Rivera Pro, soak the plates?

[76shuvlinoff]

Got a new clutch pack for my Rivera Pro that has 34k to 36K miles on it behind my 93" mill. I gotta say, using digital calipers I am not seeing significant wear, in fact it's barely measurable wear between new and old components. The old fibers are smooth and somewhat shiny but I might have gotten away with just roughing them up a bit. This bike barely gets 200 miles a year these days but I have the new stuff so they are going in.

  I've been running Redline MTL in the primary for years but Rivera says Ford Type F non synthetic ATF.  I will at least break it in with that.  I didn't see anything about soaking the discs and plates first  but I probably should.... opinions?

[72fl]

Mark I just changed mine just because it has been in there since I installed it years ago and I put ATF type F back in it as it was still operating at no issue's and relatively clean inside. I still have my install manual and it says ATF Type F so that's what I used and again Shifts like a Hot Knife through Butter, smooooooth. I can look shortly but I'm sure the install manual says to Soak in ATF Type F before install.

Mark here it is:

STeP 7: Soak friction discs in 'F' Type ATF (wipe away
excess before installation) lubricant for a minute prior
to installation. Install steel & friction clutch plates exactly
as they were shipped. Install the .120" steel plate first,
then friction, alternating until all are installed. Never install
2 friction or 2 steel plates together.

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks!

[Hossamania]

I've always used atf with my pro clutch, one nice benefit is that it's much cheaper than Redline or Spectro.

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks!

Headed out to pick up some F ATF.
Project is slightly detoured. I have some really rotted wiring to replace.

[david lee]

why is rivera prefered to a stock. whats the advantage

[76shuvlinoff]

It's a diaphragm clutch. Smoother operation, even releases,  no more worn out pins and dogs. Holds more HP than stock.

Some folks can tune the factory unit to a gnat's ass. I am not one of them and I tried all the gizmos. 5 stud hubs, 52 long rollers, Kevlar disks, "racing" springs and even the ram jett retainer.
I never got it right, all I got was pissed.  Going to a bigger mill made it even worse.

The Rivera was the answer (for me) and I never touched it again until now. I didn't open the primary for clutch issues at all. But ... I'm in there so...

[billbuilds]

     Many moons ago when I first got my Pro Clutch I called Rivera and asked them if it was ok to run their clutch dry. The person I spoke with said yes, that's fine, it was disigned to be run with a belt primary.

[76shuvlinoff]

Yep,
I was YouTubing Rivera clutch stuff and the first video I came to was in an open belt drive.

[76shuvlinoff]

Does anyone have the assembly instructions and or diagram. It sure seems i am doing something wrong. I cannot locate my original paperwork.

Mark

[Ohio HD]

 I think this is them.

http://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/20/20-0516.pdf

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks Brian,
looks like I have it assembled correctly but unless I take one friction disc out (.120") it becomes a solid stack and I have no lever movement. They do say you want .010 to .020" of bow left in the spring and with one disc out i get .030".

Tomorrow I will disassemble it again, clean and measure everything.

Mark

[72fl]

Mark looks like Brian has you covered, I do have my Paperwork if you need anything else.

[billbuilds]

        This is a lousy picture of my original Rivera Pro Clutch instructions where they talk about adjusting the diaphragm spring after a fair amount of clutch usage. If the spring needs additional compression this can be accomplished by adding one or more of the special .020 washers on each of the shouldered nuts (top left pic). If the diaphragm spring adjustment needs less spring compression, this can be accomplished by using one or more of the special .030 washers on the clutch hub stud nuts (top right pic). Botton left pic shows spring with too much compression. Bottom right shows a spring correctly compressed.

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks all.

The new clutch pack came with a thicker steel you are supposed to put at the back of the stack, first in the shell. The old steels measure .047" to .050", this thicker steel measures .120".  I replaced the thick one with a used piece and the clutch went together like it should with all the friction discs and steels. I have not ridden it yet as I have other things that need addressing but the lever feels right now.  I have found I need a new clutch cable as the old one from Barnett is finally frayed. Always something huh?

I will button up the primary, order a clutch cable and move on to the wiring repairs.

[kd]

76, if it's not too late, measure the studs and the depth of the basket.  With this new development and it working better I'm wondering if there is a change in either of those since you bought yours.  Comparing your measurements to something newer (or older) than yours may explain why you have a different size first disc.  In other words, is the .120 disc something that changed to improve the way it was working (or not working)?

[76shuvlinoff]

kd I have it together but if I am understanding you correctly the Rivera does not have a basket and there are no pins, but does re-use the 4 speed shell.  My shell has been in there over 20 years but is not the original so maybe there is a difference between mine and the factory piece.

The replacement Rivera clutch pack is just new steels and friction discs. In comparing the new to old parts the only significant difference I can find is this single thicker steel. Replacing that with a thin one from the old pack took a little over .080" out of the new parts stack.

I am just glad I won't have to run around with one less friction disc.

[capn]

You need that thicker steel against the clutch hub.

[kd]

kd I have it together but if I am understanding you correctly the Rivera does not have a basket and there are no pins, but does re-use the 4 speed shell.  My shell has been in there over 20 years but is not the original so maybe there is a difference between mine and the factory piece.

The replacement Rivera clutch pack is just new steels and friction discs. In comparing the new to old parts the only significant difference I can find is this single thicker steel. Replacing that with a thin one from the old pack took a little over .080" out of the new parts stack.

I am just glad I won't have to run around with one less friction disc.

Yes, I thought it was a basket also.   

[76shuvlinoff]

Could be I am wording it incorrectly.

[capn]

That thick plate is to support the pressure when you release the clutch lever.Not like a stock set up that is supported by the basket.

[Burnout]

The thick steel goes in first to reinforce the back side of the hub. If you look at the back side of the hub it is just a thin piece of aluminum sheet that can deform with the full pressure against it.

[billbuilds]

       The installation instructions that came with my Rivera Pro-Clutch says that it's for models PC-1000-C & PC-1000. They make no mention of a thicker steel going in anywhere in the pak. Step 5 in the instructions doesn't require any action it states "Many clutch baskets have ended up on the scrap heap due to worn or damaged rear friction surface. Rivera Engineering's Pro-Clutch has it's own friction surface allowing those baskets to be resurrected for new life."
      Step 6: Install the Pro-Clutch plates into the basket, friction plate first, then steel, alternating until all plates are installed. 

[76shuvlinoff]

That's confusing. The part I ordered is  1048-0041 says 1936 to 1984 BT. The sheet that came with it said to put thickest steel plate in first then alternate. There was also a steel at the end between the last friction disc and the pressure plate.

Either something has changed or I have the wrong pack installed. I hope it works.

[JW113]

While you're waiting on that new clutch cable, maybe pick up the phone and ask Rivera WTF is up with the thick plate?



-JW