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Electrical Issue- No Start

Started by DGlide04, August 06, 2021, 06:45:36 PM

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DGlide04

I hope that this is in the correct forum, so here goes.  2004 Road King EFI, 95"' motor, stock electrics all around. 
this past week, I rode out for a few errands and had no issues.  Once I got the bike home, it was turned off and sat until it was time to be put away.  When I went to start the bike to put it away, nothing.  Normally switching the Run/Stop switch to Run leads to the fuel pump priming for a second or two and then hitting the Start switch has the bike start right up.  This time, nothing.   No fuel pump noise and nothing when the Start button his hit.

I've checked all of the fuses, none were blown.  Replaced the fuel pump and starter fuses just in case, no change.  All other electrical systems, lights, turn signals, horn, etc. are powered and work with no problems.  There is 12 v. power to the Run/Stop switch but the bike still won't start.

Like i said all other electrical circuits are working, no fuses were blown and there is power to the Run/Start but no apparent power to the fuel pump.  If anyone has any suggestions on what to try next or where to look, it would be appreciated.

Thanks to all in advance.

barny7655

On start solenode lead check for 12 v, check main lead for 12 vo and is tight , check all battery leads ,check voltage drop to starter when button is pushed should be 10 odd volts if not and is low , battery has failed,
riding since 62, BSA bantum the first bike

guido4198

Quote from: barny7655 on August 06, 2021, 07:07:03 PM
On start solenode lead check for 12 v, check main lead for 12 vo and is tight , check all battery leads ,check voltage drop to starter when button is pushed should be 10 odd volts if not and is low , battery has failed,
All good advice and should be done. Beyond those tests...and BEFORE replacing anything...I would load test the battery or pull the battery from another bike that you KNOW is starting fine, without issues and see what happens.
I've chased starting issues with parts in the past only to find that the problem was the battery and yes...even a brand new HD gelmat battery can be bad and take you down the wrong path if you let yourself ignore the battery as a possible cause "because it's new".  :banghead:

smoserx1

QuoteAll other electrical systems, lights, turn signals, horn, etc. are powered and work with no problems.  There is 12 v. power to the Run/Stop switch but the bike still won't start.

Time to pull out a wiring diagram, see where the fuel pump gets its power and diagnose from there backwards toward the battery.  While a marginal battery can power lights and other low demand stuff and fail to deliver cranking amperage the fact that the fuel pump is not operating suggests to me you have an open circuit somewhere (and it could be a faulty 12V+ or ground).  How does the headlight behave.  Is it bright?  Does it stay the same when the starter button is pressed?  That and a voltage drop at the battery itself when pressing the starter button are poor mans "load tests."  The fuel pump shouldn't consume much current.  See where is gets its power and what else shares power from that point.  Gotta have that diagram.

rigidthumper

I would suspect the system relay- it provides power to the injectors, coil, and fuel pump. The ECM turns it on for two seconds with key on & run/stop in run position (that's when you hear the fuel pump prime initially), and then the ECM waits until it gets a Crank Position Sensor signal to turn it back on.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

wood02

I would plug in a new system relay.  Mine failed and dealership put in a new one.  Charged me $12.00 for the relay.  I carry a spare on the bike...now.

fbn ent

Yep, system relay is suspect. They are available at the auto parts store. I too carry a spare...they're small.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

DGlide04

Thanks for all of the suggestions, work has gotten in the way but am still checking the recommendations.  I'll swap out the relay first, seems like the best place to start.

DGlide04

Good News and Bad News, the good news is that the electrical issue has been found, the bad news is that it looks like the ECM is fried.  Not a difficult replacement but will run a few bucks.  I'm hoping ECM replacement takes care of the issue.  Keep everyone updated once the NYS Rally is over.

smoserx1

Quotethe bad news is that it looks like the ECM is fried

They don't last forever.  Had to replace the one in my 99 after 100K or so.  Also one in a car I had went south (gradually and caused all sorts of drive-ability issues).  Fortunately yours should not require any programming (the one on my bike did not).

brent


DGlide04

Quote from: smoserx1 on August 22, 2021, 04:43:23 AM
Quotethe bad news is that it looks like the ECM is fried

They don't last forever.  Had to replace the one in my 99 after 100K or so.  Also one in a car I had went south (gradually and caused all sorts of drive-ability issues).  Fortunately yours should not require any programming (the one on my bike did not).

I don't think I'll be that lucky, had the HD Race tuner installed with my 95" kit 2 years ago.  Likely will need that reprogrammed.  The fun just keeps on coming.

Coyote

Quote from: DGlide04 on August 22, 2021, 11:26:52 AM
I don't think I'll be that lucky, had the HD Race tuner installed with my 95" kit 2 years ago. Likely will need that reprogrammed. The fun just keeps on coming.

Yes I would think so.