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Fork tube cap installation

Started by fleetmechanic, September 02, 2021, 09:10:47 AM

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fleetmechanic

Replacing a fork seal on one of the 49mm forks for the first time.  I have a clamp mounted in a vise for holding the tube but can't get enough push down even with 2 people and a t-bar with a big allen socket on it because the threads are so fine.  I also have one of the old spring compressors that was made for the cartridges in the early 2000s and it is long enough to put the bottom pin in the slider hole on the bottom and to push down with the compressor but once pushed down to the threads turning the cap causes it to dislodge from the upper clamp.
Are there other techniques for this?

Geezer_Glider

When I did service on them, used the press vertically to compress the spring with the cap, then simply raised the tube up to the cap and turned the tube by hand into the cap for most of the threads.
R Meyer

HogMike

I drilled a hole in a block of wood, cut the wood in half, clamped the wood around the fork tube in the vice, used this forked clamp to pull the cap into the tube and started the threads.
One man operation.
Easy peasy.

:missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

04rkryder

After fighting to get the fork cap on my tubes, I came up with this home made spring compressor. Made from parts of my inner cam bearing removal/installation kit.

hattitude

I would either get the cap on first few tries, or it would take 10 or more... It was a real pain in the hand....

I too use a forked clamp (Bessey double-headed bar clamp) in conjunction with my fork vise and now it's first time every time!


fleetmechanic

I have that fork clamp and the Bessey forked clamp also but the '14-later touring forks have a spacer tube on top of the spring and the Bessey clamp doesn't have enough travel to push the cap  down all the way.  Couldn't find any similar clamps with longer threads.

aussie123

All good advice with using clamp , press etc...

If you have not got any of above in the shed , try this...

With fork in vice ,,1. remove the spring.... 2. Get cap and start to thread on fork top...  3. Find out when cap justs starts to screw onto the fine threads of the fork.... 4. Get a marker , and make a line down from cap and down fork leg.... 5. Reinstall spring ,, line up marks, push cap down and start turning cap.....
Most would push cap down to start with the threads not lined up ,,, with the spring tension, trying to turn cap say half a turn for cap to screw on, is a real PITA....

Might have to have a few go's ,, even better if you have a buddy with you.....



smoserx1

Not sure I fully understood the OP's question but isn't this what Geezer_Glider was talking about?  Took this pic when i  did my forks a few months ago.  At this point just pull up and rotate the fork tube counter-clockwise to start the thread.  Would this work for your forks?
[attach=0,msg1394258]

HogMike

Quote from: fleetmechanic on September 02, 2021, 12:18:16 PM
I have that fork clamp and the Bessey forked clamp also but the '14-later touring forks have a spacer tube on top of the spring and the Bessey clamp doesn't have enough travel to push the cap  down all the way.  Couldn't find any similar clamps with longer threads.

I suppose you could get some all-thread to replace the piece that's there? It would be nice to keep the little swivel foot on the bottom.

Put a 3/8" drive on the end and you could use different size sockets to hold the top nut?

I've got one of those motion pro fork nut sockets that work pretty good.

Just a thought. :missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

jsachs1

Search "Homemade Tools" section of Harley Tech Talk. You may find something that works for you. :wink:
John

Ohio HD

Quote from: 04rkryder on September 02, 2021, 10:01:13 AM
After fighting to get the fork cap on my tubes, I came up with this home made spring compressor. Made from parts of my inner cam bearing removal/installation kit.

I like that idea.     :up:

kd

Quote from: HogMike on September 02, 2021, 07:27:25 PM
Quote from: fleetmechanic on September 02, 2021, 12:18:16 PM
I have that fork clamp and the Bessey forked clamp also but the '14-later touring forks have a spacer tube on top of the spring and the Bessey clamp doesn't have enough travel to push the cap  down all the way.  Couldn't find any similar clamps with longer threads.

I suppose you could get some all-thread to replace the piece that's there? It would be nice to keep the little swivel foot on the bottom.

Put a 3/8" drive on the end and you could use different size sockets to hold the top nut?

I've got one of those motion pro fork nut sockets that work pretty good.

Just a thought. :missed:

I think you'll find the thread is the same as on c-clamps.  Harbor Freight or someone similar should have a long reach c-clamp with a suitable spindle.  If different cutting and welding the longer donor threaded spindle on should work..
KD

Geezer_Glider

Smoserx1 that is exactly what I was talking about!
R Meyer

les

I have the JIMS tool now, but before I had that tool I'd use a combination of the bench vice and a auto garage jack.  I put the cap and hex bit into the vice facing downward.  Then I put a towel on the dish of the garage jack.  I jack the fork assembly upward and compress the spring into the cap and carefully start the threads and make sure not to crossthread.  Once the threads bite, then I'm good to go without the jack.

les

Also, to start the threads in the cap, I grip the tube with my hands and rotate it.  Cap stationary, rotate tube to get threads started.

les

Also, I need to rotate my vice so that one end of the jaws protrudes out far enough from the edge of the bench.  I have the nudge the garage jack as close as I can to the legs of the bench to get the tube as vertical as possible so it matches the threads of the cap.

98fxstc

I don't have a dresser, I have a softail and a Fatbob so this works for me.
I use the lever and fulcrum principle.
I use a bit of 3x2 about 18"long and cut a v channel in the top face which locates under the handlebar. I drill a hole in the face of the underside to locate a rod which pushes the fork cap down when applying pressure to the end of the 3x2.
Push down with one hand and use a wrench in the other to turn the fork tube cap.

Easy to set something up at the end of a bench with the fork tube clamped along side the bench and use the same method.

millerm64

September 06, 2021, 08:08:08 AM #17 Last Edit: September 06, 2021, 08:19:39 AM by millerm64
Some pretty good ideas in this thread.

This is quick and dirty but I have used it several times over the years.  I purchased a Bessey wood clamp and modified it to fit my fork tube.  The wood clamp is oak and doesn't scratch the tube.  The large hole was drilled out with a spade bit and final sized with a wood rasp.  The other bits are just all- thread of any decent size, four nuts/washers and a piece of angle iron.  I use this for multiple steps in assembling a cartridge style fork on one side of my Dyna.  In the picture I have a ratchet/socket on the fork cap and use the nuts on the all thread to wind the angle iron down until it touches the tube and catches the threads.  Start the threading, wind down a little more than you are good to go.

I also use this rig to release the fork caps so I don't have to chase it around on the floor when is pops off. 

[attach=0,msg1394503] 
[attach=1,msg1394503] 
[attach=2,msg1394503]

fleetmechanic

Here's what worked for me.

[attach=0,msg1394603]

millerm64


Pirsch Fire Wagon

I use JIMSĀ® No. 5821 Fork Cap Installation Tool either on the Bike or in a vice.
Tom

fleetmechanic

Now I know about the Jim's tool.  Never thought to check there.  Thanks

04 SE Deuce

Soft OEM spring rate requires a lot of preload to hold bike and rider at ride height.

Stiffer springs require less preload to achieve the same spring work load required to have the same ride height.

This makes is easier to install stiffer springs as they require less pressure at the point where the cap starts to engage the tube threads in addition to not having to keep everything happy while you deal with a bunch of preload.

Harley and cruisers in general use soft springs with more than typically desirable preload...not something the performance side of the suspension industry considers orthodox.