea I know it's not accurate, but it's a base line measurement) doesn't drop nearly as much while sitting at a traffic light with directional and brake light on.

[kd]

Could you be blaming the battery for an issue related to the lifters collapsing when sitting hot?

Will lifters with travel limiters help in cases like this?

Travel limiters adjusted 1 or 2 flats off the bottom is what many (including myself) use. The 1 or 2 flats may seem awful tight but when the engine is up to temp the top end grows .040" to ,060" and that increases the available lifter plunger movement.  A typical lifter setting mid way is approx. .100" plus hot growth may be .150" available travel.  You can see the difference it can make in cam timing if it happens.