Looking for Suggestions

[Appowner]

Bike is an 08 Softail Custom, FXSTC.  For this discussion all components are OEM.

Front brake is soft (to my liking anyway).  Always has been but it seems to be worse of late.  Bike has always been serviced as scheduled (by miles) but the last 8 years it's sat a lot while I did the Cancer thing.  Still not riding like I use to but still want to have better brakes than I do.

Shocks are soft too but current game plan is to go with Progressive front and rear and lower the bike by 1 inch.

Seeking suggested corrections/improvements up to and including total after market replacement of the front brake system?

[Hossamania]

Thoroughly flush the front brake and tie the handle down overnight.

[kd]

 

Thoroughly flush the front brake and tie the handle down overnight.

  After that many years it is overdue.  First wrap your hand (palm) around the brake hose and apply the brake hard a few times.  If you can feel the pulse at all, consider some new braided line replacements before you flush and bleed the system.

[Hossamania]

Thoroughly flush the front brake and tie the handle down overnight.

  After that many years it is overdue.  First wrap your hand (palm) around the brake hose and apply the brake hard a few times.  If you can feel the pulse at all, consider some new braided line replacements before you flush and bleed the system.

That. If braided is not your preference (black is available), a new stock replacement will work.

[mkd]

Hoss nailed it. drain the fluid ,bleed it best you can, top the fluid off and set the handlebars so the resovour is somewhat level if you can, slow pump the handle and tie it off for the night. after a couple of times it should be good. bulging stock brake lines do allow for some handle movement.

[Sycho01]

Excuse my ignorance. What does tying off the brake lever prove out? The brake line? The master cylinder has already made for a hard brake lever.
         Thanks in advance.

[mkd]

i believe the air bubbles rise to the top and end up in the resevouir .

[Hossamania]

Excuse my ignorance. What does tying off the brake lever prove out? The brake line? The master cylinder has already made for a hard brake lever.
         Thanks in advance.

Are you saying the brake handle is soft and pulling back to the bars? Or the brake handle is hard and the braking power is inadequate?
When was the last time the front brake was flushed and bled?

[rigidthumper]

Tying off the brake lever compresses any air in the system, and smaller bubbles can travel easier to the top given time, where the relief port will let them out into the air cavity after you release the tie and tap the lever.

[Sycho01]

Thanks for the explanation. I have never encountered any problems after bleeding my brakes on a bike. I have encountered some strange things while bleeding 4 and 6 piston brake calipers on cars though.

[hattitude]

Thanks for the explanation. I have never encountered any problems after bleeding my brakes on a bike. I have encountered some strange things while bleeding 4 and 6 piston brake calipers on cars though.

I've never needed to tie the brake lever overnight on my DOT 4 bikes.

On my two softails, however, I have to do it every time. They use DOT 5 (silicone based) brake fluid which has a much greater
propensity to have micro bubbles, causing the soft brake lever feel. Strangely enough, I don't ever recall having the same problem with the rear brakes on those two softails...

[Appowner]

Excuse my ignorance. What does tying off the brake lever prove out? The brake line? The master cylinder has already made for a hard brake lever.
         Thanks in advance.

Are you saying the brake handle is soft and pulling back to the bars? Or the brake handle is hard and the braking power is inadequate?
When was the last time the front brake was flushed and bled?

Both actually.  The handle is soft but then, it always was.  But I've never been able to pull it all the way to the bar.  And the braking action is less than desirable.  I get the feeling it simply isn't up to handling the weight of the bike with me on it (240 pounds).

I forgot in my initial post, the Brake line is braided and some 9 years old from when I had a bunch of different things done.  Not sure whose hose it is, no description on the invoice other than 46" steel brake hose.  For all I know he picked it up from the local dealer and it's an HD part.  But my Indy also wasn't the sort to use inferior parts.  Not saying it couldn't have been.

Last flush and fluid change was when we moved to Michigan, summer of 2017.  I had the bike shipped to the local dealer who stored it for me until we got settled.  And in the meantime I had him go completely through it as far as fluid changes, etc.

Between my cancer and such I no longer do any of my own work.  But I do like to be educated on a matter before I turn it over to my Indy.  Maybe when I have the suspension work done I'll simply have him go through the front brake system, replace that hose whether it needs it or not, better pads and thoroughly clean and flush the system.  Bike has 26k on these parts except the hose.

[kd]

If the hose is good quality it's probably OK.  KISS.  Do the easy stuff first and bleed the system using the "tie the lever down" trick and it is very likely to come around for you.  You can probably do that yourself.   

[Hossamania]

Also look into using a different pad material, clean the rotor well with brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad.
I agree with kd, the line is probably fine.

[Appowner]

Also look into using a different pad material, clean the rotor well with brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad.
I agree with kd, the line is probably fine.

Definitely!  Isn't there a company called Lyndal or similar that makes after market pads?  Maybe chase them down and give them a call.

But right now my game plan is to have my Indy do the brake when he does the suspension.  Should happen in the next few weeks so it's ready for spring.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help.

[Sycho01]

If you change the brake pad material make sure that the new pad is compatible with the rotor that is on the bike or change out both as a set for maximum brake performance. Just my two cents.

[motorhogman]

Also look into using a different pad material, clean the rotor well with brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad.
I agree with kd, the line is probably fine.

Definitely!  Isn't there a company called Lyndal or similar that makes after market pads?  Maybe chase them down and give them a call.

But right now my game plan is to have my Indy do the brake when he does the suspension.  Should happen in the next few weeks so it's ready for spring.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help.

They make quality products. The pads are on the pricy side. I used them when I did a lot of long distance riding. 

[Appowner]

If you change the brake pad material make sure that the new pad is compatible with the rotor that is on the bike or change out both as a set for maximum brake performance. Just my two cents.

Yep!  I'm aware of compatibility issues.

Thanks just the same.

[crock]

The tie your lever down trick works for sure and it costs nothing. I have a 73FLH that had OK front brakes for 4 or 5 years when I found out about the tie the lever down trick (on here by the way thanks guys) Pumped it up held it down an wrapped a bungee around it TIGHT. Next day WOW couldn't believe the difference.

[Hossamania]

The tie your lever down trick works for sure and it costs nothing. I have a 73FLH that had OK front brakes for 4 or 5 years when I found out about the tie the lever down trick (on here by the way thanks guys) Pumped it up held it down an wrapped a bungee around it TIGHT. Next day WOW couldn't believe the difference.

Yes, if you haven't tried it yet, why not?

[Appowner]

I'll mention this trick to my Indy when I talk to him.  See what he says.  If he doesn't use this trick then I'll do it myself when I get the bike back.  Winter project!    At the rate I get things done anymore it might take me all winter.

Thanks all!

[tbird]

I cured the problem on 2 bikes with the same issue, by replacing the master cylinder.