To all you might as well 124 guys

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Every single 117", and 124" here, has the cases machined per S&S instructions, to accept the necked c/bolt supplied from S&S.
Never any issues regarding whatsoever, and we build A TON of those.

[Raleigh111]

Just a couple of notes.  For the top casing bridge bolt, you can get any good grade 8 bolt and I recommend a good ARP 12-point nut.  Mark the hex bolt head with a scribe and put the scribe.  Snug the bolt in the casing with the scribe at 12 o'clock.  Take a marker and color the part of the bolt that needs to be filed down.  In a vice, you can use a small rounded fine hand file to file off the bolt the make the triangular Coke bottle shape.  Don't forget to put all the washers on first so it's in its real position when you color the bolt with the marker.  Even though you use the S&S rubber sealed washers, I still use black RTV high temperature silicone sealant on both ends, which will prevent weeping of oil later on down the road.  I've found that sometimes the S&S rubber washers aren't enough to totally prevent oil weeping.

For the piston jets, use purple loctite (light strength) and torque to specs.

Are you using 2 of the sealed washers one on each end of bolt? Do you any flat washers on the out side of the sealed washers? Trying to figure out how they want it installed but i cant find anything. Thanks.

[les]

Just a couple of notes.  For the top casing bridge bolt, you can get any good grade 8 bolt and I recommend a good ARP 12-point nut.  Mark the hex bolt head with a scribe and put the scribe.  Snug the bolt in the casing with the scribe at 12 o'clock.  Take a marker and color the part of the bolt that needs to be filed down.  In a vice, you can use a small rounded fine hand file to file off the bolt the make the triangular Coke bottle shape.  Don't forget to put all the washers on first so it's in its real position when you color the bolt with the marker.  Even though you use the S&S rubber sealed washers, I still use black RTV high temperature silicone sealant on both ends, which will prevent weeping of oil later on down the road.  I've found that sometimes the S&S rubber washers aren't enough to totally prevent oil weeping.

For the piston jets, use purple loctite (light strength) and torque to specs.

Are you using 2 of the sealed washers one on each end of bolt? Do you any flat washers on the out side of the sealed washers? Trying to figure out how they want it installed but i cant find anything. Thanks.

Exactly.  Sealed washers on both ends, covered by high quality flat washers on top of those.  However, I also use black RTV under the sealed washers (between case and sealed washers). 

[Raleigh111]

Just a couple of notes.  For the top casing bridge bolt, you can get any good grade 8 bolt and I recommend a good ARP 12-point nut.  Mark the hex bolt head with a scribe and put the scribe.  Snug the bolt in the casing with the scribe at 12 o'clock.  Take a marker and color the part of the bolt that needs to be filed down.  In a vice, you can use a small rounded fine hand file to file off the bolt the make the triangular Coke bottle shape.  Don't forget to put all the washers on first so it's in its real position when you color the bolt with the marker.  Even though you use the S&S rubber sealed washers, I still use black RTV high temperature silicone sealant on both ends, which will prevent weeping of oil later on down the road.  I've found that sometimes the S&S rubber washers aren't enough to totally prevent oil weeping.

For the piston jets, use purple loctite (light strength) and torque to specs.

Are you using 2 of the sealed washers one on each end of bolt? Do you any flat washers on the out side of the sealed washers? Trying to figure out how they want it installed but i cant find anything. Thanks.

Exactly.  Sealed washers on both ends, covered by high quality flat washers on top of those.  However, I also use black RTV under the sealed washers (between case and sealed washers).

Got it thanks. Found a pic right after i posted this.

[Raleigh111]

So to set end play on crank without timken just using 2 lefty bearings you have to install comp from what i understand? I installed comp on bench then installed timing gears. Is this acceptable practice and does this look okay?

[attach=0,msg1398852]

[attach=1,msg1398852]

[rigidthumper]

Is the 24009-06 spacer in place? Comp bolt torqued down? You shouldn't be able to rotate the comp freely by hand without engaging the ramps, if it's at all snug.
Should be 1 #8, and 1 # 21, on the outboard side of the sprocket shaft as seen here.

[Raleigh111]

Is the 24009-06 spacer in place? Comp bolt torqued down? You shouldn't be able to rotate the comp freely by hand without engaging the ramps, if it's at all snug.
Should be 1 #8, and 1 # 21, on the outboard side of the sprocket shaft as seen here.

I goofed on one of the spacer springs behind the comp. The last smaller one i had on backwards, no more slope  in comp. The timing gears are not perfect lined up but are they okay?

[Ohio HD]

There can be no more than 0.010" offset with the two sprockets. Harley sells shims, 0.100" to 0.150" to correct the cam sprocket alignment. Check the manual, I'm pretty sure that 0.010" is the limit.

[Raleigh111]

There can be no more than 0.010" offset with the two sprockets. Harley sells shims, 0.100" to 0.150" to correct the cam sprocket alignment. Check the manual, I'm pretty sure that 0.010" is the limit.

Thanks Right on the edge, .130 in now and i can slip a .010 feeler in there, .015 drags, ordered .140 , thanks again ohio.